Questions about blowing motors
Questions about blowing motors
I'm not much mechanically inclined, so I need to ask in order to quench my curiosity. I have read a lot about L motors blowing and such, and I get the basics. But, there's always this thing with going WOT over 60 mph or so. Other than the obvious speed risk, what makes this particular practice dangerous in the L? I mean I never hear of ANY other vehicle "consistantly" blowing up from going pedal to the metal over 60. And since oftentimes our trucks are modded; let's assume a truck is bone stock, is doing the 60 WOT more dangerous in the L than any other vehicle, blown or not? If it's not an issue for stock trucks, then I got it. But, don't they blow stock as well?
I don't have access to my manual right now, but is there anything in there about not doing that, or cold weather driving tips for that matter since cold seems to be a factor? I never understood calling someone "stupid" or "idiot" for doing this (6o kick), probably because I don't understand engines enough. But, shouldn't the vehicle be made to handle this? Thanks.
I don't have access to my manual right now, but is there anything in there about not doing that, or cold weather driving tips for that matter since cold seems to be a factor? I never understood calling someone "stupid" or "idiot" for doing this (6o kick), probably because I don't understand engines enough. But, shouldn't the vehicle be made to handle this? Thanks.
The loads are highest up in 3rd or in OD. In order to substain those loads for any length of time several things have to be in sync.
1) Inlet charge temps. The eaton is nicknamed "heaton" for a reason. The output temps when spun with a 6lb pulley is very high. A hot inlet charge will only lead to detonation.
(The IC system is great during a 1/4 mile run. But on a extended high load pull it won't keep up and the charge temp gets very high. Even with a 4lb it gets very high)
2) Fuel quality. It's my opinion (and experience) that you don't always have the octane that you think you have.
3) Timing. If the timing is too high for the environment you'll have detonation. There is no knock sensor in these things and you can't hear it at 120mph. So... exit stage right goes a rod or 8.
If anybody is interested in extended high speed/loads? Just get these in line and you could go all day long.
Rich
1) Inlet charge temps. The eaton is nicknamed "heaton" for a reason. The output temps when spun with a 6lb pulley is very high. A hot inlet charge will only lead to detonation.
(The IC system is great during a 1/4 mile run. But on a extended high load pull it won't keep up and the charge temp gets very high. Even with a 4lb it gets very high)
2) Fuel quality. It's my opinion (and experience) that you don't always have the octane that you think you have.
3) Timing. If the timing is too high for the environment you'll have detonation. There is no knock sensor in these things and you can't hear it at 120mph. So... exit stage right goes a rod or 8.
If anybody is interested in extended high speed/loads? Just get these in line and you could go all day long.
Rich
Originally Posted by baddgene
. . . But, shouldn't the vehicle be made to handle this? Thanks.
People then strip away Ford's margin of safety by overspinning the blower, leaning out the mixture, advancing the spark, and raising the shift points. They get detonation, blow the motor, and blame Ford for "weak rods."
Am I the only one that has a "drive it like you own it and pay for it" attitude rather than the "drive it like you stole it" attitude?
This truck is expensive and the last thing I want to do is throw even more money down the toilet acting like a fool and blowing up my motor. Hence my motor is completely stock and I drive it responsibly 99% of the time. That is just me and to each his own, but I don't really want to rebuild my engine after 30k miles.
This truck is expensive and the last thing I want to do is throw even more money down the toilet acting like a fool and blowing up my motor. Hence my motor is completely stock and I drive it responsibly 99% of the time. That is just me and to each his own, but I don't really want to rebuild my engine after 30k miles.
Yes kickdowns are most likely the worst thing you can do to a lightning.Most people on this board blew up doing a kickdown. I am a firm believer in
1. A good tune (Dyno tune is the best) to check air/fuel and get the most while being safe.
2. Proper tune ups. I.E. chaning plugs every 20k or so, changing fuel filter every other oil change etc.
Yes you can take all the precautions in the world and still blow up. I run the L like hell at the track and go quite often but on the street i never do kickdown in ANY gear and if i do WOT its usually from a stop to 70-90 no more...... I do dirve it like i bought it execpt at the track, Believe me i pay for it the first of everymonth for many more months to come.
1. A good tune (Dyno tune is the best) to check air/fuel and get the most while being safe.
2. Proper tune ups. I.E. chaning plugs every 20k or so, changing fuel filter every other oil change etc.
Yes you can take all the precautions in the world and still blow up. I run the L like hell at the track and go quite often but on the street i never do kickdown in ANY gear and if i do WOT its usually from a stop to 70-90 no more...... I do dirve it like i bought it execpt at the track, Believe me i pay for it the first of everymonth for many more months to come.
Yea, but kickdowns are a blast! Been doing them for years. Nothing suprises Beamers and Benzs on LA freeways more that a fuggin farm truck rocketing away from them like the L does on a kickdown at 70. I couldn't image owning a performance vehicle and restricting myself from doing something like a kickdown. But that's just me
I can't restrict myself from anything
BD
I can't restrict myself from anythingBD
Originally Posted by Edward Goodell
Yes kickdowns are most likely the worst thing you can do to a lightning.Most people on this board blew up doing a kickdown. I am a firm believer in
1. A good tune (Dyno tune is the best) to check air/fuel and get the most while being safe.
2. Proper tune ups. I.E. chaning plugs every 20k or so, changing fuel filter every other oil change etc.
.
1. A good tune (Dyno tune is the best) to check air/fuel and get the most while being safe.
2. Proper tune ups. I.E. chaning plugs every 20k or so, changing fuel filter every other oil change etc.
.
AMEN!
Remember all that oil from the PCV system will LOWER the octane of the fuel going into your engine.
Heck last year I put just over 3000 miles on my truck, changed the plugs, oil , fuel and cleaned the air filter. Also went through a set of rear tires.
Trending Topics
Originally Posted by Cali L
Yea, but kickdowns are a blast! Been doing them for years. Nothing suprises Beamers and Benzs on LA freeways more that a fuggin farm truck rocketing away from them like the L does on a kickdown at 70. I couldn't image owning a performance vehicle and restricting myself from doing something like a kickdown. But that's just me
I can't restrict myself from anything
BD
I can't restrict myself from anythingBD
Kickdowns when out driving are my favorite! Loved it last summer when I made two older folks jump in their convertable when I punched it from 60, kicked down, and spun the supercharger up past them! They JUMPED!!

Also, anytime there are people outside and you mash the gas and spin the charger past them, guaranteed head turner every time!
Originally Posted by Tim Skelton
It is, as delivered from Ford.
People then strip away Ford's margin of safety by overspinning the blower, leaning out the mixture, advancing the spark, and raising the shift points. They get detonation, blow the motor, and blame Ford for "weak rods."
People then strip away Ford's margin of safety by overspinning the blower, leaning out the mixture, advancing the spark, and raising the shift points. They get detonation, blow the motor, and blame Ford for "weak rods."
Exactly. These aren't "weak" rods. Weak compared to the crank, yeah. Take any other stock vehicly, throw 100+ hp to it and see what you find weak. I'll bet you find a lot more than rods. The supercharger spoils us... it is so easy to add a 100 horses for $1,000 or less, try doing that on a naturally aspirated vehicle, you can't. Sure people blow L's up even stock but I doubt any more than any other 380 hp factory vehicle. Go put some watered down Getty mart fuel in your stock L and take it up to 130 mph a few times, see what holds together. It all goes back to the- you play you pay theory, some are just luckier than others, or dumber, whatever.....
I read this forum almost everyday, when I started with mods I decided to go conservative, 3#,lfp cai,pred tune. I knew the pred was the most radical but with 3#(12.5 boost) in cold air, and I know the problems with heat and more boost, so why chance it? I added 4.10 gears as advised from L-Menace and the Bassani high flow cats and cat back. My next mods will be cam&heads. I know this will be more cash for low 12's but it seems to me its a bunch less than a new motor. Who knows I might see a 11.99 with this combo with slicks but really dont care.I know I will never be the fastest truck,just ask JLP, I'm not even gonna try for 9's
Good luck
Good luck Last edited by Dork-N-Beans; Feb 24, 2006 at 06:02 PM.
Top end blasts build heat, if you're lean, then that's when you are most likely to cook a piston or head gasket.
