We all know the rods are the weakest link in our motors...

lets say... the motor gives out at 475RWHP, then I had h-beam rods that support over 1000HP...

as I turned up the boost, and get to 500 RWHP then 550RWHP then 600RWHP whats the next thing to go?

Now this is assuming I already have all the fuel upgrades to support this venture and I have the upgrade maf taken care of.. whats the next physical point of failure that would go no matter how much tuning you do...

thanks.

 

Everything in your drive train. Tranny, drive shaft, rear diff. Cooling system, brakes. All associated components should be evaulated and upgraded whenever power is increased.

 

thats not what im looking for...

im talking engine specific...

the rear end on our trucks and driveline from what I have been told is good to about 600RWHP

 

maybe a valve being burnt

 

Blown out spark plugs...lifted heads...

 

The rods are truly the weak link to say 500HP, if your putting together a 1000HP vehicle and concerned about engine durability, every component from the block up to valves are a concern but this is really a non issue, while I'm sure there out there has anyone seen a 1000HP dyno sheet on a street driven 5.4, I know Sal was over 900 and not JL's race truck, not Joe's twin turbo GT but a 5.4 two valve, like I said I'm sure it's been done but not often. To be at that power level I truly believe you need a new head design with wire gaskets and one hell of a flow potential, a GT alloy block stuffed with billet internals and one large turbo or a set of twins.

 

ha...

not gonna go that high... but why spend all this money on perfect heads, and perfect pistons if its not needed (for a dialy driver). All I want to know is... when I blow my engine up at 500-550 RWHP, when I rebuild it.. i just need beefier rods and a GREAT tune... maybe get arp bolts for the ehads and mains, and im good to say 600RWHP?

thats what I want to know... im not gonna run 1000HP I may not even get to 600.. but my goal is solid 11 sec in the dead of summer, daily driver.... im guessing between 500-600RWHP....

thats what I want...

 

what kind of truck do you have?

 

I'm assuming your driving an L'...... If you want to have 11 sec L in the summer your gonna need slicks/dr's, traction bars, fuel pumps(dual walbros 255),new injectors, decent exhaust, KB or Whip kit, CAI, and a good custom tune...This combo will defintitely put you in the mix of the 11 sec range. All this can be done a stock block with these good supporting mods.....NOS if you're brave and don't care about the longevity of your stock motor.....

 

At 600 RWHP the next weakest link will be the tranny. If you are building the motor then you should be able to take 600 @ the wheels. Thats about 725 at the flywheel. I have a JLP bottom end and JDM heads with all the supporting mods. I am still on the stock transmission but the rebuild is coming next month. I dont think you would have a weak link in a built motor at 600 hp if the motor is built for it. The weak link happens when you exceed the point that is was designed for. Of course you know you can have failure of any component at any time.....I have broke a couple valve springs on a newly built motor at a lower HP than I have now. Both times it ruined the motor and happened at low speed/low RPM's with less than 1,000 miles on the motor. Trust me, it sucks....I dont think those types of failures can be predicted...Just be sure that your dealing with a vendor that stands behind their work. I was lucky.

 

I have a stock lower with new I beams stock pistons ,And lfp stage two heads and cams.And suporting fuel mods with a 8 lb lower and ported eaton puting down close two 500 rwhp on a mild tune.To date everything holding togather ,But that can always change 4,000 mile on new motor.

12.55 @109.7 on nitto 555r

 

you are pushing 500RWHP and are only able to run 12.55?

 

gotcha... so when this blows up in the future.. and I do a rebuild... and just want to stay at this power level... all i need to do is stock everything with beefier rods, some arp head bolts and main bolts and i should get anothe motor that will last a while? of course depending on how you drive it...

????

hell i am at 420RWHP on a dynojet, and it comes out to 375RWHP on a mustang dyno... If I could get 450RWHP on that mustang dyno I think I would be Happy..... hmm... now how to achieve this on my stock motor....

60lb injectors
sct2400 MAF
KB Superhcarer
dual walbro 255's
anything else?

right now I am running
170 t-stat
6lb lower
Brute force CAI
nitto 555
magnaflow hi-flow cats (2) pre-cats are gone... magnaflo dual mufflers...
Lakewoods...

 

Sorry to bother you with my low 1/4 time .I got my truck dyno at 423 hp 480 tq before I ported the eaton and went to the 8 lb .My truck still has the stock stall converter .Now that time is same pass after pass after driving 100 miles to the track on the high way with no cool down time before passes .And my set up doesnt make real good tq till 3,000 rpm so with the stock stall and street tires Im pretty happy.