Ok guys, for you less experienced here is a step by step with pic.

1. Disconnect negative battery cable (the silver one)

2. Loosen this screw.


3. Disconnect MAF primary sensor attached to hose. Put screwdriver tip between outside of clip and center tab. Push center tab toward back which releases plug to drop down. Gently wiggle plug with downward pressure whole applying pressure with screwdriver to tab. Do not use too much force or turn blade as you might brake sensor clip bracket.


4. Remove temp sensor fro lower rear of air box by turning 90 degrees and gently pulling out without damaging head. Turn it in which ever direction it turns the easiest. BE CAREFUL.


5. Remove box and rubber piece going into fender. Box pulls straight up. Remove grommets that hold box. Put this stuff in your spare parts collection.

6. Strip back covering from temp sensor which you removed from the air box, about 4" worth. There is tape and plastic tubing. You will see two wires. Don't bang around temp sensor while doing this you will break it.


7. Note that one wire is striped. They are different and not interchangeable, so when adding wire extension make sure the stripedt wire gets hooked to the striped wire. Extension wire should be taped to intruction sheet. Look at phote before cutting wires. Notice I cut them off set. This proctects you in a worse case senerio where if all your tape comes off the wires still will not touch and short out. I sodered mine and I recommend this over butt connectors which crush the wire, which can then break from vibration or come loose.


Tape all four connections.


Let's talk tape. All tape is junk except for 3 M Tartan tape which comes in a plastic box, cost about $4.00 a roll and can be bought at Home Depot. All other tape tends to get hot and loose it's ability to stick and starts to unravel. This tape is worth the money. Ask any electrician. Now start wrapping tape from plastic to sensor going about 1/4" per turn. Make a couple of loops at the sensor (include the two plastic nipples on the back of the sensor and start backward wrapping to the place you began. Take fingers and gently press together along entire length. When sodering make sure soder flows into wire. No little round ***** of soder. Soder will flow when the wires get hot enough.

8. Test installing sensor in end of filter (the one you just got through adding the wire to)
Do not FORCE. Mine shown here is not a K&N. I looked at the K&N and it seemed to be better prepared but may still need some work to get sensor in filter. If It doesn't go in first remove filter from MAF (three nuts). Hold filter with top parrell to ground and take a 1/4 rat file and gently work hole. Usually you need to elongate the area where to two tabs fit in. Smooth off any rough corners you create. Test sensor. If any friction is encountered file some more. If you try to force sensor you're gonna break it. When sensor goes in and turns 90 degrees you are done with this step.


9. Now you must clean filter from any possible filings that may have gotten into filter. I blew mine out. (If you did this right there is probably none in filter) If you don't have a compressor use a vaccum cleaner. Visually inspect inside of filter and then reinstall on MAF. As these are selflocking nuts do not over tighten. Just get snug up againsto MAF housing.

10. You are now ready to install MAF. Gently push MAF into rubber housing. Look on intake at rear for black plate with hole that will be close to mounting plate on MAF. Mine seemed to want to go on bottom of engine plate so I but it on the bottom. Install bolt, nut, and lock washer provided but do not tighten.


11. Make sure MAF goes into rubber all the way around and then tighten screw on clamp. While you have the screwdriver in your hand check screw on clamp at other end of rubber tubing at blower housing.

12. Install MAF sensor plug to MAF housing. I put my thumbs on top and pulled up plug until it snapped into clip.

13. Install temp sensor in end of filter. Factory recommends putting silicone on area where sensor will rest on filter end to keep it from not vibrating loose. Do NOT get silicon on sensor end.



14. Tighten bolt on back of MAF at engine plate.

15. Reattach battery cable. Start engine and go through start up proceedure. At idel park, drive, park AC on, drive with ac on, park, turn engine off. If you don't do this and go down the road and try turning on AC it will not come on unless you drop rpm to idle.

Tools I used.



Total time including taking pictures (and I had never done it before either) 40 minutes, but I went and found all the tools first.
noelvm

 

Nice job on the MAF install instructions!Thanks!

 

Nice job Noel! Thanks for the pics, I owe you a cold one.

 

I have an Airaid and they put the temp probe
but the rear of the filter. Should i move mine? What does the temp probe tell the engine? Thanks Guys!
Bryce

------------------
Red 2000 Lightning, SuperChip R7, Excellerator X144 Muff., Airaid, Granatelli Mass Air Meter, Bed carpet,Pioneer TS-6865 cab speakers,Factory Tonneau.

 

Excellent instructions! Thank you! A couple of questions:
1. How much for the filter and where did you get it?
2. How much louder does this make the engine sound? I put one of these on my Contour SVT and it made the engine much louder. (But increased power noticeably)

Thanks again.

 

L hound. Go back and read the last few Pro M MAF threads. I have been conducting a group buy. I just got a few more from supplier if you want one. yes they are louder and yes they add about 20 hp with the filter if you are not currently running a filter.
Noelvm

 

So correct me if I am wrong then but PRO MAF is charging $270 + $10.50 for shipping? For a filter?? I paid ~$95 for the filter for my SVT Contour for an almost identical setup and thought *that* was high. http://www.kustomz.com/contour1.html What makes the PRO M worth so much more? Is there more to the setup than meets the eye?

Thanks!

 

The PRO-M is the air metering device not the filter. It just comes with the filter also. It has no vertical restriction inside like the ford unit and measures air with a side mounted venturi not a screen. It's true potential is achieved with a chip. Everybody is running them. Ask anybody who runs. Here in Houston all us top dogs have have one.
noelvm

 

Ok, makes sense now. In step 12, you say: "Install MAF sensor plug to MAF housing. I put my thumbs on top and pulled up plug until it snapped into clip."

Is this the original sensor that is unattached in Step 3? The MAF sensor in the picture in step 13 looks a little different than the MAF sensor in the pic in step 3.

Thanks

 

noel

Great shots with a lot of info.

Just sent this thread to Gordon for the FAQ's

------------------
Jim
jim@jimshaw.cc

Black 00, 4.10's, SuperChip/R9, super whites, Airaid w/10" Big Mouth, Mobile1 w/FilterMag, chrome wheels, AIM 2" drop, clear corners
2000 E320, 1993 Cobra R, 1959 Corvette,
1949 Plymouth Coupe

 

Lhound,
What you are reconnecting is the old plug into the new sensor that is mounted on the new housing. The old sensor is still attached to your old housing and can go into your spare parts pile.
noelvm

 

Nice! I'm so excited! This is my first performance mod, I can't wait to put it in.

Daniel

 

Thanks for the pictures,wouldn't have been able to do it without them. Can I skip the silcone it seems good and tight like it is. Louder at WOT but I'm still not happy with performance.For 360hp and blower I'm not impressed. I got to call that chip guy,Mike,on monday.Any sugestions on the chips or performance.

 

oops

[This message has been edited by Silver_2000_! (edited 09-12-2000).]

 

I skipped the silicone. What's the big deal if it falls out then I'll use the silicone.
noelvm