Dumb towing questions
Where can I get some info on towing? Is there a good web-site somewhere?
I will be towing a 2800lb. car regularly, and know nothing about towing.
My questions:
What do I need to know about trailers (sizes, types, w/brakes, etc.)
Who makes good trailers? How much?
What do I need to know about loading/unloading (why do people put wood under rear wheels of truck?)
What do I need to know about the hitch ball?
Thanks!
I will be towing a 2800lb. car regularly, and know nothing about towing.
My questions:
What do I need to know about trailers (sizes, types, w/brakes, etc.)
Who makes good trailers? How much?
What do I need to know about loading/unloading (why do people put wood under rear wheels of truck?)
What do I need to know about the hitch ball?
Thanks!
Not an expert at all, but can tell you a couple of things. 2800 lbs. should be a piece of cake. If you can afford an aluminum trailer all the better, since it will save weight and be less susceptible to corrosion. If not, then use the lightest galvanized (not painted) trailer possible. Tongue weight is critical, do not exceed 500 lbs., but too light is dangerous, too. And these trucks have been lowered, so you will undoubtedly need a ball mount with a 4" or 6" rise in order insure that the trailer is level when loaded. I need a 6" rise for my boat, to compensate for 4" of spring compression, but my boat is considerabley heavier than 2800 lbs., so you may only need 4". And make sure you buy a ball with the rated capacity, 3500 lbs. won't cut it, but getting a 7500 lb. ball would be a waste, too, because it far exceeds the hitch rating of 5000 lbs. Happy towing.
[This message has been edited by alphadoggy (edited 11-01-2000).]
[This message has been edited by alphadoggy (edited 11-01-2000).]
I just got an electric brake controller made by Draw-tight if your trailer has electric brakes. This device workes off your wire harness connector next to the hitch. You mount it somewhere on the panel just below your steering wheel to adjust sensitivity of the trailer brakes. It works when you hit your brake pedal. Very neat item for about $100 installed. There should be a wire pigtail that came with your L that's in the glove box.
As everyone else has mentioned, your towing weight will not be a problem for your truck. I tow my 3250lb Mustang every now and then, and use a friend's Trackmaster 16' trailer. It's a very nice trailer. Unless you're going to be towing a truck, I believe 16' is long enough. A dove tail is nice b/c it allows the ramps to rest more horizontally, and makes getting a lowered vehicle onto the trailer easier. The reason people put wood under the rear tires of the truck is to get a better angle for loading a lowered car. I would just recommend getting longer ramps if your car is lowered (mine is)so you don't have any clearance issues with the front end of the car and the ramps as you begin loading the car.
Everything people are mentioning about trailer ***** and ball heights is correct, as is the recommendation for tandem axles and trailer brakes. All are nearly mandatory, IMHO, if you want to be able to tow easily without any worries. I'm no expert in towing, so I understand the "rookie" feelings. I never tow enough to be completely comfortable, so I like all the safety features I can get.
The BEST thing no one here has mentioned is a load-leveling hitch. This is huge, IMO. It really helps effectively take weight off the tongue.
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Wes Tarbox
90 LX 5.0 (10.69 @ 134.7)--597rwhp/590rwtq
96 Cobra (12.34 @ 115.8)--392rwhp/433rwtq
99 Lightning (13.20 @ 103.8)--364rwhp/444rwtq
00 Expedition XLT 5.4
http://members.aol.com/Wa2fst/index.html
Everything people are mentioning about trailer ***** and ball heights is correct, as is the recommendation for tandem axles and trailer brakes. All are nearly mandatory, IMHO, if you want to be able to tow easily without any worries. I'm no expert in towing, so I understand the "rookie" feelings. I never tow enough to be completely comfortable, so I like all the safety features I can get.
The BEST thing no one here has mentioned is a load-leveling hitch. This is huge, IMO. It really helps effectively take weight off the tongue.
------------------
Wes Tarbox
90 LX 5.0 (10.69 @ 134.7)--597rwhp/590rwtq
96 Cobra (12.34 @ 115.8)--392rwhp/433rwtq
99 Lightning (13.20 @ 103.8)--364rwhp/444rwtq
00 Expedition XLT 5.4
http://members.aol.com/Wa2fst/index.html
Ideally, you should be pulling a loaded trailer level. Wait until you get the trailer before you get a ball mount. Ball mounts come in many different rises/drops, depending on your needs. Measure the tongue height of the trailer and the top of the hitch receiver hole. Calculate the difference and estimate the ball mount size you'll need. Don't forget that the tongue weight on a loaded trailer will lower the rear end of the towing vehicle. An empty trailer will be high in the front.
Also, if the trailer has a tongue jack, you may want a longer ball mount so you can open the tailgate and not hit the tongue jack. I use a Reese #21241 to pull my camper. It is 13" horizontally from the center of the pin hole to the center of the ball hole. It has a 3.25" drop or a 2" rise. I use it in the rise position. It is rated 5000/500 like most mounts with a 1" ball hole and matches the hitch ratings nicely.
[This message has been edited by Jimb (edited 11-02-2000).]
Also, if the trailer has a tongue jack, you may want a longer ball mount so you can open the tailgate and not hit the tongue jack. I use a Reese #21241 to pull my camper. It is 13" horizontally from the center of the pin hole to the center of the ball hole. It has a 3.25" drop or a 2" rise. I use it in the rise position. It is rated 5000/500 like most mounts with a 1" ball hole and matches the hitch ratings nicely.
[This message has been edited by Jimb (edited 11-02-2000).]


