Are Lightning's Made To Be Run Hard?
After being on this site for a while I have noticed that a lot of new L owners seem to be hard on their L's. I seem to drive my L at normal speeds and occassionaly race from red light to red light. My question is are the lighting's made to be run hard quite often? Does running the L's at WOT hard on the engine? I am hoping that SVT would know that L owners would run their trucks often and build a truck to handle it. Thanks, HANKFAN
Break it in fast and it will run fast. Everyone that I know that has one is going to the drag strip at least once a month. Only blown engines that I have seen have heen one or two right out of the factory.
nave fun.
noelvm
nave fun.
noelvm
I beat my like a red headed step child and every day it asks for more without complaint.
10000 Miles now.....
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* 99.5 Black Lightning
* Personal Best ¼ Mile 13.82 @ 99.98 Mph
* Ohio Plate SVT2GO
* Sal’s Chip and Filter
* Interceptor Trans
* All three Factory options for 99
* Factory CD Changer
* Class 3 Towing Hitch
* Factory Tonneau Cover
* 8" Bazooka Tubs
* Kenwood 80 watt *2 amp
* Viper 550 Alarm w/ remote start
* 97 F-150 Extended Cab 4.2L V-6 daily driver
Injection is nice, but I'd rather be blown. 99 Lightning, the best of both worlds!
10000 Miles now.....
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* 99.5 Black Lightning
* Personal Best ¼ Mile 13.82 @ 99.98 Mph
* Ohio Plate SVT2GO
* Sal’s Chip and Filter
* Interceptor Trans
* All three Factory options for 99
* Factory CD Changer
* Class 3 Towing Hitch
* Factory Tonneau Cover
* 8" Bazooka Tubs
* Kenwood 80 watt *2 amp
* Viper 550 Alarm w/ remote start
* 97 F-150 Extended Cab 4.2L V-6 daily driver
Injection is nice, but I'd rather be blown. 99 Lightning, the best of both worlds!
I always give it a few WOT runs before 500 miles.After 500 miles you should "drive it like you stole it".Or at least drive is as you will be normally.You do not have to break in new vechicles like you used to.On the other hand,These vechicles actually wake right up around 3000 miles.Do not baby them,you will be disapointed
noelvm and Lightningquick:
I always get a laugh when people say break it in hard and they will run fast. I have no idea where anyone ever came up with that theory. My question to that is: Have you or anyone else for that matter taken 2 identical brand new vehicles and taken then to a track and run numerous times and obtained baseline data? Then run one vehicle hard, and the other babied, then after both were broken in, bring them back to a track and again run them numerous times and again obtain factual data? Well I can tell you I have never in my life seen such testing performed.
Lightningquick, I see you indicate that your 99 ran 1 tenth of a second quicker, well, we all know that is not much of a variation in time that can be affected by many variables during the run, so I don't know that you really know that your 99 was faster.
I personally would love to see someone conduct the above tests and also to do a long term study on the reliability/life of a motor being broken in properly and "hard".
I can tell you this though, when a new motor is built the cylinders are bored and honed leaving a rougher finish on the walls of the cylinders than after the breakin has occured. There are numerous other items I could discuss internally within the motor, but I won't go into that. Now, it is a very basic fundamental fact that two objects in contact with one another in motion will create friction. Friction will create heat, therefore when a motor is not broken in, it will generate more heat than a motor that is broken in. There are so many things that can occur that will decrease the life expectancy or reliability of the motor if it is not broken in properly. There is a reason that a manufacturer has a recommended breakin schedule, and contrary to some peoples belief, it is not so they don't have to warranty many items.
Not flaming you guys in any way, I just am not one that believes in hearsay.
And also, I took my Lightning and ran it at the track after only 250 miles on the odometer. Do I believe I took away some life from the motor?--yes. But will I keep it more than 3 years?--probably not. Do I believe mine runs better than the other Lightnings in the Phoenix area?--No, infact the other guys were posting better times than I.
