Noelvm,

Yes, you can get those sockets specifically designed for spark plugs (with the rubber boot inside) at Sears. I have a 5/8 and 13/16" pair and they work great.

Thanks for all the tips posted on the plug change guys!

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Wes Tarbox
90 LX 5.0 (10.69 @ 134.7)--597rwhp/590rwtq
96 Cobra (12.34 @ 115.8)--392rwhp/433rwtq
99 Lightning (13.20 @ 103.8)--364rwhp/444rwtq
00 Expedition XLT 5.4
http://members.aol.com/Wa2fst/index.html

 

Noelvm,

My ratchet would not fit under that regulator
on the fuel rail. A swivel would not work either unless cranked over at almost 90 degree angle and used like a breaker bar. Maybe your fuel rail sets a little higher but that's the facts on mine like it or not.

You can get that socket at Walmart for $3 and
some change. I did.

------------------
Later,

Chuck
Black 00
http://home.midsouth.rr.com/lightningpage



[This message has been edited by LTNBOLT (edited 10-07-2000).]

 

Hey Noel, didn't you know "SEARS HAS EVERTHING" or atleast that what they use to advertise. So are you reccommending one or two six packs for the job. Just like to get all my ducks in a row before I start something.

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99 Black#1940 Modified Airaid box Pro-M 80 Swanson Chip Wet Okole's Loud Clunk Bedrug Clear corners 2" Aim drop 2nd set well worn F-1's 100 W Xenon Fog Lamps Red Line Water Wetter

 

Do you apply the beer before you start or after the last plug is installed?

 

Do this with cold engine. Do front pass side plug first. It is the easiest and will give you confidence. Do rear pass side plug next. It's the hardest and get it out of the way while you are fresh. Finish pass side. Remove maf and rubber air inlet. 1badtrk also removed bracket on lower two bolts of throttle body and push stuff out of the way. Third back is the one with hard to get to 7 mm bolt. Above recommendations are good. I was able to get it with a 1/4 ratchet but the breaker bar is good to have. You definately need a short 1/4 7mm socket. I have both and a swivel and many extensions and swivel for 3/8 I have 6 or 7. Remember release for plug wire clip is on back at top and injector wire on side of clip. You will find it easier to remove some of the injector clips to get to the 7 mm bolts. Best to have one of those magnet on rod tools. Try not to drop anything. There are all kinds of places for stuff to go including under the intake that are really hard to find. Lay covers over fenders. Get step stool. I use old milk crates. Recheck everything three or four times. Of course start with removing neg batt cable. Pray. Replace cable. Start engine. If it runs good then open beer.
noelvm

 

Noel, instead of a socket with a rubber insert (good thing to have anyway; keeps you from breaking the plug)or a magnet, I use a piece of rubber fuel line hose. I start and remove plugs this way on everything I work on. It works great. I got this idea from Snap-on tools. They used to sell a rubber tool just for this purpose. When I lost mine I started using the fuel line...works great! Now I could be wrong about using it on the "L". I have not tried to replace mine. Just a thought.

Jerry Jordan

 

Noelvm, what did the old plugs look like when you pulled them out. Grey, Black, Tan and where they intact ( electrodes still on)? Just curious/woried about mine, I have 10,000 miles on the truck and an intercooler that leaks. Thanks.

 

Thanks Jerry, thats a good idea if the hose is stiff enough and straight. It's a 3" drop to set the plugs.

The plugs we pulled out were all tan which indicates a slight lean condition, but since this engine is equipped with a PRO-M and the chip was out being reprogrammed that may be the cause. All the electrodes were present. This was not a Nitro engine and very little 104 if any was run thru it. I run 104 in mine every race, about a 40%-50% mixture. Makes my truck hummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.
noelvm

 

Noelvm, thanks. I feel better. I was a little worried based on some of the other posts I have read. I hope I can get an intercooler out of Ford soon. I may have them change the plugs out and see if they have coolant residue embeded on them.

 

Part of the intercooler repair INCLUDES new plugs, new 02 sensors, and an oil change of oil of your choice including Mobil 1. If they give you any bull s**t demand to see the dealership GM and tellem in no uncertain terms that unless they want that truck back in a nasty lawsuit they better give you what you want which is no different than what Ford has authorized and be quick about and smile since both Ford and the Dealerships made a lot of money on these trucks.
noelvm

 

Yeah...thats the ticket..just take an ice pik to the IC and get the free plugs and 02 sensors..why did I not think of that...I mean..I just had it in.....if I ever bend over the hood of this truck, ya might as well just slam the hood on my ***...'cause with this back....there ain't no goin' back...(excuse the pun)..oh yeah...I can save a few bucks..I won't have to buy Noel any Beer... ..not that I would NOT! I prolly would...and drink it too! lata..jw