Has anybody soundproofed their cab yet?

I already started last night. Doors are complete, but want to know if anybody had any tips before I start the cab itself this weekend. It's already had made a noticeable diffence.

Thanks!

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Rich
1999.5 SVT Lightning - Red. Super Chip. K&N Filter. Viper Alarm w/remote start, clear corners, tow package, cd changer, cover, Phantom boost gauge, MTX Thunderform w/ 2 10" MTX 200w subs. 5-channel 300w Clarion amp., Polk Audio 3-way, 130w DX 7's, Muth signal mirrors, etc. Build #2755
TampaSVT@Tampabay.rr.com

http://home.tampabay.rr.com/tampasvt/images/Light21.jpg
1999.5 Expedition XLT

 

It was supposed to read, "It's already made a noticeable difference".

Got to start spell-checking. Sorry.

 

How much weight is that going to add total?

 

Nathan:

I've calculated a total of 52sqft. of Dynamat, 2 cans of rubberized undercoat and a few pieces of foam. The total weight shouldn't exceed 25 lbs. max.

I'm trashing the hitch to install the Sir Michael's rollpan, so it should cancel out any weight difference.

Rich

 

Hey Tampa. If silence is what you're after, take a look at your air extractors. Those are the two vents at the back of the cab. Those allow quite a bit of road noise back into the cab. No matter what you do otherwise, removing/replacing those should about double the effect. No kidding. Try it and see.

There is only one drawback to removing those--since air has no way of escaping easily, it will make door closing efforts rise (you're compressing air into the cab using the door as a 'paddle'), and the HVAC system should be a touch slower (although many who've done this report no problems with the blower motor).

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Roger Walker
Black 99.5 #1469
Built: 20-May-99
NLOC: 0307

 

Dose any know where I can get a bargain price on some Dynamat?

 

I have found that JC Whitney has the best price. Heat Shield Insulation part # 25XJ0705N for only 21.95 in 48X72 size

 

Roger, thank's for the info.....

Bausboy:
Check w/ local stereo shops. Most sell it for $25.00 a sqyd(9 sqft).
Great stuff to work with. Hair dryer heats it enought to mold to shape. I used the existing door cover as a template. Cut the Dynamat 1/4" wider than the original. Replaced the original and put the dynamat over it. Only cut the holes for the door panel feet to reinstall.


Can't wait to get into the main part of the cab this weekend.


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Rich
1999.5 SVT Lightning - Red. Super Chip. K&N Filter. Viper Alarm w/remote start, clear corners, tow package, cd changer, cover, Phantom boost gauge, MTX Thunderform w/ 2 10" MTX 200w subs. 5-channel 300w Clarion amp., Polk Audio 3-way, 130w DX 7's, Muth signal mirrors, etc. Build #2755
TampaSVT@Tampabay.rr.com

http://home.tampabay.rr.com/tampasvt/images/Light21.jpg
1999.5 Expedition XLT

 

I'd be very nervous about removing the air extractors. I have this sneaking suspicion that the door cracks that we've been reading about are caused by flexing of the window frame section of the door upon closing. The cracking, I suspect will appear more quickly if one opens and closes their door a lot.

Removing the air extractors will only make the problem worse, as you will really have to slam the door to overcome the cab pressure.

Just my $0.02

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2000 Red Lightning on Order - All Options
'99 Yukon Denali - Silver, Lowered 1", Borbet CW4's, 285/60R18 Toyo Proxes S/T's, Hotchkis AntiSways, Edelbrock Shocks
1998 Red Trans Am (not Ram Air) 6 Speed
2000 Red Trans Am Ram Air / WS6, 6 Speed On Order

 

I don't think I'd slam the door regardless. A little hip action if it doesn't close fully works for me. I know it's a truck, but.....

I'll test closing with the extractors in and out and let you know the difference I see this weekend.

BTW, could someone explain where they're seeing the door cracks, though. Post a pic if you have one....

Rich

 

I was wondering if the air extracters are important for keeping the cab from becomming superheated when parked in the sun. It also might make it tougher to circulate the heat/ac but that could be solved by opening the rear slider a bit.

 

I don't thing the soundproofing will make the cab completely airtight due to the access holes for wiring, tubing, ect. through the firewall.

Yeah, maybe I'll have to close the door more than once sometimes, but the overall comfort factor (not hearing all of that road noise and increased stereo quality) will be worth the trouble.

 

TLB

I had the vent holes covered up and no problems. Did quite things up alotSo i think it was worth it.

 

lightning:

I think it will be, too. Will find out this weekend.

I'm going to put in the final set of Polk Audio DX-7's while I've got it torn apart.

 

Hey TBL!
Cool stuff that you are doing. In another thread I posted a url for a company that offers a lot of really trick stuff and it made me think of you. So I am just posting the url here: http://www.selectproducts.com

Tampa Bay. Keep doing the cool projects, I like it.

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BABolt
SVT#290