I'm thinkin head gasket but I just want your guys opinion. This thing runs like raped ape. The engine has got all the power, it idles smooth like a sewing machine. Except when hits operating temps the cooling system has all this pressure, it even pushes air through the reservoir cap which is a stock 16lbs. The pressure never goes away, even when it's been sitting cold overnight. No miss fires and running great. I should be taking the plugs out in a few days and maybe they will tell me more. What do you guys think???

 

hydrocarbon test and compression test to verify if it is one of the head gaskets

 

They always run their best "raped ape" just before they blow. Do the tests as suggested. My guess is, you have finally stretched the head bolts enough to leak. Logic suggests that pretty much the only way to get air in a cooling system is from the combustion chamber.

I would take it easy on the girl until I got this resolved.

 

Compression test I can do but I never did a hydrocarbon test. I can tell you that the resevoir is not clear anymore but grey. I need this like a hole in the head now. It's a shame cause it still runs strong with a 112k on the clock. I added 1 1/2 gallons of distilled wated the other day and the guage never showed hot.

 

Okay, I can get the hydrocarbon test kit from autozone. Hey is it possible to R&R the heads with motor in the truck? Anybody have experiance?

 

you can do them with the motor still in the truck....the back bolts will be tricky though....you need them in the back holes when the head is removed or set back into place....

 

Ok, so far I,ve flushed the system and it grays up pretty quick. It's not oil but more like unburned fuel. I'm convinced that the soda like bubbles coming up with the thermostat open are combustion gases. I'm gonna start dismantling it soon but for right now it runs perfect with the cap loose. I got a 5 mile commute to work. It'll be the winter project. If anyone would like to donate to the "Promar Lightning upgrade longblock to JimKalfakis" fund, it would greatly be appreciated. Thanks guys.

 

just a FYI.....the head studs bolts are torque to yield...meaning one time use only

it would be wise to upgrade to some ARP head studs/bolts at the time when you decide to work on it....instead of getting new Ford stock oem ones....

 

The heads do come off with the engine in still. That is how mine has been sitting for the past 2 months while I order parts. Haha Pull the wheel well liners for easier access. And like suggested get ARP when going back together. All the bolts should pull out except the back 2 on the heads. Those come out with the head because of the firewall.