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What is the next best thing next to drop spindles

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Old Aug 10, 2005 | 11:08 PM
  #16  
mecca's Avatar
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From: Davie, FL
I have Western Chassis A-Arms/Springs up front and i've noticed a huge increase in bump steer from this setup.....

Originally Posted by Tim Skelton
Are you sure that you know what to feel? I have the same setup as you, and there's a whole bunch of bump steer. I don't notice it 99% of the time, just because I'm used to it. But every now and then, it wants to send you into the concrete median or into the smuck in the next lane. The faster you go, the scarier it is.

But judging from a lot of the comments about bump steer I've seen here, I think that many people confuse bump steer with a harsh ride. So many who complain about it may not be talking about the same thing either.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2005 | 11:50 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Bootbox
. . . I honestly think the truck is much, much better now that it's this low. The CG is so much lower and it's so much stiffer, that it's enough to more than make up for any negative side effects of the geometry change. . . .
That is also the bottom line for me. The stiff, lowered suspension makes the tendency to dart around a lot less scary.

The main place that the bump steer irritates me is under heavy braking where the road is uneven from side to side or trail braking into a hard turn. The rear is wandering from being unloaded and the front is wandering from uneven and inconsistent toe.

But you do a disservice to Stan to place me in the same category as him. I have never met him in person, but I feel confident that he could drive circles around me.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2005 | 11:52 PM
  #18  
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From: The People's Republic of Los Angeles
Originally Posted by mecca
I have Western Chassis A-Arms/Springs up front and i've noticed a huge increase in bump steer from this setup.....
I did not. But that's probably because I changed so many other things at the same time -- like stiffening up the spring rate by 200 lbs, changing the ride height front and rear, and changing to about 2 degrees of front camber.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2005 | 12:24 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Bootbox
With the flat you could always move a rear wheel and tire up to the front and put the spare out back, but the camping thing, you got a good point there. I am personally really impressed with my DJM lower control arms and highly recommend them. Sure would make everything a lot easier.

Oh, and the bumpsteer. I'm running the 2" drop from the DJM lowers and Ruslow 1000lb drop coils and I don't notice it at all. I personally think it's a non-issue for %99 of L owners.
Boot,
You sure are low. What have you done to the rear. For any suspension travel you must have a C-notch.

TB
 
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Old Aug 11, 2005 | 12:57 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by TrackBeast
Boot,
You sure are low. What have you done to the rear. For any suspension travel you must have a C-notch.

TB
I've got about 3.5" of travel. My drop in the rear consists of the DJM axle flip kit, DJM c-notch, shorter than usual QA1s (with heims,) So-Cal shock extenders, and a Hellwig sway that I'm still waiting for, hopefully soon. I paid for it well over a month ago.

The front is DJM lower arms, Ruslow 1000lb coils, Hotchkis Bilsteins, custom super short swaybar endlinks, and severly trimmed stock bumpstops as of today. That really helped eliminate some pogo-ing, but QA1s are still needed up there.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2005 | 01:05 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Bootbox
I've got about 3.5" of travel. My drop in the rear consists of the DJM axle flip kit, DJM c-notch, shorter than usual QA1s (with heims,) So-Cal shock extenders, and a Hellwig sway that I'm still waiting for, hopefully soon. I paid for it well over a month ago.

The front is DJM lower arms, Ruslow 1000lb coils, Hotchkis Bilsteins, custom super short swaybar endlinks, and severly trimmed stock bumpstops as of today. That really helped eliminate some pogo-ing, but QA1s are still needed up there.
Looks like you've done the right things for that kind of drop. It looks like you're 15.75" -center of wheel to lip up front and 16.25 in the back. How close am I?

Hellwigh have a new finish as a $40 option. Its called Hammertone. Mine is being shipped now.

TB
 
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Old Aug 11, 2005 | 05:24 AM
  #22  
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From: Lexington, KY
Originally Posted by Bootbox
I guess I should have said I didn't notice any additional bump steer.

Yes, the truck exhibits bump steer, but it did the same thing bone stock. If
there is additional bump steer, I don't see it. I certainly haven't been alarmed
by anything the truck has done recently. If anything, to be honest, it has
less of a tendency to wander and search all over the road now. I drive a
very, very rough section of road everyday on the way to work and before
the drop it seemed like the truck was just shooting for the ditch at every
possible oportunity. It used to follow every groove and take every rut, bump,
and ripple as a chance to wake me up and make me fear for the worst. I just
assumed it was a side effect of the giant tires.

I honestly think the truck is much, much better now that it's this low. The CG
is so much lower and it's so much stiffer, that it's enough to more than make
up for any negative side effects of the geometry change.

