MT ET Streets and Launch
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Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Northern, California
MT ET Streets and Launch
I know this is a subjective question but....any starting point suggestions for MT ET Streets at the strip: Air pressure? Burnout? Powerbrake?
Just installed Pro Torque Convertor 2400 stall. Thanks.
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1999 Lightning Black, PSP Chip, Bassani(Full), PSP Filter,
4:10 Downs, ARE, Bedrug,Goodrich T/A Drag Radials
13.25/101 idg@home.com
SVT# 2917 DOB 7-26-99
Northern CA, 98 Gold Lexus GS 400, 67 Pearl White Nova
Just installed Pro Torque Convertor 2400 stall. Thanks.
------------------
1999 Lightning Black, PSP Chip, Bassani(Full), PSP Filter,
4:10 Downs, ARE, Bedrug,Goodrich T/A Drag Radials
13.25/101 idg@home.com
SVT# 2917 DOB 7-26-99
Northern CA, 98 Gold Lexus GS 400, 67 Pearl White Nova
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 2,328
Likes: 0
From: Houston, Tx, USA
Well, we have this for the FAQ but I just checked and it doesn't seen to be up yet so here is what I've found running the MT ET Streets.
1. You do NOT have to do massive burnouts to these tires to make them hook up. All you do is spinup until they hook. I am very careful to stay well away from the rev limiter so I have never lost boost. Brake, bring tach up to 3,0000, when tires start to spin tach will start up. Let off back to 3,000. Start letting up on brake. Tires will spin and then hook. Let off. Stop. Shift to netrual. Rev to about 2500-3000 briefly two times. Creep up to lites.
Pressure over 18 tends to spin mine so I lower to 18.
Air pressure. Start at 17-18 cold. You will notice that after your run pressure is up to 20, drop to 18. Do this three times only unless you have a compressor. When your tires cool between elimination rounds 20-30 minutes you will find that the pressure has dropped to 16. Not a problem. Leave it there.
Air tires up before you go to the track to about 25 to ensure a good seal. If you are not using the tubes and none of us are you need to air the tires at least every two weeks as they will loose air and you don't want them to break the bead seal.
LAUCH- There are several theries to launch. Let's discuss several.
High RPM LAUNCH (1500 & above) The idea if your already up in the power band you don't have to spend time getting there. Most other types of cars at the track do this it must be right. Try it and keep notes. My experience is that the tires spin more, 60' times therefore do not improve and neither have my 1/8 times.
Moderate Power Brake launch 800-1000--This has been my method for the most part. My reasons are that the torque converter is locked up and all the slack is out of the drivetrain. It's easy to put the needle on the 1000 mark on the tach and I have had success at making very consistant times like 9 runs within .02 of each other in a row.
Launch from idle--One reason is if you are not getting any traction try this. If you are spinning tires your times will suck. Taking with a long time racer with a 7 sec gen 1 truck last nite and he told me to try launching from idle as everything bangs together harder producing more initial force that can improve both 60' times and total times.
If you are at a bad track and can't stick anywhere, as we have incountered at LSR several times, stop, remove slicks, and open a cold beer.
noelvm
1. You do NOT have to do massive burnouts to these tires to make them hook up. All you do is spinup until they hook. I am very careful to stay well away from the rev limiter so I have never lost boost. Brake, bring tach up to 3,0000, when tires start to spin tach will start up. Let off back to 3,000. Start letting up on brake. Tires will spin and then hook. Let off. Stop. Shift to netrual. Rev to about 2500-3000 briefly two times. Creep up to lites.
Pressure over 18 tends to spin mine so I lower to 18.
Air pressure. Start at 17-18 cold. You will notice that after your run pressure is up to 20, drop to 18. Do this three times only unless you have a compressor. When your tires cool between elimination rounds 20-30 minutes you will find that the pressure has dropped to 16. Not a problem. Leave it there.
Air tires up before you go to the track to about 25 to ensure a good seal. If you are not using the tubes and none of us are you need to air the tires at least every two weeks as they will loose air and you don't want them to break the bead seal.
LAUCH- There are several theries to launch. Let's discuss several.
High RPM LAUNCH (1500 & above) The idea if your already up in the power band you don't have to spend time getting there. Most other types of cars at the track do this it must be right. Try it and keep notes. My experience is that the tires spin more, 60' times therefore do not improve and neither have my 1/8 times.
Moderate Power Brake launch 800-1000--This has been my method for the most part. My reasons are that the torque converter is locked up and all the slack is out of the drivetrain. It's easy to put the needle on the 1000 mark on the tach and I have had success at making very consistant times like 9 runs within .02 of each other in a row.
Launch from idle--One reason is if you are not getting any traction try this. If you are spinning tires your times will suck. Taking with a long time racer with a 7 sec gen 1 truck last nite and he told me to try launching from idle as everything bangs together harder producing more initial force that can improve both 60' times and total times.
If you are at a bad track and can't stick anywhere, as we have incountered at LSR several times, stop, remove slicks, and open a cold beer.
noelvm