I'm finally ready to full the trigger on engine mods (I've had a 4lb LFP pulley kit collecting dust for two years).

2002 Lightning, no drag racing, crappy 91 octane CA fuel. 4 lb pulley, e-fan, Afco HE, JLP sealed filter box will be the only engine mods. The tuner will be either SCT or Predator, at the discretion of James at RWTD.

I need a tune that will handle 20-30 minutes of flogging, i.e., one as conservative as Ford’s. I am far more concerned with reliability than ultimate power. The main thing that I want is better shift strategies.

Here are my programming thoughts:

Street program:
Lock out OD until 50
More aggressive downshifting strategy
Lower shift points and rev limiter 10% (to compensate for overspinning the blower about 20%)
Decrease torque reduction to 200ms
Correct speedo for 295/40-20s

Road racing program:
Lock out OD until 50
Hold out the upshifts longer
More aggressive downshifting strategy
Lower shift points and rev limiter 10%
Decrease torque reduction to 200ms

I will leave it to James to set the proper conservative A/F and timing.

Does anyone have any specific tips on shift strategies that I can share with James? WOT upshifts are fine, but I want the truck to hold out gears longer on partial throttle and to not hunt for gears in the corners. Any other road racing programming tips?

Thanks

 

My current RR tune is set to 4900 shift points, Tim,
and it is corrected for the 305 30 R18's for speedo.

Sal richened up the A/F, and it is really rich ... But we
really don't need much HP out there ... < grin >

I have run 45 minute sessions at Mid Ohio with no
apparent problems. I do drop back to the 4lb pulley for
the track, as opposed to the sixer.

There are a few times I wish I had a bit more UMMPH,
like when I am running with the Cobra "R"s, but all in all
I am very happy with the tunes.

Shiny Side Up, partner !!!

 

I'm just throwing this out there.

Why not look into doing some type of "paddle shift" for the truck? I recall Gregg Evans discussing this a while ago, that it was possible. That way you could hold the gears you want, downshift when you wanted it to etc...

I was going to search for it, but decided you could do it. I'm not sure if I read it on here or NLOC, but it was a year or two ago...

 

Yeah, we are all waiting for Tim to buy that paddle shifter and work all the bugs out.

 

I am 100% game for that! It has come up many times over the years, but no vendor has stepped up to make a kit.

 

Tim, check with Jerry Wroblewski w/SCT. He is the master in programming Ford AT!

 

I had a buddy send me a link the other day, lemme see if I can hunt it down again for you. I remember that it was NOT CHEAP, lol.

-Kimball

 

Well, I've done a lot of road race tunes for people (many members here as well), but if you want to use James, then I'll just leave my 2 cents out. I'm sure James will make you a nice tune, he's a good tuner (and a good personal friend).

 

I already paid for the RWTD WBC/Predator/tunes special last year - I just never took delivery. I may have James substitute an SCT instead. What is your opinion on that, Sal?

And why are you leaving your two cents out? It's worth much more than that to me!

 

Probably doesn't want to step on anyone's toes.

 

Tim, it's not something you asked.. But I would suggest a porting of the blower. The extended rpms with a 4lb lower is going to raise the output temps. A porting will lower those temps to some degree because of the increased efficiency. Or... maybe go with a 2lb lower and a port.


Why do you want to raise the street tune TQ lockup points? That will only serve to raise fluid temps in daily driving situations.

Rich

 

The last dyno tune Sal did for my last Lightning he played with the shift points on my race tune. I don’t remember exactly what he told me he did but he said that the truck will drive much different now. It was a total different truck, the tune was set up for a drag race but I am sure if he could make the changes like he did on mine, he could set something up for Road racing.

 

Tim

I was offered a kit from a vendor here in the UK which clipped into your trans wiring harness piggy back style, this enables you to select gear shifts / pressures etc etc and had the option of paddle shift operation (You had to supply the paddles)

I thought about this kit before I ordered my built motor and BTS box back in October but did not take it any further.
I was looking at installing the short lever type shifter you find in rally cars and large truck racing set ups.
A short spring loaded lever which fits neat in the palm of the hand at centre arm rest height, push forward for up and back for down. a bit like the sport setting on my M5 but more built for race use.
I think you retain your existing selector for Park, Rev. Neu, Drive etc.
And the shifter works in drive only when selected.

Will have a dig around and see if I can find info or web site.

Ricki

 

What I wanted was a program that would down shift the tranny at zero throttle position as I was braking. About every other automatic made does this in a street car. Ford tranny's don't seem to be able to comply.

 

How would that work? How would the PCM know you're braking? I can see
just coasting around a hairpin and having that damn auto downshift into 2nd
and throw me in the weeds. < grin > Besides, all us "Trail Braking Foos"
would have a tough time, wouldn't we?

PCM: "Wait, he's braking AND accelerating, WTF do we do now?"
PCM: "I know, let's just SEEK in and out of second gear every 3 seconds
and see if that's what he wants" < === This actually happened on the
first "AutoX" tune ... It was WILD ... I so love testing new stuff from
the tuners !!!



The rig I heard about years ago used the two buttons on the cruise control
on the steering wheel to up and downshift. That would ROCK.