I'm still waiting on my Hellwig rear sway bar, and even running without one
she is just flat out glued to the road. I took it out tonight on my favorite
section of twisty road and it just refused to break traction at either end.
Now, I admit I'm not pushing the limit like you or Ruslow do, but neither is
anyone else here. All this fear of extra bumpsteer is unfounded for %99 of us.
Even as a %1'r you're happy with your DJM arms, that's saying something.
The change in geometry really effects bump steer. The wander that you
speak of can be corrected with an alignment adjustment. What Tim, Stan
and the rest of us 1 percenters have to choose is whether we want the
truck to drive "neutral" or adjust for a bit more toe-out to make turn in a bit
crisper. This scrubs tires a bit more as does the camber that we are running.

The caster increase settles the truck down at speed and keeps it in a
straight line, but increases the input energy required for a turn.

Bottom line is that a track adjusted alignment may not be the best for
normal daily drivers, but it sure does perform well on the track. At mid-ohio,
I move about 2.5 feet sideways due to the bump steer at speed, so it is
very real. The severity of the problem increases with travel and speed.

And I agree with Tim, Stan's in his own league, the rest of us are just hackers
and students in the search of perfection... < grin >

Cliff
 

Last edited by SVT_KY; Aug 11, 2005 at 05:26 AM.
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Old Aug 11, 2005 | 08:50 AM
  #23  
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From: RogersAr
But you do a disservice to Stan to place me in the same category as him. I have never met him in person, but I feel confident that he could drive circles around me.
Tim and Cliff both,after seeing some of your vidoes I feel that you might be able to drive circles around me!.Thanks for the compliment.Since diesel is getting out of normal sight,I more than likely will be doing alot more of the OT stuff since it is alot closer and can do more of them than the Open road.
As for the bump steer problems,what ever happen to the company that was to be making them?did they give upor just felt that it was to big of risk.stan
 
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Old Aug 11, 2005 | 09:11 AM
  #24  
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From: RogersAr
Those of you who are giving up the drop spindle what I posted on the other thread on how to fix bell techs oversight will work.But it has to be done the way I said so you lose basicly no strenght[you will lose a very small amount]And that will fix their idea of using a jam nut and chiseling the thread to hold it on! Had to laugh at that one!!STUPID idea.but mine will work just make sure to first slide the spindle on and make sure you are not going to run out of threads.The biggest proble to the operation is holding the spindle and making sure to get it 90degrees to the tapers so the nut seats flat on the surface once the ball jiont is installed otherwise you will bend the ball joint shaft as you tightnen it.Stan
 
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Old Aug 11, 2005 | 10:18 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by TrackBeast
. . . Hellwigh have a new finish as a $40 option. Its called Hammertone. Mine is being shipped now. . . .

Oh, wait, that's Hammertime.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2005 | 10:51 AM
  #26  
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From: NY
Originally Posted by Ruslow
Those of you who are giving up the drop spindle what I posted on the other thread on how to fix bell techs oversight will work.But it has to be done the way I said so you lose basicly no strenght[you will lose a very small amount]And that will fix their idea of using a jam nut and chiseling the thread to hold it on! Had to laugh at that one!!STUPID idea.but mine will work just make sure to first slide the spindle on and make sure you are not going to run out of threads.The biggest proble to the operation is holding the spindle and making sure to get it 90degrees to the tapers so the nut seats flat on the surface once the ball jiont is installed otherwise you will bend the ball joint shaft as you tightnen it.Stan
printed your instructions out(thanks!), just need to find a shop by my house. I may be shipping them to you! I am going to test fit first, if it works fine with the 22's I may just leave it and call a flatbed if I get a flat, or swap front to rear on the side of the road.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2005 | 06:30 PM
  #27  
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From: NY
Cliff just watched your video against the GT, you def. have some skills

where did you get that camera mount. I am doing my first road racing event at Pocono North on Oct 1 (still available if interested) in my mustang and want to get it on video.
thanks
tom
 
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Old Aug 11, 2005 | 09:53 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Tim Skelton

Oh, wait, that's Hammertime.

I will post pics when I get them. I had all the brackets done too.

It's Hammertone time!
 
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Old Aug 12, 2005 | 12:16 AM
  #29  
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From: The People's Republic of Los Angeles
Originally Posted by TrackBeast
. . . It's Hammertone time!
Can't touch dis
 
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Old Aug 14, 2005 | 01:23 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by TrackBeast
It looks like you're 15.75" -center of wheel to lip up front and 16.25 in the back. How close am I?

Just measured today, 15" dead on, front and rear.
 
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