[This message has been edited by Peter B (edited 05-19-2000).]
[This message has been edited by Peter B (edited 05-19-2000).]
I always get a laugh when people say break it in hard and they will run fast. I have no idea where anyone ever came up with that theory. My question to that is: Have you or anyone else for that matter taken 2 identical brand new vehicles and taken then to a track and run numerous times and obtained baseline data? Then run one vehicle hard, and the other babied, then after both were broken in, bring them back to a track and again run them numerous times and again obtain factual data? Well I can tell you I have never in my life seen such testing performed.
Lightningquick, I see you indicate that your 99 ran 1 tenth of a second quicker, well, we all know that is not much of a variation in time that can be affected by many variables during the run, so I don't know that you really know that your 99 was faster.
I personally would love to see someone conduct the above tests and also to do a long term study on the reliability/life of a motor being broken in properly and "hard".
I can tell you this though, when a new motor is built the cylinders are bored and honed leaving a rougher finish on the walls of the cylinders than after the breakin has occured. There are numerous other items I could discuss internally within the motor, but I won't go into that. Now, it is a very basic fundamental fact that two objects in contact with one another in motion will create friction. Friction will create heat, therefore when a motor is not broken in, it will generate more heat than a motor that is broken in. There are so many things that can occur that will decrease the life expectancy or reliability of the motor if it is not broken in properly. There is a reason that a manufacturer has a recommended breakin schedule, and contrary to some peoples belief, it is not so they don't have to warranty many items.
Not flaming you guys in any way, I just am not one that believes in hearsay.
And also, I took my Lightning and ran it at the track after only 250 miles on the odometer. Do I believe I took away some life from the motor?--yes. But will I keep it more than 3 years?--probably not. Do I believe mine runs better than the other Lightnings in the Phoenix area?--No, infact the other guys were posting better times than I.
[This message has been edited by Peter B (edited 05-19-2000).]
[This message has been edited by Peter B (edited 05-19-2000).]
I tend to agree with Peter on some points. I have never seen a "proven" test on two identical vehicles. I would tend to think if you break it in easy like the manufacture states, your engine life would be longer. This is my opinion based on less stress to components. I also tend to think if you run it hard, things would loosen up more. Maybe more power? I can tell you I still own a 1992 F-150 short bed with a 5.0. It has 160,000 miles and doesn't burn a drop of oil. I broke it in slowwww and easy. I also put Slick 50 in every 40,000 miles. I'm not saying what I did is the way to do it. I am saying I'm trying to do it this way on this vehicle. I figure if it worked for me the first time it'll probably work again.
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Just my opinion no flames either and i respect your opinion.
My trucks I usually drive so so for 500 miles and then i drive them hard.I do not abuse the drivetrain (well sometimes i do
)My point is my trucks always seem(ARE) a little faster then the average truck of the same make/model/engine.Im not lying or bragging,Im just stating fact.Do you know how many people at my local track know me for being able to get every last hp squeezed out of a vechicle?It could be my driving too,I understand that but ,Every vechicle that i have seen drivin hard is always faster and usually doesnt break.Ive seen plenty of babied vechicles not break either.The truth is My experience is if you take a babied vechicle and start pounding it,It will break.The first things to go are (waterpump,hoses,transmissions ,and fuel pumps)You can say what you wish but iVe seen it so many times.The parts themselves are not used to Being brought up to temp so quickly and for extended amounts of time.This is where you see failure.Not when it is driven the same and all the parts are used to these paramiters.Do you know how many times Ive driven a car home from the auction and Ive beat on it? Almost every time I do the water pump lets go.Perfect example of a babied car not used to the heat from a good pounding.
Ive had plenty experences at the track and plenty of new vechicles to know what I am talking about.
94 ranger 4 cyl....I dont know times but it was a slow *** POS.That thing was beat HARD for 50,000 miles in one year then traded.
