I bought an FJO Progressive Nitrous Mini Controller recently and I just got it today. I read all the instructions and installed the software and USB drivers on my laptop. I didn't know if it was going to work correctly with my Windows Vista OS, but it did. My next step is to set-up my User Data, upload it to the controller, and install the controller on my Lightning. But I have a few questions before I attempt to do this...

The following are the questions I have about setting-up the User Data before I upload it to the controller...

1. Input #2: It says in the manual that Input #2 can be used with either a 12V signal or ground signal to activate it. It also says that this input is used as a secondary arming switch for applications that use a trans-brake or clutch switch. So should I just disable this option?

2. Stage Set-Up: This seems pretty self explainatory, but I have a few questions. The RPM cutoff was already set at 6,000 when I opened the file. Should I leave it there or set it higher/lower? The RPM trigger was also pre-set and at 3,000. Should I leave it there or set it higher/lower?

3. Real Curve: Should I leave the curve the way it is with a straight line from 0% to 100% or should I tweak it? Also, what's the best curve to use? Time based or RPM based? I'm sure it's about preference, but I'd appreciate opinions.

The following are the questions I have about installing the controller on the vehicle...

1. Grounds: I assume the large black wire on the controller (see fourth pic) is the Driver Ground because in the installation instructions it has (12 AWG black wire) after is says Driver Ground. If that's the case, where's the best place to ground this wire? It says that it should be connected to a ground location that can handle 80 AMPS. If the large black wire is the Driver Ground then that would mean that the small black wire on the weather pack connector with all the other wires would be the Controller Ground (see last pic). It says to ground this wire to a chassis ground near the battery and preferably not to the same location as the Driver Ground. Where would be a good spot for this ground? Firewall?

2. Tach Input: The green wire coming out of the male weather pack connector (see last pic) is the Tach (RPM) Input. The manual says it's designed to work with most tachometer signals (down to 3 volts). It says that it can be connected to a tach signal, coil trigger signal, or a fuel injector. It says DO NOT connect it to a high voltage wire. I think a fuel injector would be the best bet. Which injector wire should I connect it to?

3. Input #1: The white wire with the red stripe coming out of the weather pack connector is the Input #1 wire. This wire is designated to work with most TPS's. I'm not going to use a WOT switch so I need to connect this wire directly to the signal wire of the TPS. Which wire is that?

That's about all the questions I have right now. The rest of it looks pretty easy. Any tips or information about this would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

Ah me last post before I leave for vaction in a couple of minutes

Re: Input 2
Sounds like Input 2 will not be used in your case

If you had a Trans Brake and a 5500 RPM Stall convertor you'd need it
If you had a Stick you would want it
If me Aunt had ***** she'd be me Uncle

Re: Stage Set Up
6000 RPM might be too low depending on your shift points ?
(for example if shift point is 5700 - 5800 maybe 6200 would be better)

Re: 3000 RPM for the trigger
Usually we activate n20 based on a delay time, (for example mine is delayed 1/2 a second). We do this because it's important to be in it BEFORE spraying. 3000 sounds like a good starting point but if you leave the line stalling HIGHER than say 2500 RPM maybe a tad higher would be better, 3200 - 3300.

Real Curve sounds like a good place to start....

Cant help with the Tach signal .....

TPS Activating wire is the MIDDLE wire there are 3 on top of each other
You want the Middle wire (I believe it's GREY)



This is the ground I always used

If it's good enough for Ford it's good enough for me

See ya in a week or so, good luck....

 

Thanks for the info Rob. I forgot to mention that this controller has a "1st Gear Lock-Out" feature that prevents it from spraying until the L has shifted into 2nd. This would allow me to get off the line and rolling before the nitrous activated. Then I could bring it on gradually through the power band.

Enjoy your vacation!!!

 

got to love the I phone
woo hoo
hmm no n20 in first gear hu???
got to think bout that one a bit...
I'll drink a few cold ones while babe watching
pool side and get back to you

 

I guess I'll call PSI. Fuzzie said that he has the same controller, but he didn't set it up. He said that his tuner PSI did it all for him. I'll see what they have to say. There doesn't seem to be anyone that knows anything about this controller.

 

T, I would really think that control over. The most important part @ spraying is to hit it asap and then if anything to start pulling power away as you get futher down the track. Ya its a good idea to come on progressive but not hitting it in first is DEF going to NOT give you your best results. It may work ok I dont know but the whole idea is to hit it asap and hit it hard and take advantage of the 60 ft all that xtra tq can net you. This is the first controller Ive ever heard of that starts in second...

 

It's an option that comes in the program. I don't have to use it. I can either check the box or not check it.

 

So how should I ramp it? I'm planning to start with a 75 shot and maybe later down the line move up to a 100 shot. I'm thinking if I use the Time-Based feature I would set it up like this...

RPM Trigger: 3500 RPM's
RPM Cutoff: 6100 RPM's
Time Delay: 0.5 sec
Ramp: 10.0 sec (That's as high as the ramp goes)
Curve: 50% at 0.5 sec, 70% at 1.0 sec, 90% at 1.6 sec, 100% from 2.1 sec to 9.4 sec, 90% at 10.0 sec, and finish at 70% at 10.5 sec.

How does that sound? If that's no good, what would you recommend?