I know this may be a lame question, but I've got to ask.

My Lexus LS has 143000 and is still like new.
Every 50K I have put slick 50 in wtih the oil. I don't know if that's really been the reason it's still runs so great but the fact remains it still works as beautifully as the day I got it.

With three weeks till my Black L arrives I am planning all the things I want to do to it.

I am certain I will change the oilafter the first 1500. Should I add Slick 50 to an engine like the L's? Also, should I also change the transmission fluid after that first 1500?

Any answers, opinions, etc is greatly appreciated.

Also, thanks to all who responded to my first post. This Message board is great.

PS to "adp" love your L. I plan to get the snug top lo-pro and bed rug just like yours.
It's awesome. GO Air Force!

 

Some swear by the Slick 50. I myself feel it is snake oil. Too long to get into.

------------------
Red '00 Lightning,
Adopted 4/19/00,
Power Surge Performance enhanced,
Sound effects provided by Flowmaster,
Track time pending...

 

kobaishi,

IMHO, You couldn't PAY me to put slick 50 in an engine. They have been ordered by the Feds to remove the statement that it "improves performance." Have you ever seen Slick 50 boiled down?, looks like a nasty loogie in the bottom of old oil. NO WAY. I'm a fan of Prolong (Not in my "L") but am SERIOULSY considering Z-MAX as it uses linkite to remove carbon deposits from the engine and cylinder walls. Linkite has been used in aviation engines or years. Those engines have to perform, period.

As far as oil, after my break-in of 1500 vairable speed miles and no WOT, I use Mobil One 5W30 exclusively. Additionally, I use a FilterMag. It is a 1300 gauss magnet that attaches to your filter. It pulls ferous metal particles our of your oil smaller than red blood cells (cannot remember the size). I cut open the filter at each oil change and it looks like graphite along the area where the magnet was. It cost $50 and it is definitley worth it. I will try to find a site that sells them.

I have not changed the tranny fluid yet and have 9200 miles on "Capt Crunch" to date.

Just my $.02.



------------------
See ya at the Apex,

Speedin Bob
'99 "Pi$$ed Off" Red Lightning #2504
NLOC # 438
13.98 @ 98 mph (Rookie Session)
Latest Mods:
Airaid w/ S&B Powerstack filter retrofit
Clear Corners & Tails
Bug Shield
Duraliner (first addition)

 

I've been watching the late-night informercials, too, and I've wondered about Z-Max as well. It sounds good, but I'm really hesitant to put any additive into the L.

However, the fact that Avblend is FAA certified, is interesting. As you noted, aircraft motor HAVE to stay running, and I can't see the FAA approving snake oil.

------------------
Regards,
Gordon

99.5 Red Lightning
Only driven on Sundays (1/4 mile at a time)

 

Keep in mind that the FAA is in the aircraft business. They dont have the ability to do empiracle testing. They are in the paperwork business.

Former FAA Repairman

Doug

 

In a past life I worked with "lubrication engineers," a term I still find incredibly amusing for some reason. Anyway, their general opinion was that you find a good motor oil and use it with NO additives because the additives screw up the molecular "package" as designed by the oil company.

They said good conventional oil like Castrol GTX would work just fine 99.9% of the time, but for that 0.1% remaining you'd be really glad to have synthetic. To think of it as insurance... and that the most critical thing was to have an excellent filter with an anti-drainback valve.

They also said to stay away from oils with a viscosity range of 30 points or more because it uses too many viscosity indexers or VIs. It seems that these long-chain polymer molecules curl and uncurl as the temperature changes. The tighter the viscosity range, the shorter the VI chain. Long chains in the wide viscosity range oils are more prone to shear and breakdown in the motor. So oils with smaller viscosity ranges break down more slowly and maintain their design characteristics longer.

Based on these recommendations I've used Mobil 1 10w30 in EVERYTHING (though I don't have the temperature range considerations that some of you guys do). Nothing else. And even after dumping 7 quarts of coolant into the oil pan and driving 80 miles (blown head gasket on the '95), I've never had a oiling-related failure.

Just my couple-of-nickles on the subject.


------------------
Later!
Jeff S.
http://nloc.org
SVT Lightning #74 in '95 - 11.92@115.2 on radials, driven daily
SVT Lightning #?? in '00 - 13.68@99.5 STOCK (except for the Jack In The Box antenna ball power option)
fmosracing@aol.com

 

FMOS,

"Lubrication Engineers" :0 Now I have heard everything ROFLMAO. I won't even start.

However, Your post makes sense to me.

I guess I'm the only one with the Filermag. I am happy with the Filtermag and like the "warm and fuzzy" of it pulling all the particles out of the oil. It turly needs to be seent to be appreciated.



------------------
See ya at the Apex,

Speedin Bob
'99 "Pi$$ed Off" Red Lightning #2504
NLOC # 438
13.98 @ 98 mph (Rookie Session)
Latest Mods:
Airaid w/ S&B Powerstack filter retrofit
Clear Corners & Tails
Bug Shield
Duraliner (first addition)

 

Those mags are scarry when you look at them. They work well, but when you see what they pull out it kinda makes you wonder whats coming apart. I won't use slick 50, most of the teflon just clogs the filter. Most of the infomercials are just sales pitches that could make maple syrup look like the ultimate additive (prolong is the king of this). Pick one of there test and I'll tell you how they do it! Z max may be OK, no obvious BS there. Best advise no one will argue is quality oil and filter change as often as possible.

 

I'd really like to know how they drive that Viper around the track with no oil in it. It's an interesting commercial, but I'll stick with Mobil 1.
noelvm

 

Clorine is super sticky and it does bond at the atomic level to steel. So it will lubricate with no oil. FWIW I really think it ain't their VIPER, rental IMO and who knows how long it did last or if they did not have some other type of oil system. Look how much money prolong has made. I'm sure they could have rigged up a dry sump dual bottom pan of some sort. If they were up and up where arre the independent test?

 

Just got an email from Chris, the guy who does all the oil testing that was posted awhile back. Asked about additives. Here is his reply............

Joy... I'm a guru :-)

And yes I agree that Slick 50 and Prolong is crap since PTFEs in suspension do more harm than good usually...

I've heard a little propaganda on Z-MAX and stuff, but I looked up linkite in the Boeing material database and there isn't any standards or anything listed at all. That leads me to believe that it's not supported by the big guys and hence I'd need to see more data from a third party to even consider it myself...

I've crowned Chris as my resident "Oil Guru"
noelvm

 

What is clorine? It's not on the periodic table or in my CRC Handbook.

If you're actually meaning chlorine then everything is way off. Chlorine is a gas at room temp, imagine the vap pressure in the engines heat. It is not a sticky lubricant either. It is not stable by itself and is held in bleach (for a short time) by raising the pH above 12. Anything less and it comes off as a gas.
If it is a trade name for some other chemical then I may be off.

------------------
all4chem@aol.com
Y2K XLT Supercab Flareside, Oxford White, Medium Graphite, Captains Chairs, 6-Disc, 5.4L, 3.55LS, Tow Pkg, Block Heater, Sliding Glass, Keyless Entry, 5-Spoke Al Wheels, P235/70R-16 OWL Tires, Clear Corner Lenses, Eaglite Plasma Headlights, Al Striker Plates for the rear doors, Oxford White Lund Interceptor, Line-X Liner.
Ordered: 01-17-00
Built: 02-23-00
Delivered: 03-13-00

 

clorine. let's see....You take your trusty A.C. Gilbert Chemistry Set and 75% charcoal, 15% sulphur, 10% saltpeter, no that's gunpowder. never mind.

 

All bad! Slick 50 false claims, Prolong contains clorine, a well know lubercant that really does bond with steel, with the major disadvantage of eating away seals! Snake Oil!