96 vortec 350 choo choo custom
14.9@91mph average that day..High 15s same vechicles without ground effects!!
95 f150xlt 5.0 auto 16.4 average that day 16.8-17.0
99 silverado 5.3 14.60s minor mods....average last year low 15s(smoked many R/Ts and even kept up with a lightning to 70mph and from 55-128 (my truck shuts off)
99 Lightning 13.2@104 and a 105 .As we all know that is definatly a fast time for just a chip/filter also ran a 13.8 stock which is fast for a stock lightnig of last year.
One other thing I have noticed is,It seems to me (even though mine is slow) Most 2000s are a little quicker stock and alot more consistant from run to run!than 99s
My trucks I usually drive so so for 500 miles and then i drive them hard.I do not abuse the drivetrain (well sometimes i do
)My point is my trucks always seem(ARE) a little faster then the average truck of the same make/model/engine.Im not lying or bragging,Im just stating fact.Do you know how many people at my local track know me for being able to get every last hp squeezed out of a vechicle?It could be my driving too,I understand that but ,Every vechicle that i have seen drivin hard is always faster and usually doesnt break.Ive seen plenty of babied vechicles not break either.The truth is My experience is if you take a babied vechicle and start pounding it,It will break.The first things to go are (waterpump,hoses,transmissions ,and fuel pumps)You can say what you wish but iVe seen it so many times.The parts themselves are not used to Being brought up to temp so quickly and for extended amounts of time.This is where you see failure.Not when it is driven the same and all the parts are used to these paramiters.Do you know how many times Ive driven a car home from the auction and Ive beat on it? Almost every time I do the water pump lets go.Perfect example of a babied car not used to the heat from a good pounding.Ive had plenty experences at the track and plenty of new vechicles to know what I am talking about.
94 ranger 4 cyl....I dont know times but it was a slow *** POS.That thing was beat HARD for 50,000 miles in one year then traded.
96 vortec 350 choo choo custom
14.9@91mph average that day..High 15s same vechicles without ground effects!!
95 f150xlt 5.0 auto 16.4 average that day 16.8-17.0
99 silverado 5.3 14.60s minor mods....average last year low 15s(smoked many R/Ts and even kept up with a lightning to 70mph and from 55-128 (my truck shuts off)
99 Lightning 13.2@104 and a 105 .As we all know that is definatly a fast time for just a chip/filter also ran a 13.8 stock which is fast for a stock lightnig of last year.
One other thing I have noticed is,It seems to me (even though mine is slow) Most 2000s are a little quicker stock and alot more consistant from run to run!than 99s
PeterB..... nice post.
LQ you are so full of $--t
You are such a Hypocrite.
Everybody is entitled to there own opinion, but a least keep yours consistent.
What happen to "I Beat em from mile one" on your previous post..... now your a proponent of a 500 mile break in period????? Aren't you the guy that did a pick up race with someone with only 80 miles on you new L ???
The people that have read your posts on this subject can now confirm your credibility!!!
Ya gotta watch what you say in these public forums. Someone who doesn't know any better may believe you!
Also please put a "Space" after a period and a coma. It reads allot better that way.....
Robert
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00 Roush Silver Lightning
00 Roush Expedition
98 Roush F-150
98 Bell Tech GMC 454 Daully
Collector of:
Watches, Zippo Lighters, Nikon Ftn Cameras.
High End Home Audio
Sponsor: Several Go-Kart Drivers. 1999 250cc SuperKart National Champion Joe White Jr.
E-Mail: gpkart@aol.com
LQ you are so full of $--t
You are such a Hypocrite.
Everybody is entitled to there own opinion, but a least keep yours consistent.
What happen to "I Beat em from mile one" on your previous post..... now your a proponent of a 500 mile break in period????? Aren't you the guy that did a pick up race with someone with only 80 miles on you new L ???
The people that have read your posts on this subject can now confirm your credibility!!!
