My 2001 is about to turn 50, and I was curious about what kind of services should be performed on the vehicle. I'm gonna clean the air filter and flush the diff fluid (gasket is leaking like a siv). While I'm at it, I'm upgrading to the LFP rearend girdle for ease of servicing, and it looks tough. Is there anything else recommended, outside of regular maintenance? I have never repaced the fuel filter, cleaned the IC, or checked the plugs. The truck runs fine, but I just want to freshen things up a bit. It's modded with the basics: 4lb lower, single blade TB, cold air, superchip flip, 4.10 rearend, Bassani exhaust, lowered on 20's. Thanks for any advice. I've already learned so much on this forum.

 

CHANGE THE FUEL FILTER! It is one of the most important maintenance items in our performance application. I reccomend every second oil change.
Jim

 

Fuel filter is so easy to do. You are asking for trouble by not changing it.

Cleaning the IC is up to you. Mine was filthy. Do you have a oil seperator on it? If you don't...get one.

I'll bet you have a loose spark plug if you haven't checked them in a long time. That's how I blew a plug out. There were 2 others waiting to lauch as they were loose.

 

Ok, fuel filter is on the top of my list. If I want to change plugs, are there any suggestions? Brand, temp, gap? I do not have an oil separator, and I have noticed oil in my TB, intake boot and pipe. I'm sure that the IC could use a cleaning. Seems like a daunting task, but worth it i'm sure. Once it's clean I want to ensure that it stays that way. So whats the best way to keep oil out of the intake system without compromising crankcase ventilation? There seems to be several ways to do this, but what are the pros and cons of each method? Reversability is a must, for smog purposes every 2 yrs.

 

I noticed the low post count, Damon. A search can answer your questions, as they have been discussed numerous times.

NKG TR6s are the most recommended plugs for a 4 lb lower.

The L&S separator is the most recommended method of controlling oil while retaining PCV functionality.

Neither of these changes should affect your ability to get the truck smogged.

 

Thanks Tim. Looks like the L&S is the way to go, although most costly. Worth it I guess. Thanks again. BTW, with the setup I have, I'm running 13.5's @ 101-103 with low .500 r/t's. This is on 20" Falkens. Some guys at the track think I should be faster. Previous owner ran 12.89 on slicks. Do these #'s sound right?

 

Can't help you much on the drag times, but you should be faster.

The only time I did a drag race was at your home track - Sacramento Speedway -- and I did a sub-14 run (13.92 @ 100.3) bone stock in August heat.

 

Hey, I recognize that palce! Thanks anyway. Hopefully I can pull a couple of tenths with plugs, filter, and I/C cleaning.

 

I have no problem passing the smog test in NY. You should have no problem passing either. What mods do you have. I've ran 12.4@108 with the basic mods. 4#, full exhaust, sbtb, cone filter, tr6's, et streets, 3.55 rear.

If your intercooler is dirty...you are going to be slower.

 

99 bolt- I have much the same mods as you but with 4.10's. I will be upgrading to TR6's, and I expect to be faster with a clean IC. Especially with the heat we have in Sacramento.

 

It's about time to flush the transmission, too.

 

Trans flush, hmm. So drain tranny, change filter, then refill. That it? Sounds easy enough. Thanks Odin's. R u in Stockton (Hammer Lane)?

 

No. I'm in NC.

Take it to a shop and have them flush it for you. They hook it to a machine and draw out the old fluid where it enters the cooler, and then pump new fluid in through the line leaving the cooler. It get's even the fluid from the torque converter flushed out. You won't be able to get very much out by just draining it.

 

Oh, so not the sort of thing I can do on my own? Ok, I'll call a few shops in town and get a price. Thanks for the recommendations.