Hey, I'm going to purchase and install the Roush Kit within the next couple of weeks.

I need clarification on one thing though...

I remember Chris Thomas posted instructions that stated when replacing the front springs, it is possible to get them out by taking tension off of them and removing the two bolts that mount the upper A-arm to the frame. Of course, shocks are already removed and sway-bar is disconnected. Followed by an alignment, for sure... Is this all there is to it?

Before I start it, I want to make sure it's not something I can't do in my garage on a Sat. morning.

Thanks for the help...

------------------
Rich
1999.5 SVT Lightning - Red. Super Chip. K&N Filter. Viper Alarm w/remote start, Sir Michael's roll pan, smooth corners and steps w/billet inserts, clear corner lenses, Cervinis Ram Air hood, ARE Cover w/ wing, Momo billet pedals, cd changer, cover, Phantom boost and nitrous gauges, MTX Thunderform w/ 2 10" MTX Thunder 4000 subs. 5-channel 500w. Clarion amp.(APA5241), (4)Polk Audio 3-way, 130w. DX 7's, Color-matched Muth signal mirrors, Soundproofed cab, BedRug, AIM 2" Drop, Trenz billet grills, Piaa 9007 Super Whites, etc. Build #2755
TampaSVT@Tampabay.rr.com

http://home.tampabay.rr.com/tampasvt...cs/SigPic1.jpg

2001 PT Cruiser - Limited Edition
1999.5 Expedition XLT




[This message has been edited by TampaBayLightning (edited 09-14-2000).]

 

Paul, How do you like the Eibach springs? Ride / Handling? How much did do they lower the front?

TIA

 

height with Eibach springs:

 

BRIMSTONE, how much is the Eibach kit?
And does it require you to change the hangers?

 

Ahh... the So-Cal Speedshop springs... thanks BRIMSTONE.

SilverBullet: BRIMSTONE's setup is here- https://www.f150online.com/f150board...ML/000841.html

-Dreamin

 

TampaBay,

It is easier to do it the way Chris Thomas suggested. Paul's way is definitely _by the book_. I got a Haynes manual and it says to remove the endlink from the steering knuckle that holds the brake caliper on.

However, I didn't have an adequate puller and even with a hammer, I couldn't get the lower or upper A-arm to budge.

So, I did just as Chris suggests...remove the two upper A-arm bolts. Keep a jack under the lower A-arm at the spring pocket, just as Paul said. You will probably need an extra set of hands to either 1) lower the jack or 2) hold the upper A-arm/brake caliper assembly...its pretty heavy. As long as you lower the jack slowly, the spring will just drop out. It decompreses in a straight-downward fashion, so there is no chance of it flying out (although I secured it with a 2000# tie strap anyway).

Install new spring and bolt in the upper A-arm bolts. You need an alignment anyway, so its not a big deal. Just torque them down and make a trip to your local alignment shop shortly thereafter.

I was pleased with the way mine all turned out, although I did not get nearly as involved as your Roush stuff. Still a 2" drop looks killer, IMO.

------------------
Wes Tarbox
90 LX 5.0 (10.69 @ 134.7)--597rwhp/590rwtq
96 Cobra (12.63 @ 114.5)--392rwhp/433rwtq
99 Lightning (13.20 @ 103.3)--364rwhp/444rwtq
00 Expedition XLT 5.4
http://members.aol.com/Wa2fst/index.html

 

i did the roush kit on my truck.. i popped the spindle as mentioned above ..it was really easy.. the front is simple the rear is a pain in the butt...make sure you have two guys to do it!...PB GAS has the right idea!

 

i did the roush kit on my truck.. i popped the spindle as mentioned above ..it was really easy.. the front is simple the rear is a pain in the butt...make sure you have two guys to do it!...PB GAS has the right idea!

 

Uhhhh.....there is an easier way....

I just put Eibach springs on mine last week. Here is what I did. Seeing that you have the wheel off, swaybar end-link disconnected, shock out, the next step is to make sure that you have the jack under the spring pocket. Pull out the cotter pin that is on the nut at the upper rear area of the spindle. Loosen the nut so that it is on by a couple of turns. Lower the jack to release the pressure under the spring pocket. Keep the jack under it although. Get a large hammer and strike the area of the spindle near the ball joint and it will seperate without a problem. Pump the jack up under the spring pocket again to compress the spring. Remove the nut that was holding the ball joint from the upper A arm to the spindle and then use a long piece of coat hanger to support the unit. Then slowly lower the jack until the tension is off of the spring. I will come right out.

Important....make sure you also loosen the nut that holds the brake line to the lower A arm and loosen the clips that hold the ABS line to the shock and the upper A arm.

Let me know if you need any more details, sorry for the rushed post....I am real busy here.

Paul G.

 

Tampa Bay or roushfan-1,


What shocks come with this kit? i am looking for a set for my truck.

thank you

------------------
Black 99 xlt sc flairside,4.6 2w.d.,jardine catback,
superchip,
RS9000 shocks,
lowered 2" front and back,svt rims,265/60/18 avs yokohamas,
Ford 9mm sparkplug wires.
Snug Lid.2 KC daylighters.


FUTURE MODS: LS AND 4.10 GEARS.

 

Roush uses Bilstein shocks.

 

Thanks for all the help, guys...
Can't wait to get this project underway...

Since Roush won't sell the kit without the $400.00 shocks, I've tried to contact Pegasus Custom but no answer and their website is down.

Does anybody know of another dealer that sells the Roush suspension stuff?

Rich

 

TampaBayLightning: Get the whole kit and sell the shocks to "veloci" above...

 

Don't forget to have the swaybar ends cut or bent. SoCal Speed Shop also exended the shock mounts so they could use the stock shocks but that needs a welder.

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1999 Red SVT Lightning
#3466 of 4000
NLOC #428
99 Grand Prix GTP Red

 

Dreamin.....

Eibach springs are great. Less brake dive better cornering and no float. I am very pleased with them!

sorry for the late reply!

Paul G.