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Old Sep 28, 2005 | 12:32 AM
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Suspension and Brake people in here

Here is my plan for the next month... I am going to order the Stange Enginneering adjustable shocks, 2004 Bilsteins up front, Ground force 1.3" front lowering springs, an 03-04 leaf spring with 2 leafs removed. I already have 2" drop shakles that i will be using in the rear too...

Is there anything I am missing or that I will need to do... I know the Strange shocks are meant are supposed to work with Lowered Lightnings, but will I have to redrill or get shock extenders, or is there anything I should considering doing while I have it up...

I will be adding Rotor Pro dimpled and slotted rotors as well.. What brake pads would you recommend and do I need steel brake lines or would that be a waste of time...

Any suspension or brake suggestions will be welcomed... I would love a TCE brake kit, but no way to afford that so I need to be a little cost effective.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2005 | 02:07 AM
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We need to know what your objectives/intended uses are.

AFAIK, the Strange shocks are drag valved. That's a non-starter for handling.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2005 | 03:02 AM
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I put 3-500 miles of street driving a month on the truck and I would like a decent ride... I won't ever road course or autocross, but I will go to the strip 2-3 times a month
 
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Old Sep 28, 2005 | 10:07 AM
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In my opinion removing leafs from the rear is a big mistake. I don't no anything about the ground-force kit. If you can find out the spring rate it will help you determine how the ride will be. Dimpled and slotted rotors in general are a good upgrade. Just make sure they are not plated. If they are plated 9zinc, zinc/yellow, cadmium, etc) find another brand.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2005 | 10:20 AM
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Why would the coating make a difference on the brakes ?
 
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Old Sep 28, 2005 | 10:32 AM
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Tim Skelton's Avatar
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Originally Posted by JohnEagle
Why would the coating make a difference on the brakes ?
I'm interested to hear this as well. My Brembo$ have a gold wash finish that appears to be cadmium.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2005 | 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Silver-Bolt
In my opinion removing leafs from the rear is a big mistake. I don't no anything about the ground-force kit. If you can find out the spring rate it will help you determine how the ride will be. Dimpled and slotted rotors in general are a good upgrade. Just make sure they are not plated. If they are plated 9zinc, zinc/yellow, cadmium, etc) find another brand.
Why is removing the spring a big mistake in your opnion? I will never tow and I will need to lower my rear another 1.5" when I lower the front... Are there any other options?
 
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Old Sep 28, 2005 | 01:30 PM
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Hangers are a better option for the rear.

If I recall Ruslow has a system that gets rid of the rear hangers completely and ends up dropping the rear about 2".

Coldie
 
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Old Sep 28, 2005 | 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnEagle
Why would the coating make a difference on the brakes ?
Two problems with coatings. #1 is Hydrogen Embrittlement. The rotors are hardened steel. During the plating process Hydrogen molecules can invade the steel. The higher the Rockwell hardness the bigger the potential. If Hydrogen gets into the material the become very brittle as in like glass. Very prone to cracking and shattering. My background is in fasteners. We have to test all plated high stregth fasteners for H/E. The parts go into a test block and torqued to spec. They then have to sit for 24 hours. If H/E is present the bolts will break during the 24 hour period. They may not break at initial torque but time under load will force the issue. Reason #2 is that zinc and cadmiun have very good lubricating properties. During the bedding in process that layer of plating will affect your braking. As it wears off it can impregate your pads. This can affect your long term braking. Ever see a race car with plated rotors?
 
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Old Sep 28, 2005 | 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 35thPony
Why is removing the spring a big mistake in your opnion? I will never tow and I will need to lower my rear another 1.5" when I lower the front... Are there any other options?
Axle wrap. It will twist the leafs into a pretzel. My stock springs had a huge "S" bend in them when I took them off. Removing leafs will weaken the stack. Also the spring rate is determine by the total stack. What will it be after removing leafs? This will have an affect on your shocks. The Hotchkis rears are a two leaf stck. However the leafs are much thicker. If you just want low, do the hangers & shackles.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2005 | 02:28 PM
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If you want to hold off a few days. I bought a new pair of Strange Engineering shocks and gave them to Wydopnthrtl (engineer) to do some testing. I believe he is going to the track this weekend at Test and Tune.

I know he's added a mod or two since his last appearance, however I'm certain he'll do some tests to account for those variables.

He told me a few preliminary opinions on the shocks, but I'll let him say it.

Hopefully I'll get him to do a back to back test later in October with the stock Bilsteins and then switch over to the strange shocks for a comparison. I could do it, but Wydopnthrtl is a little more experienced at the track and launching then I am. (Haven't been to the track in over a year and I've added substantial mods since the last appearance)
 
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Old Sep 28, 2005 | 02:46 PM
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but Wydopnthrtl is a little more experienced at the track and launching then I am.
Ya think? Hum... do ya'll suppose my tailights appearing in his windscreen time and time again clued him in to this conclusion? LOL..LOL.. Just bustin your chops wkd.

This past weekend I put the strange shocks he gave me on and have only driven about 80 miles so far. I did stop and change them a few times.

So far I fail to see the rebound being any different than the jouce efforts? The instructions say different settings for road coarse and drags. (makes me think it's not a true drag shock)
I'm hitting the track fri with slicks and street tires. Hopefully will know more afterwards.

Rich
 
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Old Sep 28, 2005 | 05:04 PM
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So how is the ride on the Strange Shocks so far? Do you have to remove the shocks to make adjustments on them?

Who sells hangers and which are the best?

So far the here are the things I am fairly certain on, unless I get more info to say other wise.

1) 04 Bilsteins on the front (already have them)($0 but paid $60 a long time ago)
2) Ground Force Springs on the fron with 30mm or 1 3/8" drop and bump stops (already have them)($0 but paid $100 a long time ago)
3) 2" drop shackles on the rear ($0) (already installed)

Thing still left to decide:

1) rear shocks
a) 04 bilsteins ($0) (already have, paid $60 a long time ago)
b) Strange Enginneering shocks ($150)
c) QA1's ($250)

2) Rear lowering
a) Remove Leaf ($0)
b) Rear hangers ($?????)
c) Hotchkis Leafs ($?????)

3) Sway Bars
a) no upgrade
b) Hotchkis front and rear ($475)
c) Adjustable rear sway bar ($90)


What else am I missing here and what are your opinions on what I have chosen and what I have left to choose from... I want something similar in stance to a Hotchkis without quite as stiff of a ride?
 
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Old Sep 28, 2005 | 05:24 PM
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Out of curiosity do you have t-bars? If so won't you need to redrill your mounting points after lowering the truck?
 
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Old Sep 28, 2005 | 05:34 PM
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I have traction bars... that is a good question... Any answers...
 
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