I put the line mod valve in last night and I can't believe the difference it made over what I had. Now when it shifts, I get lots of rubber and the speedo literally jumps 10 mph with each gear change. This would have to help reduce ET's yet I don't recall reading much about it - anyone who's done it know by how much? With this and my new flip chip, I think I'm in the 12's now.

 

gforce,

I share your thoughts and issues as this mod will be done as soon as I can pick up a 4x4 pan, filter, and gasket.

I have a couple of questions though:

1. Did JDM adjust the line pressures to compensate for the valve?

2. Any tips on the install? Diablo has a good how-to in their website but curious nonetheless.

3. What is the severity of low rpm shifts?


Thanks.

 

Bob, I can only answer one question that you asked gforce. The shifts at low rpms are absolutely like stock. The shifts at half throttle are a little firmer, quicker. The shifts at 3/4 throttle are nice and quick, with some firmness. The shifts at WOT are awesome! Bangs into gear. Jumps into gear! Chirps everytime 1st to 2nd and probably 2nd to 3rd, but i can't hear them, due to the whine of the sc.
Dave

 

i have a 2001, but I dont losse any boost form gear to gear. Do I still need to do the mod valve.

I have the JL chip(street) Stage II air, Cold
I run 8.7 all the at the 1/8 at 82 mph in tampa fl. temp 95 . yes very humid!!

so do you still need to do the job with the 2001?

stock it run 9.1-9.3 at 79 mph

thax for the help

 

Bob,

I'll respond to your questions in the order you asked.

1. No, I didn't have them compensate for the shifts in the chip's programs. So far, so good.

2. Yeah, get a HUGE drain pan. That fluid went everywhere but in the bucket. Especially when the d*mn pan all of a sudden let go when I wasn't expecting it and bathed my chest and face in very warm oil. The tools needed are an 8mm and 10mm socket and needle nose pliers. The 10mm removes the pan and the 8mm & 10mm removes the valve body. Then needle nose to remove the valve retaining clip. This job is incredibly easy, but messy. I also used vice grips and an aluminum roofing nail to "catch" and pull out the filter's oil seal when it was stuck in the hole.

3. SVTDAVE answered just like I would've on the severity of the shifts.

I just got back from lunch where I put the flip chip in "race" mode for the first time. (I just got the chip the other day) I almost wrecked on the 1-2 shift. I was going around a slight curve and when it shifted, the back end didn't just chirp, it spun out and the back end came around a little. The race mode is a bit much for the street and it chirps on shifts at 1/2 throttle or less.

Has anyone got an idea of how many .10's shift kits are worth?

 

I got a solid 1/2 second from my shift kit, I don't think I need to tell anyone which one I use.

G

 

Speedin Bob,
Dont pick up the gasket, cause the reusable one already on your truck will work with the deeper pan. I have the pan and the line mod valve already done. Jim told me that the line mod valve will not hurt the trans, And I did not have the chip he gave me reburned for the line mod valve. And even without the reburn the low rpm shifts are real nice. But if you dont like firm shifts you may want it reburned. The sucker scratches 2nd gear at 3/4 throttle in 90 degree heat.

 

I have the line valve mod installed as well. The 1 - 2 & 2 - 3 shifts are noticeably better at all throttle responses. At WOT, the difference is tremendous and netted me a solid .10 in the 1/8 and .15 in the 1/4. These differences were noted with the JL chip / Stage II Ram Air and PSP Pulley on stock F-1's.
My only complaint about the line valve mod, is the EXTREMELY hard shift from 3rd to OD at anything over 1/2 throttle. This has to be real hard on U-joints, and probably needs to be adjusted by your Chip Tuner. JL made some changes to my Diablo chip and now it is perfect.
As always...."individual results may vary"


Frank
Best 1/8 (so far) 8.37 / 84MPH
Best 1/4 (so far) 13.23 / 104MPH
This on F-1's & ARE II Lid/wing