Looking to see who make the best traction bars for the L and do they really help bring dow your 0-60 times?
TIA
Otis

 

They are one piece to the puzzle. Throwing traction bars on a mostly stock truck with F1's isn't going to do much for you. When you put together a converters, slicks, traction bars, maybe shocks - you make a huge difference.

-Mark

 

I would go straight for the 58" Rancho Style Bars
Like everything else on my truck I tried to save money and bought and tried other Traction Devices first. They didnt work and I lost money as usual @($%(@$(@$&@$

Slapper Bars are only good to a certain ET and then they will HURT YOU.
At a certain ET (and power level) they will actually lift the back of the truck up and you'll lose traction. However they're fine for a truck down to the mid 12's and maybe a little better. I used mine up to 11.8, but once I got to 12.3 and better the launch was extremly violent. At that ET it actually lifts the rear tires "off the ground" on launch.

Does it make your 60ft better, NO
But if your going to run slicks, and or dont want to snap a drive shaft, IT'S A MUST.

 

Like Rob said, truck tracs (slappers) good to 400 425 hp. Getting into the higher hp's and the Ranchos are the only game intown. I believe if you look at most of the 11 and 10 second L's a majority are with the 58's.

I was pushing 496 at the rear and the slappers left me breaking loose with MT slicks. When I went with the Johnny Lightning Ranchos the slicks grabbed and went.

D-Day

 

im using JLP's 58" traction bars they are the same as the Ranchos except you dont need an angle drill to install the JLP's, the Ranchos you do.. i heard that the ranchos are made from a heavier wall tubing and is a stronger steel then JLP uses.. i have mine and so far so good..

 

I don't believe the bar's are going to help your 60'. I know mine didn't, but what they did do is prevent my driveshaft from snapping. I actually found I could break the tire's loose easier! (with my poor driving skill's!!)
Bryan

 

4-link is the best.

Then a Ladder bar that supports the Top and Bottom of the axle. As opposed to a "lift/rancho" bar that supports the bottom.

I have a "lift bar" WOrks good for my application. I wasn't too crazy about slapper bars. The rear of the truck didn't feel as solid as it does now with the "lift bars".

 

Ranchos are the ONLY way to go

 

This is the main reason you want some type of traction bars. Many have lost driveline parts from wheel hop or U-joint angles being pushed beyond their limit with a lot of torque.

 

Metco makes some nice LTLs

Later
M V

 

How lowered are you?

 

Those will keep the bottom of the axle from moving, but what about the top?
The top of the axle can move forward and back.

4-link is still the best.

 

???? If the bottom isn't moving, then the top isn't either.
Bryan

 

That movement might be measurable, but it certainly could not be felt.

The point of traction bars is to keep the spring from winding up. Upper or lower, long or short, titanium or plastic, they all accomplish that goal.

The advantage of a 4-link is (1) that you get rid of the leaf springs (which are the whole reason that traction bars are needed in the first place), and (2) the pinion angle and suspension geometry can be controlled as the suspension moves through its range of motion.

 

4-link certinally IS the way to go. But...for now....ranchos will do.

BigMan...I am lowered 1.5 in the front and 2.5 in the rear.