With 16+ degrees of timing, you can get detonation and that seems to break these rods. Same for the kick-down, seems that either that shocks the rods, causes momentary detonation or I have heard with the Accufab single blade throttle bodies that these trucks have a momentary lean condition when you dump open the throttle, and perhaps that in and of itself causes problems.
Bottom line is, no cold weather top end blasts or kick-downs, and when you do go into high MPH blasts, keep your timing in check. Also, be aware that in cold weather, these trucks generally run a couple more degrees timing than in the hot weather, and that causes detonation. Ford should probably have made it stay consistent, regardless of temperature.
As for rods, I know Tim and some others will defend Ford to the end, but it kinda annoys me that Ford saw fit to give a motor rated at 10 more HP carrying 1000lbs less weight the racing strength h-beam rods, but they probably did it as a result of having so many of our motor blowing up. Still, they under engineeered our motor compared to the Cobra's.
Okay, I got my flame suit on.......
With 16+ degrees of timing, you can get detonation and that seems to break these rods. Same for the kick-down, seems that either that shocks the rods, causes momentary detonation or I have heard with the Accufab single blade throttle bodies that these trucks have a momentary lean condition when you dump open the throttle, and perhaps that in and of itself causes problems.
Bottom line is, no cold weather top end blasts or kick-downs, and when you do go into high MPH blasts, keep your timing in check. Also, be aware that in cold weather, these trucks generally run a couple more degrees timing than in the hot weather, and that causes detonation. Ford should probably have made it stay consistent, regardless of temperature.
As for rods, I know Tim and some others will defend Ford to the end, but it kinda annoys me that Ford saw fit to give a motor rated at 10 more HP carrying 1000lbs less weight the racing strength h-beam rods, but they probably did it as a result of having so many of our motor blowing up. Still, they under engineeered our motor compared to the Cobra's.
Okay, I got my flame suit on.......
What is the difference if one shifted it down manuely or pushed the overdrive off, then eased into it to the floor while running at whatever speed (respectfully) then shifted it at redline. Would it still blow the engine as if you just hammered it from a punch at whatever speed (repsectfully) like everyone says it will more often than starting from a stop or in first gear? Please explain what the engine goes through in either instance, what's the difference?
Originally Posted by twb02lightning
What is the difference if one shifted it down manuely or pushed the overdrive off, then eased into it to the floor while running at whatever speed (respectfully) then shifted it at redline. Would it still blow the engine as if you just hammered it from a punch at whatever speed (repsectfully) like everyone says it will more often than starting from a stop or in first gear? Please explain what the engine goes through in either instance, what's the difference?

Originally Posted by Red Death
Am I the only one that has a "drive it like you own it and pay for it" attitude rather than the "drive it like you stole it" attitude?
This truck is expensive and the last thing I want to do is throw even more money down the toilet acting like a fool and blowing up my motor. Hence my motor is completely stock and I drive it responsibly 99% of the time. That is just me and to each his own, but I don't really want to rebuild my engine after 30k miles.
This truck is expensive and the last thing I want to do is throw even more money down the toilet acting like a fool and blowing up my motor. Hence my motor is completely stock and I drive it responsibly 99% of the time. That is just me and to each his own, but I don't really want to rebuild my engine after 30k miles.
I am of the opinion that these trucks were made for kicking *** and not just the humble drive to get some milk. Drive yours like you want but if you are too frugal to drive it to the edge then swap with grandma.
I do mostly around town driving with mine 90% of the times. Occasionally I take it to the outskirts of the island on a long strip of road and do quite a bit of high speed blasts which includes quite a bit of down shifts. Some at 70, 80, or even 90 mph. I have had no problems.
I have a 4lb lower,chip tuned by troyer performance and filter, the basic mods I was under the impression that I need to worry more about the tranny than the engine. Anyway my truck seems to be holding up quite fine, at nights it gets to as low as 68 deg and anywher between 78-93 deg in the days.
I have a 4lb lower,chip tuned by troyer performance and filter, the basic mods I was under the impression that I need to worry more about the tranny than the engine. Anyway my truck seems to be holding up quite fine, at nights it gets to as low as 68 deg and anywher between 78-93 deg in the days.


