need advise on lowering my 2001L
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Senior Member
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 296
Likes: 0
From: arcadia,ca,usa
need advise on lowering my 2001L
My L is stock. i would like to do the following:
2" Shackles
JLP traction bars
questions:
if i buy the Hotchkis Bilstein Shocks, will it make the truck handle tighter/more secure.
i do not want to lower the front, only the back. this is why i am thinking about getting the Hotchkis shocks in order to improve handling. I do not want to buy the JLP 3" shackles because i do not think they are worth $100 +.
i want to spend the money i might save in the suspension in order to buy the SCT xcalibrator II , 4 lb pulley and ST/ST brake lines.
what do you guys think?
2" Shackles
JLP traction bars
questions:
if i buy the Hotchkis Bilstein Shocks, will it make the truck handle tighter/more secure.
i do not want to lower the front, only the back. this is why i am thinking about getting the Hotchkis shocks in order to improve handling. I do not want to buy the JLP 3" shackles because i do not think they are worth $100 +.
i want to spend the money i might save in the suspension in order to buy the SCT xcalibrator II , 4 lb pulley and ST/ST brake lines.
what do you guys think?
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 326
Likes: 0
From: California
From reading around, it is best to buy ALL or NONE of the Hotchkiss (front/rear anti-sway bars, shocks, coils, etc.), maybe why they market it as TVS: total vehicle system because the parts were designed to work best as a whole.
Do not see benefit in getting the rears only plus they are valved differently from the stock L-spec bilsteins....unless you change all 4 at the same time.
The t-bars actually address "wheel hop" (and not traction) and starts to make sense only if you are putting serious hp to the ground.
I say lower your rear using 2 in shackles (level it with the front). Then add your 4-lb pulley, SCT and dyno tune. If you do not have one yet, get an FTVB to perk up your tranny. Good luck
Do not see benefit in getting the rears only plus they are valved differently from the stock L-spec bilsteins....unless you change all 4 at the same time.
The t-bars actually address "wheel hop" (and not traction) and starts to make sense only if you are putting serious hp to the ground.
I say lower your rear using 2 in shackles (level it with the front). Then add your 4-lb pulley, SCT and dyno tune. If you do not have one yet, get an FTVB to perk up your tranny. Good luck
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,805
Likes: 2
From: NEVADA
Wheel hop is caused by mis-algnment of the trans tail and pinion gear.
My rear lowering kit furnished axle shims, but they were not enough.
When your done with your suspension mods, take the truck to a driveline shop for realignment.
Cost me $ 80, and cured the problem..... they actually shimmed the trans up 3/4".
LOL
My rear lowering kit furnished axle shims, but they were not enough.
When your done with your suspension mods, take the truck to a driveline shop for realignment.
Cost me $ 80, and cured the problem..... they actually shimmed the trans up 3/4".
LOL
