A note:
All computers generate radio frequencies.
Thats why Pc's and commercial computers are most always shielded in a METAL case to restrict rf "leakage". If plastic is incorporated it must have a electrical shielding laminate embeded in the plastic.
Computer chips themselves generate electrical
signals that if not electrically contained will interfere with OTHER electrical circuits. Hope this helps...
Georgia_Moon

 

Cobra99, I don't think the flipchip wire is the problem. It most likely has only a low voltage DC signal on it.

BOOSTING-DAVE you are right about the tape, but the high cost of shielding tape (You are taking about embossed copper with conductive adhesive, right?) is why I suggested using aluminum foil.

SCOTTODOG, the antenna lead is co-axial, a conductor routed inside a wire braid, meaning it is already shielded. The reason the metal tape you used did not help is probably because the adhesive was not conductive, and the tape was not well grounded. For a shield to be effective it needs to be grounded and it should be a continuous piece or at least look that way electrically at the frequencies you are trying to shield against.

Try using the aluminum foil to cover the chip module where it sticks out of the computer and make sure to run a good ground wire to it. Preferably a short piece of heavy gage wire. (You don't need the heavy gage for current, you need it for maximum surface area to better drain off the high frequency interference.)

Anybody find out the clock frequency yet?

 

I don't have this problem, but I have a PSP chip in my lightning.

I bet I don't have the problem simply because I mounted my chip INSIDE the computer so it's sheilded, I don't think you can do that with a superchip.

Just my$.02

Brad

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* 99.5 Black Lightning
* Personal Best ¼ Mile 13.82 @ 99.98 Mph
* Ohio Plate SVT2GO
* Sal’s Chip and Filter
* Interceptor Trans
* All three Factory options for 99
* Factory CD Changer
* Class 3 Towing Hitch
* Factory Tonneau Cover
* 8" Bazooka Tubs
* Kenwood 80 watt *2 amp
* Viper 550 Alarm w/ remote start
* 97 F-150 Extended Cab 4.2L V-6 daily driver

Injection is nice, but I'd rather be blown. 99 Lightning, the best of both worlds!

 

I think you guys are on the right track. I did not have this problem until I took my chip (PSP) out of the box and installed it like a Superchip on the outside (as Sal's instructions say not to). I'm going to put it back in the box and check it out.

Jerry

 

Let us know what you find out. Has anyone tried shielding the chip yet????

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2000 F-150 4x4 SC Short box. Loaded to the max.. Superchip,Borla exhaust, K+N.. More to come.


2000 SVT WHITE LIGHTNING...
Superchip
air raid
Piaa head lamp bulbs
bassinni cat pipes and cat back.

 

Hawkeye- Your Right about the Shielding tape its a Silver/Aluminum foil tape with a conductive adhesive backing. The offer stands about someone in San Diego area who wants to try the tape let me know. I think I have a half of roll around here somewere?

Dave

 

I don't have this problem either,radio receiption is good,always was.I have an S.H.M. chip

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2000 silver Lightning,Pioneer speakers,Pioneer GM-x334 280 watt amp.S.H.M.Chip
and MAF combo,Pendaliner
"Nascar Trucks"under rail bedliner,X-Tang bedcover,Window Tint 20%


,

 

cobra99 hit it on the head. After covering the computer chip about 6 times I got pissed and moved the switch wire and when it gets close to the frame,antenna wire or any elect. wire the static comes in when I move it so that it isn't touching anything the static goes away. Now to figure how to cover the switch wire so that it doesn't cause static.

 

Since it sounds like Sals chip is in a different package than Superchip does anyone have a picture ??

DOug

 

That's interesting about the wire to the switch causing the problem. I don't recall ever seeing a digital system that had a pulse train on a control line, but obviously the Super Chip does, or at least digital noise from within the chip module is coupled onto the control wire. Either way it looks like it's been found.

I haven't chipped my L yet so I haven't seen the wire that goes to the switch. What does it look like, is it a dual conductor like speaker wire or single conductor like a radio power lead? Maybe it could be changed to shielded wire so that the routing is not so critical.


[This message has been edited by Hawkeye (edited 06-16-2000).]

 

Spoke to Mike today about shielding the switch said thats a tough one. Never heard that before.. Said to shield the switch using a UMF Filter and pass the wires through it. He said he was gonna call superchip. Since lightning use the flip chip...

Also where did you install the switch and move it too>>>>
??? Scottodog




------------------
2000 F-150 4x4 SC Short box. Loaded to the max.. Superchip,Borla exhaust, K+N.. More to come.


2000 SVT WHITE LIGHTNING...
Superchip
air raid
Piaa head lamp bulbs
bassinni cat pipes and cat back.

 

Did anyone try any thing yet???

------------------
2000 F-150 4x4 SC Short box. Loaded to the max.. Superchip,Borla exhaust, K+N.. More to come.


2000 SVT WHITE LIGHTNING...
Superchip
air raid
Piaa head lamp bulbs
bassinni cat pipes and cat back.

 

I installed my switch through the hole in the dash frame just below the glove box. I bent the frame so that the hole was up under the dash. Now its taped in a ball so that it isn't touching anything so I can hear the radio.

 

And here I was thinking I was the only one with this problem.

SCOTTODOG,glad to hear you have it worked out, I guess your happy with the chip Can you make it for the Mod-shootout?

Spiro-TEAM PSP

 

SCOTTODOG, that's very interesting that balling up the wire helped with the noise. It confirms what I speculated about earlier, the control signal going to the switch is a DC voltage and it is noise from inside the Super Chip module that is getting on the wire and causing the radio interference.

Actually this is good. If there was a signal on the wire causing the problem it would be hard to filter the interference without blocking the signal, but since it's noise simply winding up the wire into a ball can do it, as you found out.

For those who want to keep the switch closer to the driver and have to leave the wire stretched out try running it through a ferrite core. Steal the one on off that old computer cable you have laying around. It's the lump molded in the cable near one end. After you free up the core run the wire through it and put it as near the chip as you can. If you don't have a computer cable to take one from try Radio Shack. They sell a clamp around ferrite core that should work.

If you have enough excess length wrap the wire through the core several times, the more the better.

[This message has been edited by Hawkeye (edited 06-17-2000).]