On the backside of the calipers are 2 sets of bolts. One set takes a 6mm hex key the other takes a much larger socket.

Which are the appropriate to remove to change pads ? What are the 6mm hex bolts with rubber boots for ?

I need to get new pads soon. What is the current consensus of the best after market pad ?

Thanks in advance for taking the time with all the questions

Doug

 

Doug, the nex bolts are most likely your caliper slides. Ford usually uses 7mm hex or torx, so you might want to double check that real good. Taking those off will remove the caliper, and allow you to replace the pads. The larger bolts hold the caliper mount on, and you have to remove the mount to get the rotor off (I know you are going to have it cut :-) ). As for pads, I don't have any suggestions, I use Ford stuff.

 

i think people reported good results with the ceramic NAPA pads..
i didn't do a search, but i'm sure someone posted a part number?

oh, when you do change them, take some pics for us to follow.

brooks

 

IBFast gave the NAPA no. as CMX7576.

dAN

 

I just bought a set from NAPA (on line) for ~ $76 + shipping. They were delivered to my house in 5 working days:-)
Cheers,

...Dwight...

 

I used Bendix SUV pads and have been very happy. They dust the wheels a lot though.

http://www.bendixbrakes.com/en_us/product/suv.html

You'll need to purchase the pads, a tube of slide pin grease, FRESH brake fluid and a set of front grease seals. Resurface the rotors and repack the bearings (not too much). It took me ~1 1/2 hours at my brother's shop at school (I take his class, he guarantees me an 'A' if I give him a positive end-of semester evaluation!).

As Lightning Tuner said, the caliper slide bolts require a #45(?) TORX driver to remove (don't use an Allen wrench). The hex bolts then allow the caliper holder to come off which allows the rotor to be removed. Use some tie wire to support the caliper as you don't want to stress the rubber brake line. When reinstalling the rotor, snug up the nut then back off ~1/6 turn (one 'flat') until the cotter pin hole lines up with the retainer. Pinch-off the brake line and crack the bleeder so that brake fluid doesn't get pushed back to the master cylinder. Pull back the accordion boots and lube the caliper slide pins and sleeves. Keep the pads and rotor clean during reassembly. Have someone pump up the brakes and hold pressure while you bleed them. Make sure the bleeder is closed when they lift their foot or you may suck in air.

It took several stops for the pads to seat properly. Try not to overheat them until they are well broken-in..

 

how do you tell if it is time to change the pads.. i dont want to hear the grinding sound to remind me..
is there a certain thickness when they need to be done?

 

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