Tim,

I found this kit awhile ago I haven't looked into it fully yet but it sounds just like what you are after. It's a universal paddle shifter kit which comes with the paddles, steering wheel, control box, actuator, and all other needed parts. The web site is www.supercarsllc.com. Hope this helps and if you do go with it let us know how it works.

Dan

 

I'm very6 sure it was possible, but I think I was more discussing the 5R55 5 speed (which is now in Mustangs) that has an option form the factory on some models that you put it in D and move it to right through a gate to a window that has + and - where you toggle up or down. I think it was in the Jag X type or the Lincoln LS that had that. I have been looking into how it works electronically to make a kit to put it on '05 mustangs, but we're not sure it will work with the S model. Until 2003 the 5R55 was a non sychrinized tranny and now it is, so the timing is a little different, all heck to make a valve body for it, but we have a few of them testing now, I have one in my mustang.

G

 

Greg,

what's the actual feasibility of doing it on the 4R100 ??? Do you know
how the PCM would react? Or would you need to program that also?

TIA

Cliff

 

Cheapest easiest solution is a manual valve body and shift it yourself.

 

It actually has to be done in the PCM, there is really no need to modify the transmission itself at all. All you need to do is wite a program that will do the SSA and SSB commands when you signal them and have a switch to do it. You're bypassing the factory shift strategy altogether. But, it.s not a simple matter of commanding SSA or SSB, the way it works is different combination of them firing/not firing deploys the clutches. It's much simpler for a 4 speed than a 5 speed. But still you need to know where you are and what the next combination up or down is.

G

G

 

it seems like alky injection could really help a road racer out.

 

I havn't tried it on the big track yet, just in autocross, but JDM gave me some programs that hold out my shiftpoints at part throttle and I love it. Also tweaked the shift delay a bit, Jim went through the whole program with me but without taking notes, I remember about none of it now other then light details. lol.

--Dan

 

That's very interesting. Can you expand on what this program does? Not really the technical but what it does.

 

Yes, for the love of God, PLEASE tell us more. Daniel, you were who I had in mind with this post. You are my only hope. Sal is tight-lipping it and no one else seems to know anything about rr shift strategies.

 

Unfortuantely at the moment, my memory is short on the details of the specifics, and with the snow, I can't take the truck out for a cruise to figure out where we set the rpm thresholds.

The jist of it is that when I am at less then full throttle, we increased the length of the delay to hold out a gear before the truck will downshift....so when I'm going around a curve at part throttle, the truck will hold at the higher rpm range rather then downshift into the higher gear...the spread of this is rather large at the moment. By this I mean not only a variety of throttle range (basically anything less then WOT but more then 1/3 I think), but also a large RPM spread, it won't downshift from 4000rpms if I'm at part throttle for quite a bit. Jim offered to work with me on fine tuning it for different tracks (so I can reprogram it at the track I am at), but I havn't had the time to take it that far. There was also an inherit shift delay that we eliminated to make the shifts firmer. The only other road-race type thing we did was keep the fuel mixture a little richer across the powerband, while this robs a little power, it will hopefully help lower cylinder temps a little....the rest of the tuning was par for the course: adjustment of timing/AF curve for the 4lb pulley and my powertube.

My powertube is actually restricting my airflow a bit at the moment, but I wasn't on the quest for more horsepower at the time, so I kept it because it looks gorgeous....400/500 is hard enough to keep to the ground on curves, until we figure out something else with suspension I've been hesitant to jack it more.

--Dan

 

When you say richer, where does that put you?

I've also determined that 400/500 is the max to retain reliability on the road course. I am using a 2.7 upper (approx. 2lb) combined with a ported Eaton which should be OK.

I haven't taken it to the track yet but that Hellwig rear bar seems to really make a difference. Can't wait to see how well it works with the Toyo RA-1s.

TB

 

Ignore the red line, that was the truck's stock program.

Runs between 11.5-12.0: