Polyurethane Bushings
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From: The People's Republic of Los Angeles
Originally Posted by TrackBeast
. . . Can be quite expensive . . .
Originally Posted by TrackBeast
. . . I also epoxy coated them to keep them pretty. . .
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Originally Posted by Tim Skelton
Why? Sounds like a low-tech $20 job to me.
This has to be done with precision otherwise the ball joint would be on an angle. The shop were mine were done designs casting moulds for Mercedes V-8 engines. The spindles were mounted on a multi-million $ machine. My buddy even corrected the variance in tolerances between the right and left side. Allot of money for such a crude piece.
TB
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From: NJ
Originally Posted by TrackBeast
Once I had ordered and received them, I voiced my concerns to their tech/sales dept. and their response was that If I was "that" concerned about safety with their spindle with the non-locking slim nut that I should not use it.
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From: Arizona
Originally Posted by Tim Skelton
The ones on my 2002 stock control arms are badly dried and cracked. They were only on the truck for about a year, but the rubber should dry out the same whether on the truck or not.
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From: The People's Republic of Los Angeles
Originally Posted by TrackBeast
. . . This has to be done with precision otherwise the ball joint would be on an angle. . .
Originally Posted by TrackBeast
C'mon Tim, how much legal advice do you provide for $20? . . .
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From: Connecticut
Originally Posted by TrackBeast
You need to machine 1/8" from the bottom of the spindle. Can be quite expensive if you don't have a buddy working at a machine shop. I also epoxy coated them to keep them pretty.
Once I had ordered and received them, I voiced my concerns to their tech/sales dept. and their response was that If I was "that" concerned about safety with their spindle with the non-locking slim nut that I should not use it. At that point it was already at the machine shop and if my machinist friend didn't confirm 100% that it was safe, I wanted to shove them down this guys throat.
TB
Once I had ordered and received them, I voiced my concerns to their tech/sales dept. and their response was that If I was "that" concerned about safety with their spindle with the non-locking slim nut that I should not use it. At that point it was already at the machine shop and if my machinist friend didn't confirm 100% that it was safe, I wanted to shove them down this guys throat.
TB
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I carefully measured the threaded portion of the ball joint and removed 1/8" from the bottom of the spindle. There was enough thread on the ball joint to remove even more but I decided that this was sufficient. Another simpler option would be to countersink the castle nut. This would work just as well.
The ball joint stem was drilled for the cotter pin and in order to clear my stick on weights on the wheels, the full size castle nut was grinded down a bit along with the stem. This has no effect on the strenght of it all because the strength isn't in the castle portion and the cotter pin is still solidly in place. The spindles were epoxy coated to keep them looking pretty.
TB
Essentially, if you look at the picture in the previous posting and add 1/4 to 5/16" of clearance.
The ball joint stem was drilled for the cotter pin and in order to clear my stick on weights on the wheels, the full size castle nut was grinded down a bit along with the stem. This has no effect on the strenght of it all because the strength isn't in the castle portion and the cotter pin is still solidly in place. The spindles were epoxy coated to keep them looking pretty.
TB
Essentially, if you look at the picture in the previous posting and add 1/4 to 5/16" of clearance.
Last edited by TrackBeast; Jun 20, 2006 at 02:40 PM.