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Old Sep 30, 2005 | 01:18 AM
  #31  
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With your hangers, how much did you drop the front to level out the L... will a 1.4" drop be close?

And how much of a true pain are they to install?
 

Last edited by 35thPony; Sep 30, 2005 at 01:20 AM.
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Old Sep 30, 2005 | 09:58 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by SVT_KY
/thread highjack on

Tim,

Why aren't your running the race Brembo's SLOTTED ???

The guys at Brembo told me that they don't recommend tracking
the "drilled" (although we all know they are cast!)

Just curious since they are the same price.....
The drilled worked fine for me before, so I'm staying with them, mostly for looks (the rears are also drilled, so I would have to change out both to match).

I use street/performance pads only. That may be why my rotors hold up.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2005 | 04:58 PM
  #33  
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paging sadf... I might be interested in your hangers... Need to know how much you are looking for them... If you need to PM me, I have the same name on NLOC
 
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Old Sep 30, 2005 | 07:00 PM
  #34  
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I wonder if that has to do with the fact that the rotors are cast iron and not steel as I assume the fasteners in Silver-Bolt's anecdote were made of.

Also, race cars probably throw away rotors at least after every race and don't care about corrosion. Having rusty rotors on your street machine looks bad, thus the plating.

Brian


Originally Posted by Tim Skelton
The ones that I replaced (the originals) were also coated the same way. Zero problems. I replaced them just because they were worn below specs. No visible cracking, even around the cross-drilling holes.

My rears (Powerslot cross-drilled) are also coated in the same way.

I'm not sure if it is cadmium, but it has that goldish color with the greenish/reddish reflections (like a ham or corned beef). It must not be very thick, because it was gone from the swept surfaces on both sets with just a few stops.

Why would Brembo coat rotors if it hurt them? No one in the world knows brakes better than Brembo.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2005 | 10:24 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by NakMan
I wonder if that has to do with the fact that the rotors are cast iron and not steel as I assume the fasteners in Silver-Bolt's anecdote were made of.

Also, race cars probably throw away rotors at least after every race and don't care about corrosion. Having rusty rotors on your street machine looks bad, thus the plating.

Brian
Carbon steel with a hardness of Rc35 or higher is at risk. Higher the rockwell the more likely it will happen. The only possibility I can think of is that they are not electro plating. Pehaps they are doing a process that has the appearance of zinc/cad yellow plating.

Tim for a second opinion on plated rotors check in with Stan. My guess is that he with have a very similar view. Obviously I have nothing to gain by making my statements. I do however like to share my experience when it's appropriate. Sorry for the thread hi-jack. Back to your regularly scheduled suspension drop tips.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2005 | 12:23 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by 35thPony
With your hangers, how much did you drop the front to level out the L... will a 1.4" drop be close?

And how much of a true pain are they to install?
I did 1.5" so yea, 1.4 will be perfect.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2005 | 01:51 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Silver-Bolt
. . . Obviously I have nothing to gain by making my statements. I do however like to share my experience when it's appropriate. . .
And your experience and comments are appreciated. I'm not disagreeing with you, I just want to get to the bottom of this. There is an explanation, I'm sure.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2005 | 08:57 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by 35thPony
With your hangers, how much did you drop the front to level out the L... will a 1.4" drop be close?

And how much of a true pain are they to install?
I ran hangers (on highest setting) and stock shackles in the rear and stock springs and 2" a-arm in the front and it sat right. I'd guess the front spring/hanger combo will work good. Hangers are way better than shackles for the rear. (long shackles=sloppy rear)

Those things are a PITA to put on though. Ford has these massive rivits (SP?) that are damn near impossible to drill out. I ended up grinding the heads off of them and making a nice spark show in the process. You are welcome to borrow the my grinder if you don't have a plasma cutter sitting around.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2005 | 04:30 PM
  #39  
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Hey buck, I just decided to get the Hotchkis rear springs... They seem the easiest to deal with and install... Not too expensive either...
 
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Old Oct 4, 2005 | 07:38 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by 35thPony
Hey buck, I just decided to get the Hotchkis rear springs... They seem the easiest to deal with and install... Not too expensive either...
Nice!!! That should rock! Those ****** rivits are no fun!
 
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