to quote you:
__________________________

"The old wives tale that an engine will not breakin with synthetic oil is BULL*****."
___________________________

I am very interested in putting synthetics in but when to do it is the question. I have heard and read that one should not use synthetics until 10,000 miles on the engine and I have hear and read the opposit.

I have e-mail both Mobil 1 and Redline for a response but neither have answered back.

You seem certain that there is no need to have 1000's of miles on the engine before synthetics. Is this just your gut feeling or do you have information from a great source. And if you do, where did it come from? I would love to read it.



------------------
Jim

jim@jimshaw.cc
www.cars-n-trucks.com/lightning.htm
Black 00, Superchip, clear fronts
Airaid, chrome wheels, ordered 2" shackles
2000 E320
1993 Cobra R
1959 Corvette
1949 Plymouth
Looking for a better paying job to support my L

 

I talked with Mobil on their 800 number and they told me that synthetic oil does not hinder breakin and could be run from the beginning. If it did hinder breakin why do they put it in brand new corvettes (and others) at the factory. We have about 10 L's in are group and we are all running syn oil most from the first change. I think you can find the toll free number for mobil on their website. That's where I found it awhile ago. Try getting a number for redline and talk to them, I'd be courious as to what they say. Redline sent an email to me saying their oil could be run 10000 miles with a filter change and 1 qt top off at 5000 miles. I'm looking for a local supplier of their oil now as they seen to have a superior product.
noelvm

 

Thanks for the info.

I'll get a hold of them

------------------
Jim

jim@jimshaw.cc
www.cars-n-trucks.com/lightning.htm
Black 00, Superchip, clear fronts
Airaid, chrome wheels, ordered 2" shackles
2000 E320
1993 Cobra R
1959 Corvette
1949 Plymouth
Looking for a better paying job to support my L

 

I put Amsoil in at the first oil change. If you look at the tag on your diff cover it says synth oil only. so the diff has synthetic from the factory. The only bad thing that I've heard about synthetic oil is that you shouldn't run it in a flat tappet motor because it dosen't cling to parts like reg oil.

 

I would like to eat my words on a post that I made 3 days ago, I posted that my stepbrother did some research on oil and found that almost any oil is the same as the next.

Crunch crunch crunch, <- me eating my own words here.

I just replaced my oil with Royal Purple 10w-30 and I can tell immediately that it runs somewhat better. The L seems to run easier, I mean every now and then it would stumble, not any more, well 2 days at least.

At $10 bucks a quart it better.

All comments made are my opinion and I'm not liable for my own actions.

 

Well F1, if you can eat words, I need to also. I posted derogatory statements against dyno testing and those who do it based on, as I now see, somewhat dated (10 yrs) knowledge of dynos. It appears that modern technology has enabled current generation dynos to be calibrated in a reliable manner. I apologize to all whom I offended.
crunch, crunch, crunch...........
noelvm

 

I had a 92 GMC typhoon and it came from the factory with Mobil synthetic and the valve seals did not seat properly. After time the rig would have a puff of smoke at startup.

I also was on the Sy Ty list and other members had the same problem.

But, then again that was in made in 92 and I am not sure if motors are built differently now.

Thanks

------------------
Vern

99.5 Lightning (black)
Alpine CDA-7941
Diamond Audio M551
MTX Thunderforms
RF 600a4
Airaid intake for sale
Bassani Cat-Pipe
Borla Cat-Back
JBA headers Jet Black
PSP Air Filter
Superchip

 

noelvm

I just got of the phone with RedLine. They said that one should wait intil the rings have seated. They also said that rings are almost always seated at the factory but to be safe wait until 500 or maybe 1000 miles are on the engine.

I also asked about some people complaining about leakage after using syn. They said that if the seals are good there will no problem. The problem arises when the seals aren't good.




------------------
Jim

jim@jimshaw.cc
www.cars-n-trucks.com/lightning.htm
Black 00, Superchip, clear fronts
Airaid, chrome wheels, ordered 2" shackles
2000 E320
1993 Cobra R
1959 Corvette
1949 Plymouth
Looking for a better paying job to support my L

 

VINDICATION IS A WONDERFUL THING, AIN'T IT!!!
noelvm


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99.5 Red Ligntning, Syn Oil, Eldebrock 5512 muffler, BFG drag radials, Bugflector, G&H Lens covers,
70 Vette LS-6




[This message has been edited by noelvm (edited 05-22-2000).]

 

F1 Car, arn't we supposed to run 5W30?

 

I too run 10W-30 Royal Purple. Yes we are supposed to use 5W-30, but have yet to find anyone in Austin that stocks it. Not that big of a difference betweem the two. I actually used 20W-50 on my 2nd oil change but felt like that was too extreme. The improvement that it made was actually noticeable over Castrol Syntec, even to an oil sceptic like myself. Just felt more comfortable going with 10W-30 on my last change though.

 

If I could ask Ford one question, it would be to grill the guys who selected 5W30. It pains me everytime I think about it. Here in Texas it's already steaming hot. My only protection if everything melts down is my extended warranty and if it does. I will find out who made the call. I ran 20W50 in my last L except in the winter when I ran 10W40. I never had any problems or worries.
noelvm


------------------
99.5 Red Ligntning, Syn Oil, Eldebrock 5512 muffler, BFG drag radials, Bugflector, G&H Lens covers,
70 Vette LS-6

 

Hi All,

Maybe I'm backwards on this one but I thought that the 10-w30 was 10 is thin as the oil got in summertime (bad thing) and 30 was as thick as it got in the wintertime (bad thing also).

I'm not so sure that 5w is a good thing here in Texas, at best not too thick or thin. Probably a constant 20 weight would be best at all temperatures, JMHO.

Best ask someone other than me or my stepbrother, I know that I’ll mis-spell this one but it was a study on elasticity between car oil and motorcycle oil. I posted incorrectly, me bad.

 

Your protection is following the owners manual. What you are doing is voiding your warranty. The old school of heavy weight oils and Motor Honey, STP, etc. no longer applies. These newer engines tolerances are a lot tighter and require the lighter oil to get into those closer tolerances. Besides, you lose HP pumping that grease around.


------------------
Red '00 Lightning,
Adopted 4/19/00,
PSP Filter,
Sound effects provided by Flowmaster,
Track time pending...

 

If my memeory is correct 5-30 weight oil has a viscosity of 5 at a temperature of 0 degrees Celsius (32 F)
and a viscosity of 30 at 100 degrees Celsius (212 degrees F). With our trucks heavy duty cooling systems, water, transmision, and oil we should not have any cooling problems. These systems are built for high GVW applications that put a lot of stress and heat on drive train components. Heavier oil is not as quick to flow and takes more power to move. Trust the Ford guys on this one. Just my opinion.