Is it possible to increase the engine idle speed slightly(50-100 rpm) with the throttle stop on the throttle body or do I need to get the chip reburned for this. If I can bump it up abit without any problems such as the idle control solenoid going nuts then I'll go that route. Blower cavitation is the problem on my tight a$$ Eaton. Thanks Jeff

 

I had the same problem.
I just sent my chip back for a reburn.

 

STOP! before you start messing with adjustments under your hood! i have always been told by mechanics and many other people to never ever mess with the idle adjustments on these newer cars and trucks. its something thats set from the factory and you should not mess with it. i think its called Minimum Idle Adjustment? someone who knows more should step in here, Sal,JL,Spiro,JDM ? im just passing on what i have always been told Mike

 

Correct, you don't really want to mess with the throttle body adjustment. You can have the idle raised in the chip, for both park/neutral and in gear.

 

Ok thanks guys.....that is kind of what I thought. Looks like another reburn for the chip.....hey Sal anything new and improved for the 01's? Jeff

 

Jeff
The reason why is that it throws the minimum closed throttle voltage out of adjustment on the throttle position sensor.

The TPS is not adjustable on these fords so if you open the throttle blades the computer will see a different voltage than it needs to see and you might get a SES light.

Also if you open the throttle blade the computer might tell the idle air control motor to shut off air supply and you will end up with the same idle anyway. At least I think so.
Dale
P.S. What do mean by" Blower Cavitation", and how is it effecting you idle, just currious.

 

Try getting a Torque converter. It helps on acceleration and other stuff. The Magazine 'Truckin' did an article about it and it brought the 1/4 mile times of a white L down by .47 secs.

They used ProTorque's torque converter

www.protorque.com

 

Dale the cavitation that I'm talking about is a slight rattle noise only at idle more so in gear. From what I understand the 01 blowers have a 20 thousandths closer tolerance than 99/00's. I think it's for a little better efficiency. Anyway I guess 1 in 5 01's make this noise. By raising the idle 50/100 rpms the cavitation noise is gone. I'm not sure but maybe few more miles whould take care of it anyway.

 

Hey Jeff,

I know this is an ancient thread, but...

Did you ever get your "cavitation" issue resolved? I am getting the same noise on my '01 after installing a 4# lower. I have been checking out threads on the subject to base my decision on. Since I don't have a chip, right now I am leaning towards adjusting the throttle stop screw to get about 100 more RPMs then re-adjusting the TPS for .98 VDC.

Sammy

 

Actually, when I had my mustang (93), there was a procedure you could go through where you clear out the computer (diconnect battery, etc), disconnect the IAC and start the car with NO accessories on...Then, use the throttle screw to adjust the idle rpm being careful not to go over .99v (othere wise you had to slot and adjust the tps. Than, turn car off, turn all accesories on and start the car back up with the IAC on. This forced the EEC to relearn the idle. seemed to work for me after I put a cam in the car. This procedure if I am not mistaken was from Chris Johnson's website.

Tom

 

At the time I had a 2lber and had my idle raised 50/100 rpms through the chip. That stopped the rattle. Now I have a 6lber and stock idle on the chip and no noise...You could raise your idle some and see how it is.

 

 

Not to play Devil's advocate here! I pulled my T-body and made the cut in the adjustment screw. Put it back on, pulled the t/p sensor. Sloted the sensor holes enough to adjust t/p voltage while my NGS was hooked up.

Started the truck and increased the RPM by 77-85 in drive and adjusted the t/p voltage, no problems. No chip and helped on the cavitation noise. I too have it. My truck ran lower then average RPM and it was loud. No SES light. No problem with the ISC or morning cold starts.

You do have some room to improve without getting a chip. I do recomend that if you already have a chip. Have the tuner make the adjustment. If you plan on not running a chip you can use the adjustment screw.

Had my truck at the dealer the last few days. Mod friendly and the Tech there had an NGS on and didn't catch it. LOL......17K on the truck and the fuel pump took a chit....

 

Is that what that is? Many techs and I could not solve the problem of my rough idle. It is exactly as you explain. If I raise the idle with my foot by about 50-100 rpms it goes away. Is a chip the only way to solve this? I had denso's installed and the problem seemed to temporarily go away, but now its back and more annoying than ever....

Jon