I dunno if anyone else has done this or not... I got tired of not being able to find the cupholders in the dark (since the windows were tinted it is really bad) so I installed 2 green LED's in the back of the cup holders. If I have the ashtray in (I use it to stor change) and the lid is closed, you can't see the light or the other cup holder, so I took the cupholder out and made my own light. I cut the bulb holder off and attached the 2 LED's, so that they will dim/come on with the rest of the lights. Did this to my dad's F350 and my Uncle's Explorer, and I still can't see why Ford doesn't do something this easy. If anyone wants pics of the LED's in action, I can post some.

Later,
Roger

 

Roger

Sounds like a cool mod. Why dont you put togther a How - To so we can see the how where details.

Doug

 

z96Cobra
Ya I wouls love to see a how to also, I would love to do something like it on my truck too.

Thanks
Don

------------------
SILVER 2001 LIGHTNING
Built 02/14/01
Picked up 03/03/01
Sportmasters tonneau
Bedrug
Alpine head unit and six disk changer.
JL Audio speakers
Magnaflow muffler
JDM BigMouth Filter.

http://members.tripod.com/donf150/Welcome/id7.html

 

Roger,

Please do post a How-to. Sounds like a cool mod.

Thanks,
James

 

Sounds cool to me also. I'd like to see it and hear how you did it.

------------------
Stevie-Ray
00 Red L #3460
JL Stage 2 Ram Air
Clear tails
Custom mats
ARE LSII
Bedrug
Keypad entry
Homedics Back Expert 2000

 

I'll try to get some pics and a how to up in the morning when I get home from work.

Later,
Roger

 

Get in touch with Firezapper he is the one that started doing this last year I think. I also think that there is a thing in the appearance section, check it out. -steve

------------------


Dedicated to Dale Earnhardt, Gone but not Forgotten......

• -1999 Ford F-150 Supercab Flareside ORP
• -4.6 Liter V-8, Auto, 3.55 LS Rear
• -Deep Wedgewood Blue
• -Flowmaster Delta Flow Series 40 single 2.5" inlet w/dual 2.5" outlets
• -Two 18" Adcar Stainless Steel Exhaust Tips
• -Airforce 1 Performance Intake
• -Lund Lighted Moon Visor (painted)
• -Lund Interceptor Bug Guard (painted)
• -Deflecta-Shield Window Rain Guards (painted)
• -Delecta-Shield Slotted Tail Light Covers (painted)
• -Manik Grille Guard
• -Ford Factory Cab Steps
• -Extang Soft Bed Cover
• -Ford Lighted Ovals Front and Back
• -Tinted Windows (5% totally illegal)
• -Pioneer P725R CD Player w/Flip Face Head Unit
• -Superwhite Headlight Bulbs (from Online Store)
• -K&N Air Filter
• -Air Box Silencer Removed
• -Tail Light Modification
• -Lots of Blue Wire Loom Under Hood
• -Cranked Torsion Bars to Level Truck Out

In Loving Memory of Craig W. Menth Sr.



http://njf150truckclub.homestead.com/index.html
www.my-f150.com/steveo
steveo@f150fanatic.com

 

I didn't get a chance to do the how-to this morning because a friend and fellow EMT was involved in a really bad accident. Head on and the other driver did not make it. I will try again in the morning. I almost lost the L on the way to the scene on an iced over bridge. 80' last week and rain and snow this week really sucks.

Later,
Roger

 

Ok, here is a quick how-to, it is really easy to do. All you need is some wire (two 6" pieces of red and black should do it) and strippers, bullet connectors, butt connectors, electrical tape, and some green (or other color if you want) 12 volt LED's from Radio Shack (or Tandy, if they are still called that in other areas ). When I did my dad and uncle's trucks last year, I used the LED's that fit a 19/32" hole. They were out of these when I did my L so I used the 13/64" ones. They already have resistors and small lengths of wire on them, so this speeds things up a lot. **Optional** A multi-tester can be handy, and you may want some wire taps too.


1. Pull the cup holder out till it stops.

2. Look under the holder for two "tabs" you will have to pull down on to get the holder to pull out of the dash. The tabs are near the rails that the holder slides on. You MAY be able to stick a screwdriver in from the top of the holder and pry them down, but I didn't try it that way.

3. Twist the factory bulb holder so it will pop out of the holder.

4. Drill the holder from the back side with the proper sized bit and then mount the LED's in the holder (they come with nuts to hold them in).

5. Now you need to connect the red wires together and then connect them to the other 6" length of red wire. You can either use butt connectors, bullet connectors, or electrical tape to do this (butt connectors would be best IMHO). Now do the same for the black wires.

6. Use a male bullet connector on the other end of the 6" red wire and a female on the end of the black wire (this way you can't hook 'em up backwards to the factory wires).

7. Now you should have the "assembly" done and you need to go to the truck for the rest.

8. Now, you can do this next part one of two ways. Either cut the bulb holder off and strip the ends of the wires, or use some wire taps to tap into the wires (it all depends on if you want to still be able to use the factory "white" bulb anymore). I just cut the bulb holder off and left a little bit of wire on it so that I can hook it back on if I should ever need to.

9. Now you need to turn the parking lights on and either touch the wires from the new LED's to the factory wires to find out the polarity, or use a multi-tester. I had my tester, but it was quicker to just touch the wires (the LED's will only work one way, so make sure you know which factory wire is hot).

10. Turn the parking lights off... No need to blow any fuses...

11. Now attach the other two bullet connectors to the proper wires and then attach them to the "cup holder assembly".

12. With all of the wires connected, turn the lights on to make sure that everything works. If it does (it will!!!) slap everything back into the dash and you are all set!

Pictures below show my LED's. I have an extra hole in each cup holder because I tried some other LED's first, which were a larger size. I didn't like them so I took 'em out.









Later,
Roger