Peter B,

Even with a 2001 box you will need a K&N and another hole in the bottom of the box to get enough air in. As I've stated before the box has plenty of volume but you have to get the air in. I made 12# of boost with my stock airbox which was more than anybody at the track made with a filter kit. I also ran faster than they did. 13.27 @ 103.4 with JDM chip, modified stock airbox and Magnaflow muffler. The 90 mm MAF, now that's a reason to put a cone filter on a 99-00 which is what I did. The blower whine almost sounded too loud at first but I'm definitely getting use to it.


Twisted 99,

Don't worry about the crow it's always a learning experience with these truck and figuring out what they like. You just learned to matchup you intake components so there won't be a bottleneck. Live and Learn.

Dale,

The filter size is 12 7/8" by 7 5/8". I've got the measurements I took right in front of me on a sheet of paper with various other notes and part #'s on it. That's 98.17 Sq. inches. My 12" S&B filter according to the math will flow 1300 cfm but it only makes 3/4# of extra boost. I attribute this to the 90 mm MAF not necessarily the filter. IMHO, I don't think a cone filter that measures the same as a panel filter will flow as much air.

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Later,
Chuck
Black 00
Chuck's Lightning Page

[This message has been edited by LTNBOLT (edited 03-20-2001).]

[This message has been edited by LTNBOLT (edited 03-20-2001).]

 

Thank you to everyone who responded to my post. Everyone has good input and their reasons for running the setups they are running.

I wrote this post for several reasons:
First and foremost is that I live in Phoenix, Arizona where during the summer months temps of 110-115 are common (auto manufactures test cars here in the summer as the ultimate heat extreme and we run in it daily in the summer). I can only imagine the underhood temperatures! I have been running Sals filter and chip combo for about a year now and though I have no data to substantiate any of my thoughts, I am just in pursuit of pulling in a cooler air charge. After thinking about this for quite some time, and seeing some posts on the way the bone stock 2001's run, I thought, well, the revised factory box might have unleashed some new found hp. I also recall reading someones post awhile ago indicating that they always had their oil tested by an independent lab and when they ran a K&N filter their engine oil contained much higher levels of particulates. Another reason I think it would be really neat to make the factory airbox work is because when I am at the track, it would look stock under the hood and leave people really impressed.

I truly was not looking at a cold air setup as a force feed system (as I would think our blowers will pull more than a forced air setup will push), but I was just looking at pulling fresh unheated air into the motor.

I've just been thinking about this whole issue for quite some time and gathering all info and trying to figure out an optimum setup.

I've got several different setups I plan to do and test at the track and then I can real track numbers and write a new post with results. I'm sure you guys are right that I have not come up with anything new or performance enhancing, but if I could get a true airbox to run as good as an aftermarket filter, that would be great.

[This message has been edited by Peter B (edited 03-20-2001).]

 

I've dynoed both a ZX-11 & my hayabusa, both with ram air.You need a hi-volosity 28" or larger fan to acheive the correct dyno numbers.These bikes acheived an increase in H.P. only after 85 mph.It has been noted even with older ram air muscle cars ( GTO,Road Runner etc..) That this holds true as well. I beleive that its the volume and the quality of air that makes the difference on ANY vehicle.Ford was smart to enlarge the intake tube and fenderwell openings as there is cool dense air within the fender and yes there is app. 8 h.p. from this mod alone. The real trick is to increase the volume of air without increaseing ambient tempreature.I don't think any conical filter less than 10 inches would do any good, as this truck will take as much air as it can.I agree with the member that said that there isn't all that much heat on this side of the engine bay for a long period of time, especially with the truck moving.Trucks in general have a lot of outside moving air in here.But I think that KGM's idea can improve air quality some as well as a little more volume.Is it better than a 12 inch open -ended filter mounted to or near the fender opening? I doubt it.

 

Silver-Bolt
I'm in the process of doing the same cold air supply on my L. As you can see from the enclosed pix, I've already opened up the blank area on the driver's side. I'm making a mold of the opening for a fiberglass scoop. The problem is the frame "horn" that limits the size of the scoop. Just haven't forced myself to do any cutting on the frame.



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2000 Black Lightning, Snuglid
Custom Bed Carpet
Clear Corners, Lightning banner, Hyper Whites,
Tinted Windows, Custom air intake
2" drop, VTech Taillight covers.
NLOC #377
Build Number 1405/4966
DOB 3/21/00

See pics of '00BlackLightning at:
http://www.zing.com/album/?id=4294555843

 

Blacklightning-Thats an excellent source for an additional cold air supply.Inconspicuous and at the best height and formost point.Let us know how you make out.

 

I got a new "DREMEL" for my birthday. And can you guess what I am going to do with it?

I have an AIR RAID box in it now. So what I am going to do is open up both of the fresh air holes in the inner fender area and seal the AIR RAID real good so all the air is pulled in through the BIG holes I have made in the inner fender, and NONE from the hot engine compartment. I would not recomend this for everyone cause the fender is gonna have to be pulled off in order to do the job right. I believe this will be a decent working FRESH air system. It's not gonna be ram air, cause I already got that (it's called a blower). I also plan on pulling out the driver side headlight and blinker assembly when I go drag raceing. I know it won't be ram air, but there will definatley be no shortage of fresh ambient air.

I plan on testing at the dragstrip at each different stage of modification. That way I can tell you all if Hacking up the truck was worth it.

P.S. Don't worry, I am not a HACK. I did body/fender/frame/paint repair and customization for years.

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Cars and Trucks are made to be driven. NOT worshiped

 

'00Black...If you can get a 4" hose up to your air box from that location your dam good. Personally I think the fog light is the best spot but I'm not doing it to my truck.

 

Keep us posted, Lightfootning.This is something I've been curious about for some time now.A redesined Airaid.

 

LTNBOLT
My mistake on the filter size, when I went to the garage and grabbed the K&N to measure it. It didn't measure the outside dimensions, only the pleated part of the filter that flows air.
Dale

 

Another idea I had for getting fresh air to the engine was to cut some slots on the side marker. Cut out the back and run a hose to the air box. It wouldn't be real visible if done neatly and the marker could be replaced quickly if you wanted to go back to stock.

 

I know its not really feasable, but why dont some shops setup a high speed fan right infront of the car for dyno pulls? I'd pay an extra $20-30 just to see what the hp figures are from a WOT at 55.

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99 Black Lightning! Kills! More kills!
factory tonneau cover, 100k mile warrantee, Line-Xed

2.145 60' 8.789@82.71 (1/8) 13.603@101.05 1/4 track straight pipes, 'Major' rear lights, no chip

 

Tundra...The dyno here uses one and most pictures I've seen of other shops also have them. Mostly used to cool the car after a pull.

 

The frame is very close. I am playing with variuos naca ducts that have angled hose fittings. Fog light would be best, but not sure I want to do that. If I do end up removing the fogs it would be for brake ducts.

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2000 Silver Lightning 13.82 (stock)
PSP 4-way
PSP Filter Kit
PSP Lower Pulley
Level 10 Shift kit
Snug-Lid
In the works:
Level 10 converter
4-Link

 

For you guys with deep pockets I was looking around Sals site and he has 4" hose. He says PSP is the only place it can be bought from. Find that hard to believe but who knows. Price was a little steep for me, $25 a foot I think.

[This message has been edited by KGM (edited 03-21-2001).]

 

I get all the 4" flex pipe you need, very, very durable, and very smooth on the inside, also in different colors, and a whole lot cheaper than $25.00 a ft. I get it in 50' lenghts, and cut to order. I use it to blow fiberglass.