I got mine today via UPS and tried it out. What weight should I input to do the HP calculation? I tried 5100 Lbs. and got a VERY low number (301 HP). The book said the Gtech has to point DIRECTLY forward to get an accurate reading. Maybe that was my problem. I did the 0-60 time and got 5.7 seconds. I have not done the 1/4 mile part because of a lack of empty road, but I will. What am I doing wrong? What kind of numbers are you guys getting. The temperature was 91 degrees when I did the test.

 

You have to make sure it's level by using the built in leveling device with the +1 or -1 adjusments. Make sure it's zero. 4800-4900 should get you close as far as weight goes. Again, it's critical that you level it.

 

I know the 1/4 mile ET is really close (about a tenth) and the speed is a little high because it calculates it differently (about 6 mph high). I only tried the HP once and I had a passenger. Said 377 which I think is a tad high considering all I have is a chip and 90 mm mass air system.

 

My pops gave me one for my B-day back in December, and the whole 45 mile drive back to my house was done in 0-60 and 1/4 mile sprints! At the time, the truck was bone stock; the best I could muster if I remember right was a ~4.5 sec 0-60 and 13.01 1/4. I'm still not sure how accurate I think those #'s are, but it was only 12 degrees outside, so its *possible*...but not likely. It sure is/was fun though. Red2K#1554: my best HP reading at the time with a weight of 4900lbs was also 377hp...I wonder if this is like that computer mustang drag racing game that someone posted a link to a while back that had a *set* best ET you could get no matter how hard you tried. With my current mods in not as cold weather (~55-60), I've lowered my 0-60 time to 4.30 sec, but haven't touched the 1/4 time yet (now ~13.3). As has been said before, the results the GTech gives you might not be that *accurate*, but if you do them on the same stretch of road and make sure its leveled out, the results should at least be *consistent* from run to run, to give you an idea of what works best (launch rpms etc).

I'm getting closer to actually having the ***** to cut my GTech cord and hardwiring it into my overhead console...probably another week or two away. I'll post the results (good or bad) if that happens. later...

 

You can get your tuck weighed at a lot of different places. Try the drag strip (they have scales), feed mills (if you are near one they will probably even do it for free if your in a rural area, mine did), or even a truck stop. The more accurate the weight you enter the better your numbers will be (closer to actual, not higher). Also, don't forget to add the weight of yourself into the total truck weight.

Later,
Roger

 

Exactly what everyone has said so far. Also, Ford advertises the curb weight at 4,670 lbs. This is with all fluids, a full tank of gas, all factory accessories installed and no driver. Mine weighed in at 4,660 lbs at a scale just calibrated by the Dept. of Agriculture with a full tank.

Keep in mind that the full tank of gas weighs 175 pounds. Each 1/4 graduation on the gas gauge is about 44 pounds. So, if you only have 1/8 tank of gas, your missing 154 lbs of the 175 you had and have to subtract that from the original 4,670. Then, add your weight and any passengers or junk back on. If you figure heavy, the gtech thinks you have more power than you really do, so you'll be pleasantly surprised until you see what a real dyno reports. BTW, mine was within 3 hp of the dyno when I tested for a stock baseline last year. 331 dyno, 335 gtech back to back.

Hope this helps.