Ya gotta watch what you say in these public forums. Someone who doesn't know any better may believe you!
Also please put a "Space" after a period and a coma. It reads allot better that way.....
Robert
------------------
00 Roush Silver Lightning
00 Roush Expedition
98 Roush F-150
98 Bell Tech GMC 454 Daully
Collector of:
Watches, Zippo Lighters, Nikon Ftn Cameras.
High End Home Audio
Sponsor: Several Go-Kart Drivers. 1999 250cc SuperKart National Champion Joe White Jr.
E-Mail: gpkart@aol.com
I would agree with you that a vehicle that is run hard would be probably be a little faster. I would think it might be on it's way to a re-build sooner though. Maybe 20,000 to 40,000 miles sooner. When we're speaking in terms of an engine doing 200,000 miles it may seem negligible.
As far as the external stuff, water pump, hoses and such, here in Arizona those are normal, no wait, frequent wear items. Although I'm still on my original water pump in my 1992. Once this 4x4 was broken in it started doing serious duty. Hauling firewood, motorcycles, camper trailers, boats. Contrary to what people think about Arizona it's not all flat and desert. I hauled this stuff up and down mountains. so this engine is holding together pretty well.
I also agree with you about the consistency on the 2000. If you throw out my first run due to my RT, my runs are with in .065 of each other. I don't want to list the times cause I'm embarrassed, and I don't want to add fuel to the fire on the other posting. Suffice to say it was hot out that night.
:-)
As far as the external stuff, water pump, hoses and such, here in Arizona those are normal, no wait, frequent wear items. Although I'm still on my original water pump in my 1992. Once this 4x4 was broken in it started doing serious duty. Hauling firewood, motorcycles, camper trailers, boats. Contrary to what people think about Arizona it's not all flat and desert. I hauled this stuff up and down mountains. so this engine is holding together pretty well.
I also agree with you about the consistency on the 2000. If you throw out my first run due to my RT, my runs are with in .065 of each other. I don't want to list the times cause I'm embarrassed, and I don't want to add fuel to the fire on the other posting. Suffice to say it was hot out that night.
:-)
Gocart,
I will not respond to you the way i would like to.Your response is un called for and rude.It seems like you only post when it is in a derogatory way.
I completly stand behind every post I have written with honesty and integrity.As far as I am concerned <Just like I said before,You should drive it hard right out of the box.'Drive it like you stole it' I believe I said.The conflict comes in when I am trying to explain a way best of both worlds.I said Drive it so so for the first 500 miles and then drive it hard.It really depends on what your looking for I guess.Do ya want it to last 200,000 miles without any breakdowns running 14.6 or do ya want it to run great as long as it runs.I do believe a babied vechicle could be good for undetermined extra mileage,However I have seen beat vechicles run just as long.I have never seen a test to compare that opinion but, I have experienced a more powerful motor from driving hard!Take your derogatory remarks and keep them to yourself.If you would like to Flame away,Maybe you should visit a local rest area off your local hi-way
I will not respond to you the way i would like to.Your response is un called for and rude.It seems like you only post when it is in a derogatory way.
I completly stand behind every post I have written with honesty and integrity.As far as I am concerned <Just like I said before,You should drive it hard right out of the box.'Drive it like you stole it' I believe I said.The conflict comes in when I am trying to explain a way best of both worlds.I said Drive it so so for the first 500 miles and then drive it hard.It really depends on what your looking for I guess.Do ya want it to last 200,000 miles without any breakdowns running 14.6 or do ya want it to run great as long as it runs.I do believe a babied vechicle could be good for undetermined extra mileage,However I have seen beat vechicles run just as long.I have never seen a test to compare that opinion but, I have experienced a more powerful motor from driving hard!Take your derogatory remarks and keep them to yourself.If you would like to Flame away,Maybe you should visit a local rest area off your local hi-way
Had my L for 10 months now,just over 20k.It has been run real hard.No problems to date.Tons of Hwy miles.This truck absolutely begs to be run hard.Have Fun!
