Paging William: Intercooler Wiring Question
William, another intercooler question. You helped me find the fuse last time I had trouble. Well, I was showing a buddy the odd fuses in the underhood fusebox and I had my finger on the intercooler fuse and wiggled it while the engine was running. **POOF** Damn thing blows out. Can't replace it, it blows when the pump comes on about 30 seconds after you start engine. My single hot wire to the intercooler pump runs the pump fine. I have an in line 20amp fuse in that with no problems. That leaves something grounding between the pump and their fuse. I know the pump doesn't start for about 30 seconds after you start engine so I would guess there's some kind of timer relay on it. Could that be what's grounding and where is it located?
Jeff, I just ran a hot wire (with inline fuse and switch) down to the pump and spliced in near the pump. It has been mentioned in other threads something about backfeeding, not sure what but I only run it with the switch when the engine and key is off.
Originally posted by 4D THNDR
Jeff, I just ran a hot wire (with inline fuse and switch) down to the pump and spliced in near the pump. It has been mentioned in other threads something about backfeeding, not sure what but I only run it with the switch when the engine and key is off.
Jeff, I just ran a hot wire (with inline fuse and switch) down to the pump and spliced in near the pump. It has been mentioned in other threads something about backfeeding, not sure what but I only run it with the switch when the engine and key is off.
Intercooler Relay wiring
Shoot me an email and I'll scan a diagram for you to help you out. I work nights so it wont be until about 12:45 CST until I'm able to return you email. Address is messer@htc.net
Bill
Bill
Intercooler Relay wiring
Jeff if you can find out which leg is grounding on the Fuse #106 (20amp) OG/YE will have power when the cooler relay is powered. The PCM I believe is what grounds the relay for the pump to run. Unless you spliced into the ground side of the PCM which would definately cause your problem. Did it work fine before you wiggled the fuse? If so the problem could lay in the Battery Juction Box. Like I said shoot me an email and we'll see what we can figure out.
Later,
Bill
Later,
Bill
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Yeah, worked fine for over a month. Just wiggled the fuse and poof. The dealer is looking at it now. He found if you turn on the switch and then start it the fuse doesn't blow until you turn my switch off. It's one of those lighted switchs that require a ground to light up so I told him to unplug the ground and see if it still blows the fuse. That was 4 hours ago and he hasn't called back 
BTW, I'm at work so I'll shoot you an e-mail when I get home after 18:00 EDT.

BTW, I'm at work so I'll shoot you an e-mail when I get home after 18:00 EDT.
Jeff, cost $230 to get it repaired(mostly labor). I didn't get a chance to talk with the tech to find out what happened and he probably won't be working today. Going on vacation tonite to a internet access deprived area so I don't know when I'll be able to reply the info.
William, couldn't access the board last nite so I couldn't get your e-mail address. Like I said above I'll be going out of town and it is repaired now but thanks for trying.
William, couldn't access the board last nite so I couldn't get your e-mail address. Like I said above I'll be going out of town and it is repaired now but thanks for trying.
The dealer is closed today so I'm thinking of getting 2 ON-OFF-ON switches and wiring it so either my hot and ground are supplying the pump or Ford's hot and ground are. That way there will never be a conflict with the two.


