Engine Problems help please
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Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Los Angeles and San Luis Obispo
how do i get that 3rd plug back on the drivers side off, i need to get to that 7mm bolt on the coil pack but fuel rail is in the way, is it easy to take that off?
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,079
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From: Los Angeles and San Luis Obispo
ok got all the plugs replaced, when i get on the throttle the engine is smooth, but at low rpms at idle, its kinda shaking a lot still, any help? I took her out for a drive, idles at around 500 rpm boggling and then under boost it makes a bah bah bah bah bah sound, and i think the boost is building up a lot quicker too.
Im also running a compression test right now on the two cylinders that burned plugs, they were cylinders 1 and 4 on the drivers side.
Im also running a compression test right now on the two cylinders that burned plugs, they were cylinders 1 and 4 on the drivers side.
Last edited by Dman25; Sep 20, 2005 at 05:41 PM.
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Joined: Jan 2004
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Originally Posted by LatemodelRacer2
Its not that bad and only takes two dif tools. You need
A 3/8 rachet with a 5/8 plug socket. a swivel and about 24 inches of extension a roll of duct tape, a 7mm wrench and a 1/4 drive 7mm socket and rachet with about 12 inch of etension. This works for me and ive changed the plugs in my L about 10 times now and i have it down to 45 min
A 3/8 rachet with a 5/8 plug socket. a swivel and about 24 inches of extension a roll of duct tape, a 7mm wrench and a 1/4 drive 7mm socket and rachet with about 12 inch of etension. This works for me and ive changed the plugs in my L about 10 times now and i have it down to 45 min
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Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Atlanta Ga.
Originally Posted by dirtchicken
The EXACT thing happened to my truck truck after a high speed run down the freeway. I changed the plugs and had the same problem. It turned out to be a fried intake valve. 
Thanks!
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From: Memphis, TN area
Originally Posted by BigBobsL
You forgot the 1/4" swivel.
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From: Greater Boston
plug changing tips
the coil pack under the f/p regulator gives everyone fits and it's quite easy. Use the 1/4 swivel socket.......size seven mm, or just use a seven mm wrench. What i do is acutall grab around the fuel rail to install/remove the screws and pack. What i mean is i reach right down over the fuel rail..........fingers in behind and thumb on the outside. Piece of cake.
The back packs, i just undo the bolt and leave them sitting loose in the pack. Remove the pack with the bolt sitting right in it. Reinstall it the same way........that way you are chasing the screw all over the place and going nuts trying to get it in. I can change my plugs in under an hour. Don has changed my plugs and coil packs in a half hour. Of course his arms are a little smaller which makes the back ones MUCH easier.
The back packs, i just undo the bolt and leave them sitting loose in the pack. Remove the pack with the bolt sitting right in it. Reinstall it the same way........that way you are chasing the screw all over the place and going nuts trying to get it in. I can change my plugs in under an hour. Don has changed my plugs and coil packs in a half hour. Of course his arms are a little smaller which makes the back ones MUCH easier.
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Joined: Jun 2005
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From: North Alabama
same here.....
my truck has had those symptoms twice. Once it was the DPFE and the 2nd time it was the vaccum line on the EGR blown off. Saw where you took it to the dealer. Post up what the problem was....