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99.5 Lightning(white)
Best 1/4 mile:13.89 @ 98.1 mph, 60':2.02(stock)
ARE LSII Tonneau w/wing
Alpine Stereo System(500 Watts)
clear turn lenses/clear tail lenses(on order)
Phantom Boost Guage
AirRaid Filter Kit
PSP Chip(installed)
3.73 Gears(installed)
Belltech 2" Drop Shackles
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99.5 Lightning(white)
Best 1/4 mile:13.89 @ 98.1 mph, 60':2.02(stock)
ARE LSII Tonneau w/wing
Alpine Stereo System(500 Watts)
clear turn lenses/clear tail lenses(on order)
Phantom Boost Guage
AirRaid Filter Kit
PSP Chip(installed)
3.73 Gears(installed)
Belltech 2" Drop Shackles
Well, ohh,pupie doooo. My arn't we testy.
First I keep all my vehiles awhile. The 93 L I sold to buy the 99 had 155000 miles and I drove the hell out of it and when I sold it it ran as good as when I got it and didn't burn any oil between changes.
The primary reason for breaking in older engines was to seat the rings. Because of new technology this is no longer necessary.
This has been stated here before by others far more knowledgable of the specifics than I am.
A friend here has a new L and baby's it and didn't take it to the track until he had about 5000 miles on it. I was .2 faster than he was and he had a filter kit.
If this wasn't sound I wouldn't do it. I agree that you should sort of take it easy for 500 miles but after that, go for it.
The 83 bronco 351 that I had went 253000 before I had to overhaul it and I ran it hard the entire time.
Baby it and it will last longer? I don't know maybe so for the transmission, although all I ever did was change the tranny fluid at fords recommended interval of 60000 miles.
noelvm
If your not gonna run it hard what did you buy it for? Status symbol??????????????????
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99.5 Red Ligntning, Syn Oil, Eldebrock 5512 muffler, BFG drag radials, Bugflector, G&H Lens covers,
70 Vette LS-6
[This message has been edited by noelvm (edited 05-19-2000).]
First I keep all my vehiles awhile. The 93 L I sold to buy the 99 had 155000 miles and I drove the hell out of it and when I sold it it ran as good as when I got it and didn't burn any oil between changes.
The primary reason for breaking in older engines was to seat the rings. Because of new technology this is no longer necessary.
This has been stated here before by others far more knowledgable of the specifics than I am.
A friend here has a new L and baby's it and didn't take it to the track until he had about 5000 miles on it. I was .2 faster than he was and he had a filter kit.
If this wasn't sound I wouldn't do it. I agree that you should sort of take it easy for 500 miles but after that, go for it.
The 83 bronco 351 that I had went 253000 before I had to overhaul it and I ran it hard the entire time.
Baby it and it will last longer? I don't know maybe so for the transmission, although all I ever did was change the tranny fluid at fords recommended interval of 60000 miles.
noelvm
If your not gonna run it hard what did you buy it for? Status symbol??????????????????
------------------
99.5 Red Ligntning, Syn Oil, Eldebrock 5512 muffler, BFG drag radials, Bugflector, G&H Lens covers,
70 Vette LS-6
[This message has been edited by noelvm (edited 05-19-2000).]
Fellas:
I don't know about you, but.... I find a certain pleasure in watching idiots blow past me. Just knowing you can eat thier lunch.... I have to ask myself, why beat my truck up?
To prove to some snot nosed kid in a POS that I'm faster than they are. We/they already know we're faster than they are
....
I'll admit, I've kicked a little a$$ at a redlight once in a while, but to drive these things hard all the time is ridiculous.... IMO.
Slam it into the garage door a once in a while, it's a truck right...(just kidding)
Remember, people have a lot of respect for the gentle giant...
I don't know about you, but.... I find a certain pleasure in watching idiots blow past me. Just knowing you can eat thier lunch.... I have to ask myself, why beat my truck up?
