Thanks Rob. I'm planning to make a big splash when I finally get to the track. It's been over a year since I ran my 11.4 at Hagerstown and my Lightning has gone through a lot of surgery since then.

 

As long as you keep it above 9.9 well get along just fine

Bro you aint kidding when you say A LOT of surgery, hell maybe you'll pull a Ronbo and go right from the 11's straight to the 9's As the saying goes, IT'S IN THERE.....

 

I think 9's might be a possibility but I need to shed a lot more weight.

 

When are you planning on testing her out? Awesome write up BTW..

 

Thanks! I'm gonna drive up to Pro-Dyno in a few weeks and get it tuned for the juice. After that it'll be time to hit the track and get everything dialed in. I'll probably have to play with the FJO controller a little to get it just right.

 

You don't leave the blanket on when this is functional, do you? That fan/cooler needs to breath.

I'm still a fan of the kit that just kept the No2 at pressure without heating...

Coldie

 

No, I remove it. The fan really doesn't do the cooling of the bottle. It's to cool the electronics of the heating/cooling element. This unit uses thermoelectric technology called Peltier. You can read more about it here...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peltier-Seebeck_effect

Are you referring to a pusher type system like NANO? If so I've heard mixed reviews about using that type of system. Som say it's good and some say there should also be heat with pressure. You can read more about it here...

http://www.nitrousforum.com/forums/s...highlight=NANO

 

Yes, I'm familiar with Peltier thermal transfer devices. Just wanted to make sure you weren't leaving the blankey on (they aren't magic, the heat has to come from/go somewhere).

And yes I was referring to the nanonitrous system. <I deleted my incorrect comments> Interestingly enough, it appears most of the work in nitrous injectors is in dealing with this varying pressure density.

The negatives of complexity and hoses and weight and draining are all true.
A bottle heater/cooler certainly is much easier set and forget type system, but it can't handle the load while in use.

(trust me, I fill/empty pressurized cylinders all the time, your peltier can't keep up)

How much load does the fire and ice system put on the battery? Some of the peltiers can use quite a bit of power.

BTW: Thanks for the excellent write up. We need more people like you.

 

I'm not really sure how much load it pulls from the battery. I only plan to use it when the vehicle is running or when a battery charger is hooked up. I know that this item won't be affective when the bottle is low on nitrous. The same can be aid for regular heaters. I'll just take it and get it filled when it gets too low to keep the pressures up.

 

The load must be somewhat less than the traditional NX Heater Kits because NX does not include a 30-40 amp relay to distribute the actual load as with their other kits!
Hopefuly it was not an oversite on their part (I installed a relay anyway)!
Like Spencer, I have the Weather-pack connector terminals on my setup and I could feel the connection getting warm during operation of the standard Heavy Duty NX Heater...not so with the new Fire & Ice Kit!

 

Thanks for the input Billy. Can you comment on the testing you've done with the unit?

 

Been pleased so far with the testing. The Fire & Ice Unit seems to be a quality piece of hardware and electronics. It takes over the control of the bottle pressure and keeps you informed as to what's going on with the associated light indicators. Initial tests showed following results:

1. Turned on heater switch = pressure was at 975/psi

2. Both heater and fan started (Red "Heater" Light came on) and ran until pressure reached 1025psi (per digital gauge on dash...only took 5-6 minutes...heater gets really HOT. The heater and fan cut off and Green "Blinks at Pressure" light started blinking.

3. Turned control switch off and let it set for 5-6 minutes and pressure continued to climb up to 1030psi.

4. Turned control switch back on and fan began to run (yellow "Cooling" light on)
Fan ran for 3-4 minutes and psi dropped to 1025psi and fan cut off! (Green "Blinks at Pressure" light started blinking.

So, based on this, it does keep the pressure within 5psi as advertised, although, the magic psi# cutoff for mine seems to be 1025, not 1050 and advertised.

Contacted NX and discussed with their technician. He said there is a percentage of tolerance with the controller, sensor, my digital gauge sensor, etc, etc.

The tech stated that anywhere between 1000 and 1050psi is the window NX actually looks for and peak performance will be achieved anywhere in this window. So, at 1025psi, I seem to be good to go! Waiting now to see what test results Spencer has with his setup!

 

Thanks Billy! I'll be getting my bottle filled next week and I'll do some testing then.