To change my Spark Plugs, thats what the Ford dealer told me, and thats if I bring them the plugs I want... That seems like a lot to me.

 

They charge what the labor manual tells them to, "by the book" involves removing quite a few things, I stink at changing plugs but can do it in about 1-2 hours.

Just do it yourself, it is very gratifying, and bring bandaids oh and a 7mm swivel socket, a crap load of extensions and a pack of smokes.

 

That is a very good price for a Dealership especially if your truck is coil on plug. If not coil on plug then not a good deal and better to do yourself.

 

That appears to be in line based on the 210.00 my dealer charged me in 03 for changing plugs in the L (while I watched).

After doing the plug change again myself this past winter I say that it's well worth it!! And, I had the S/C and I/C off and it was still a bear!!

 

meh, it's not THAT bad. just take your time and make sure you have the right tools and you're set.

 

+1. Dont be scared of the job. The first time i did it i was pooping my pants. Just make shure the gap is right and dont over turn the plugs i like to make them snuuug as a bug.

 

What should the gap be on a set pf NGK Tr6's

 

and a couple of 6-packs and your good to go!\

One of these really helps! Long Plug Socket...if you have a Harbor Freight Tools close by you can pick up for a few bucks!

 

depends on the hp numbers youre making.

 

Well I'm not 100% sure on my horsepower numbers but I did go 13.26 @105 with a race weight of 5,000 lbs. And according to the Horsepower Calculator at Fastlane Motorsports It would take 439 HP to move something that heavy that fast. I've found out that my truck is chipped, but that seems to be the only mod (other than the SLP resonators I put on it)

I was told the TR6's would be the way to go.

 

Here are the tools needed in the pic below.

If you go to Sears and get a little shorty 7mm socket with the swivel built on you won't need the 1/4" breaker bar shown in the pic. The coil pack bolt on #7 (3rd one back on the drivers side) is the reason for the 7mm swivel socket. It is really tight between the fuel regulator and the bolt.




Sparkplug Replacement Tips and Tools

The first thing you need to know is where the release for the wire connector to the coil pack is. It is on the bottom in the middle back next to the wires. You push up on it.

Tools needed are: 3/8" ratchet with (2) 6" extensions, (2) 3" extensions (1) 3/8" swivel and 5/8" sparkplug socket. 1/4" ratchet with (2) 2" extensions, (1) 4" extension and 7mm socket. 1/4" small breaker bar (I call it that) this tool will make life easy on the third 7mm bolt back on drivers side because a regulator sticks out off of the fuel rail making it a tight fit. A telescopic magnet would help in removing and replacing 7mm bolts.

You do not have to take fuel rails or power steering tank brackets off to do this job. Disconnect the wire to the coil pack then remove the 7mm bolt and twist coil back and forth. The coil should come right out with a long rubber boot on the end. After you get it out wipe any dirt off with a rag so it won't fall back in the hole going back in. If you have air blow any grit out of the hole before removing plug.

The 3/8" ratchet, (2) 6" extensions and socket do most of the plugs. The passenger side 4th plug takes a 3" extension in the plug socket to make it in the hole because of a metal hose.The back plugs on both sides are easier if you use a swivel above the 3" extension and long extensions to get out into the clear. Be careful starting the plugs with a swivel because of crossthreading.

On the drivers side the first plug takes all of your 1/4" drive extensions to be able to get to the 7mm bolt because of a bracket. This bracket is also over the plug hole. Now just use your 3" extension on the plug socket and slip it in the hole from the front of the truck. Then put put another 3" on it and take it out no problem. It helps to unplug the hard plastic hose from the rubber intake boot for more room.

The only other problem is the 7mm bolt on the 3rd plug back on the drivers side. It's too tight to even use a swivel above the socket. This was after going to three stores to find one. I had to finally crank it over at a 90 degree angle and use it like a breaker bar. This is why I suggest you get one of those little breaker bars on the front end and you'll have no trouble. (with the 7mm swivel socket you won't need the 1/4" breaker bar).


Tips: Start your 7mm bolts and plugs by hand before putting a ratchet on then. You don't want to crossthread that aluminum

Videos to remove sparkplug:

Sparkplug Video 1

Sparkplug Video 2

If you can't do it after this then I would pay the $240 and call it a day.

 

WOW man, thanks a LOT. You've been a HUGE help

 

That 439 is BHP not RWHP, and your truck weighs closer to 4500lbs... unless you weigh 500lbs...