Tim,
If memory serves me correct,I used a pickle fork on my air chisel.Kinda like opening a paint can,1 side at a time.If that was just a dream,then I used a fat screwdriver to pry the end cap off.Just look thru the center to see the location of the cap..

 

If you intend to use the 18" wheels on the track, you may want to machine the spindles 1/8" at the bottom in order to use the full size castly nut. Worked like a charm. This isn't optimal for the track but I've gone back to the stock springs(no real choice out there that I've found) front and back and this is turning out to be a really nice compromise. With everything being polyurethane and some stiffening modifications on the mounting of the Hotchkis and Hellwig sway bars, (Custom near solid Links) combined with the adjustable shocks, some softening of the suspension was necessary for weight transfer. Good track rule: " As stiff as necessary ans as soft as possible". NASCAR rubber inserts do a good job of incresing front spring rate. I will test with 2 per spring next time out.


TB

 

Are there any companies out there making tubular upper and lower control arms for our trucks?

 

Yes. Western Chassis, DJM and I think Belltech. They are used mainly to drop a vehicle and allow you to keep the stock length springs. Spindles do this also much more easily. What is your goal?

 

Nothing really. I was just wondering. Might save some weight...

 

Not sure how much weight you would save, others may want to comment on this. The tubular control arms (aftermarket) weren't really designed for weight saving but really for drops. Its very different for the ones for BMW's or even Mustangs.

 

The DJM arms weigh about the same as stock. The Western Chassis ones are similarly constructed, so I would expect their weight to be about the same.

 

i found one oter company that makes them, and the uppers are adjustable, but no idea on the weight.

tim, any idea on the weight of the stock uppers? stock lowers?

 

The DJM arms are 4 lbs heavier than stock (DJM lower 22 vs. stock 21, DJM upper 8 vs. stock 5).

With the spindle/rotor, caliper, and wheel/tire, the unsprung weight on each front corner is (gulp) about 170 lbs.

 

Anyone here know about how long the stock rubber bushings are good for, in a severely hot climate? Mine are 7 years old w/ 101k on the clock...

 

The ones on my 2002 stock control arms are badly dried and cracked. They were only on the truck for about a year, but the rubber should dry out the same whether on the truck or not.

 

Are they ever going to fix that design flaw?

 

They had told me that they won't and they don't see it as a flaw. They said to use the Mickey Mouse non-locking nut supplied or use bigger wheels. Anyways I did it right and fixed their issues.
TB

 

Brilliant.

How hard was it to correct the issue?

 

You need to machine 1/8" from the bottom of the spindle. Can be quite expensive if you don't have a buddy working at a machine shop. I also epoxy coated them to keep them pretty.

Once I had ordered and received them, I voiced my concerns to their tech/sales dept. and their response was that If I was "that" concerned about safety with their spindle with the non-locking slim nut that I should not use it. At that point it was already at the machine shop and if my machinist friend didn't confirm 100% that it was safe, I wanted to shove them down this guys throat.

TB