I happened past a car cruise on Saturday night right when it was ending(I was in my Jeep ) and they were having a burnout contest. There were some impressive showings,and some not-so-impressive showings. On the impressive side was a Buick Grand National,although the turbo sounded like a vacuum cleaner the burnout was awesome. But the killer burnout was a by a hyped up GTO,not sure what was in it(Diffinetly far from stock),but he stood on his brakes for what seemed like an eternity.
When he let off the gas...two big POPS. Both rear tires blew.He left two smoldering piles of rubber.It was cool. But even if the tires had held,what kinda damage could be done to the rear end from such activity?
I've done a couple of brake stands(not long mind you) but I know if I had had the L there I would have had to burn em,and I WOULD NOT have gone gentle into that good night! LOL

So what kindda ill effects can come from brake stands,and how long is too long? I hate to lose,but I also hate to hurt my baby

One curious Hitman

 

$600 in tire damage. I think it would be less strenuous on the drivetrain since the coefficient on sliding friction is always less than static friction. I am no expert though. When I do my burnouts at the track I let off the foot brake, and stomp on the gas for a few seconds.

My cousin did a 'burnout' in his '85 crown victoria, and promptly blew his heater core. Anti-freeze steam coated the windshield. It was winter-time too, thus the 'burnout.'

 

Everybody tells me its bad on u-joints.

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99 F-150 Sport XLT Black x-cab 4.6L auto 3.55
K&N filter and dual series 40 flowmasters

 

They can seriously damage your wallet when its time to replace those f1s. But then, most of the people on this board don't seem to have a hell of a lot of regard for their wallet.

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I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy.

'84 Alan Record Carbonio, Aerospoke wheels, Campy brakes.
'00 SVT Lightning, silver, G-tech Pro, JBA headers, cam bolts, 4.10 gears,
Swanson's chip, Pro-M. (Next - Cal-tracs)
2001 Kevlacat 2400, twin 115 Evinrude FICHT, Raytheon VHF, Radar, and Sounder/DGPS chartplotter

gmvye@pacbell.net

 

LOL, I know it will cost me in the tire dept. LOL, and unlike a lot of L owners I don't relish in buying new F1's,but alas I will be do soon. I don't want to hurt anything serious(u joints),or any other part of the rear end,just wonrdering how much is too much.

Hitman

 

Ill effects....

Inability to remove the devilish smirk from your face for several minutes, stabbing pain in your posterior in the vacinity of the wallet.

tolerable.

Speedin Bob

 

It all depends upon whether you 'shock' things -- and most importantly -- whether you have a limited-slip differential or not.

Shock, in the form of side-stepping a clutch to 'jerk' the wheels to spinning can overload the U-Joint (more on that in a bit) or overload the teeth on the ring/pinion.

Shock, in the form of spinning wheelS (both, please -- more on that later) that come to a quick stop (like you've seen those nice smoky burnouts at the strip where wet tires spin and then dry out on dry asphalt) can overload nearly everything -- and the weakest link will eventually fail. Usually in the order of:

1) spider (aka 'cross') of the differential part of the rear axle (would be the gears in the Limited Slip if so equipped)

2) Ring gear

3) Pinion gear

4) Drive Shaft (twist)

5) Axle Shaft (can twist as much as 1.5 turns before failure -- fellows used to paint a straight line down the axle shaft to monitor twist set)

6) U-Joint

Shock, in the form of spider (cross) failure due to burn-out if one wheel spins or where two wheels are spinning (like with LS) and one stops and the other does not.

U-Joint Shock (from part one above) at vehicle launch is likely if you have altered your driveshaft angle (like lifted the body without rotating the engine/trans and axle housing to compensate. There are moments, during the rotation of the drive shaft, where the shaft wobbles about the axis set up by the u-joint. Draw a picture in your mind and over-bend the thing to see where the shaft does not turn smoothly due to the angle.

For several degrees each quarter turn the angle becomes less capable of handling the torque -- and if you side-step your clutch at the right (er, wrong) time, you can launch your drive shaft (or shafts).

One more method of shocking your entire geartrain is to have your foot all the way to the floor (clutch) where everything is nice and loose -- perhaps so loose that there is space between the gears -- and then if you side-step your clutch, for a moment there is movement of one gear which then slamms against the other gear with very destructive instantaneous pulse of torque.

So...

When you do a burnout -- you want to ensure that you cause as little shock load as possible -- and do not cause 'spin-out' of your differential (where one wheel spins and the other does not) and do not have any shock in the form of going from slippery surface to a sticky surface.

For manual transmissions:

1) engage parking brake
2) bring clutch to point of slight engagement (so as to take up any slack and pre-load the springs in the suspension, etc)
3) hold your hand on the brake release
4) bring the engine up to a good RPM (3500 will be a nice starting place)
5) quickly, but at smoothly and at the same time: Release the brake, clutch, and WOT the fuel
6) watch for wheel hop (will destroy a gearset faster than anything I know)

For street burnouts, merely bring the clutch to engagement (without the parking brake method) and simply WOT and let up the clutch immediately.

You'll have a very smooth engagement of things and will have a very pleasant burnout.

For automatics - brake torqing can be tricky, since there's no way of guaranteeing that both brakes will release at the same moment -- which could cause one-wheel spins even if you have LS.

Trial and error here -- if one-wheel spins STOP IT! you'll toast your LS or burn-up your cross (spider gears) due to lack of proper lubricant during that method.

Rule of thumb -- if both wheels spin and you can do it smoothly - AND YOU'RE NOT GOING FROM A SLIPPERY SURFACE TO A STICKY ONE -- The only thing you'll kill are your tires.

One more thing -- a good mechanic (warranty cop) can tell spin-out failure and shock failure from fatigue failure.

Lastly -- if you're spinning only one tire (barely moving the vehicle) and your speedometer reads 40 MPH, your spinning wheel is going EIGHTY miles per hour -- double of speedo -- due to the differential.

Any difference in wheel-speed for LS means very very hard on LS due to the doubling of gear speed of the spinning side of the LS.

Enjoy,

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Y2K™ Jim

Toreador Red, Keyless XLT SC SB 5.4L E4x4 4wDisc/ABS, 3.73LS, Skid, HD 7700# Towing, LT-245's on Chrome, Tube-Steps, Captain's, 6CD, Tonneau, named: "Nick"

 

Jim,
Ummmm...So burnouts are bad? LOL
So what you are saying is "be careful". Ok
In my two modest burnouts both tires were undoubtedly spinning,so I'm ok there.
Burnouts are not something I'll be making a habit of,but I kindda' like knowing if I choose to participate in a contest: 1)I won't be hurting my truck. & 2)I can WIN it!!!

Thanx for that in depth response,I appreciate it!

Hitman

 

Or of course you could go the route of the Dodge R/T guys, aka " Line locks and Clorox"


he he he

GBE

 

No. Burnouts are cool!

Just do it using your head -- avoid shock.

Once the tires are spinning, (and luck enough that the wheels are not hopping) enjoy the ride! I'll enjoy the show!

It's that sudden stop that hurts .

One of my favorites about luck: If at first you don't succeed...

...sky-diving may not be for you.