To prove to some snot nosed kid in a POS that I'm faster than they are. We/they already know we're faster than they are
....
I'll admit, I've kicked a little a$$ at a redlight once in a while, but to drive these things hard all the time is ridiculous.... IMO.
Slam it into the garage door a once in a while, it's a truck right...(just kidding)
Remember, people have a lot of respect for the gentle giant...
HANKFAN
In my opinion, the Lightnings are designed and constructed to be run hard, and run hard often.
I am not a racer, but based on what I have read in these forums and by seat of the pants feel, these machines have the strength to be pushed to the limit.
Beginning with the computer controls, to the motor, to the transmission to the rear differential,axles and brakes, SVT has designed these components to work harmoniously up to their full potential, with no weak links in the chain.
The only negative characteristic that I have experienced to date with my Lightning is the steering. The steering of my truck can best be described as erratic. Generally, the steering is perfect, but sporadically the wheel will pull or will vibrate. Perhaps this is attributable to the lower control arm bolt issue. I have not yet addressed this condition, having only 4000 miles on the truck; waiting and hoping for Ford to publish a TSB.
Good Luck. Have Fun. Enjoy.
Wilk
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'97 F-150 4x4 Super Cab; XLT 139" Wheelbase Flairside; Silver Frost Clearcoat; 4.6L. (Romeo); 4-spd Automatic Transmission; Preferred Equipment Package 507A; 3.55 Limited Slip Axle; Electronic Shift 4x4; California Emissions; Sliding Rear Window; Trailer Towing Package; Off-Road Package; 6-Way Power Driver's Seat; Remote Keyless Entry/Anti Theft; 6-Disc CD Changer; Ford Bedliner; Ford Running Boards; Ford Nose Mask; Roll n Lock Tonneau Cover.
2000 SVT F-150 LIGHTNING
XLT 120" WHEELBASE FLARESIDE
5.4L EFI SOHC V8 SC ENGINE
4-SPD AUTOMATIC
SILVER CLEARCOAT METALLIC
Roll n Lock Tonneau Cover.
SVT Online Store Lightning Front End Mask (still in box)
In my opinion, the Lightnings are designed and constructed to be run hard, and run hard often.
I am not a racer, but based on what I have read in these forums and by seat of the pants feel, these machines have the strength to be pushed to the limit.
Beginning with the computer controls, to the motor, to the transmission to the rear differential,axles and brakes, SVT has designed these components to work harmoniously up to their full potential, with no weak links in the chain.
The only negative characteristic that I have experienced to date with my Lightning is the steering. The steering of my truck can best be described as erratic. Generally, the steering is perfect, but sporadically the wheel will pull or will vibrate. Perhaps this is attributable to the lower control arm bolt issue. I have not yet addressed this condition, having only 4000 miles on the truck; waiting and hoping for Ford to publish a TSB.
Good Luck. Have Fun. Enjoy.
Wilk
------------------
'97 F-150 4x4 Super Cab; XLT 139" Wheelbase Flairside; Silver Frost Clearcoat; 4.6L. (Romeo); 4-spd Automatic Transmission; Preferred Equipment Package 507A; 3.55 Limited Slip Axle; Electronic Shift 4x4; California Emissions; Sliding Rear Window; Trailer Towing Package; Off-Road Package; 6-Way Power Driver's Seat; Remote Keyless Entry/Anti Theft; 6-Disc CD Changer; Ford Bedliner; Ford Running Boards; Ford Nose Mask; Roll n Lock Tonneau Cover.
2000 SVT F-150 LIGHTNING
XLT 120" WHEELBASE FLARESIDE
5.4L EFI SOHC V8 SC ENGINE
4-SPD AUTOMATIC
SILVER CLEARCOAT METALLIC
Roll n Lock Tonneau Cover.
SVT Online Store Lightning Front End Mask (still in box)


