so i got beat a few weeks ago by mildy modded neon (turbo huffing round 11psi, headers the works, kid said he had 8000 into it) i walked him at first then he said his gas was moving around on him (he had 1/4 tank) but he ran smooth, so he comes back 45 minutes later and beat me. pretty sure he had his turbo running low for street driving, went home and turned it up. so i go out buy a 90mm MAF, intake, and 4lb JLP crank pulley. sadly i have been defeted by the crank pulley. i had the wrench and tool held up tight by a heavy pipe. and let the truck down REALLY slowly on the wrench. all that did was put soo much slop in the 14mm bold on the end of my crank that i dont want to mess with it any more. (yes, i was turning it clockwise. yes, i took the cage nuts and bolt out) i think im going to sell it and get an upper pulley. i can get a puller from work, but how hard is it to swap?

 

I'd give the crank pulley another shot. I wouldn't want to tackle an upper pulley install if I couldn't get a lower pulley on. lol

 

Please, do not attempt to work on another vehicle, ever. People really do things like this>??? WoW. -Mat-

 

A farking Neon?

What a discrace

 

you can always add heat to the bolt and break it loose.

Also, another trick I learned this weekend and applied last night. I had High temp Loctite on my intake and s/c. I didn't want to break the bolts or remove the threads from the aluminum. So I put a punch on it and whacked it a few times a hammer.
1. It broke the bond of loctite.
2. because it was real tight, it pushed the bolt down a little off the threads in the hole.

It came right out.


BTW: DON"T EVER lower your truck on the wrench again.

Get some torches, or a little propane torch and heat it up. Hell get it glowing red, then I guarentee it will come loose.

 

Hold up a minute! Everyone is bashing this guy for doing something that in hind sight is a little stupid, but hey....you guys want to heat your crank up cherry red????????????????????????? Ummmm, hellooooo??????? Even if you don't get it hot enough to damage the crank, what about the fri ggin oil seals?????

 

I have done about a dozen lower pulley swaps. Breaker bar, cheater pipe, and use your legs to push. Get the truck up on ramps is the easiest. The key is to hit it with a shock rather than steady pressure.

 

yep like he said, shock it
if youi hold the pressure on it have a buddy tap the bolt with a hammer

 

you guys need to hit the gym instead of the package store. J/K , seriously though I've done a few trucks and while they were tough I was able to get them with just a breaker bar, hardest thing was trying not to break my hands when it finally broke.

 

Big Shooter, are you or anyone you know in the military, or even civilians that work for the military? Or even military dependants? Basically anyone who has base access...

I use the FT Belvoir auto/hobby shop for almost everyhting. It took me forever in my driveway to swap my first pulley, now with a lift, better tools, and helpfull staff I can do a ton more than I used to be able to do in the past. Plus its like $4 an hour to rent everything except air gun and other goodies, those cost a few bucks more...

 

big shooter......its not that big a deal to do an upper swap,dont listen to this crap.make sure you have the pulley tool when it pops loose it WILL scare the crap out of you,i used the motoblue 2.75 upper and in good 60 air it will take the factory boost guage in the black past 10

 

First time I attempted mine, i was at it for 45 minutes and it would not move. Someone introduced me to a wonderful bottle called PB Blaster. I sprayed it on, waited five minutes and they came off with ease. I would suggest a little PB Blaster before heat and use the "shock" method others mentioned. Toss little bolts are in there good between the heat and rust.

 

A couple of tricks:

Assuming you haven't seriously damaged the hex on the pulley....
Tap your socket into the hex on the pulley really well before starting to turn.
Use not extensions and preferably a breaker bar instead of a ratchet wrench. The closer your wrench handle is to the face of the pulley the less force you have trying to pull the bit out of the hole. I actually achieved a great solution to this by accident when my cheap autozone 14mm socket broke and all that was left was the hex part. I used a closed end wrench with pipe. That will basically have your wrench handle right on the face of the pulley and most all the force you are applying will be going to turning the bolt and not trying to pull the socket out.

Heat can be your friend if used correctly. Do not heat the hex part or the pulley. Heat makes things expand, you don't want to expand the male threads of the pulley, that will just make it tighter. You want to heat the threaded hole that is part of the adapter bolted onto the balancer. This is behind the pulley and a little tricky to get the flame to, but it can be done. I have used a butane torch. Hit the adapter with the flame as evenly as possible around its circumference. Do not spend a lot of time because you don't want the heat to soak through to the male part of the threads from the pulley. Maybe 15-20 seconds or less with a hot torch, don't get is glowing red, you could damage your oil seals. Then immediately get in position to crack it loose. If you don't get it, wait for it cool completely down and try again, don't keep adding heat. It's all about the timeliness and breaking it loose while the female part of the adapter has expanded, but before the heat has had time to soak through to expand the threads of the pulley.

Hope this helps,

 

PB has gotten me out of some tight spots in the past. Havnt needed to use it so far on the L, cross my fingers.

 

hey slicknuts im fully aware of what could have happened but when a 3 foot breaker and a 5 lb hammer, or two guys pushin with thier legs dont work. theres not too many options. it was actually suggested to me to do that by some one on here