AS said the Convertor will act differant at diff times
If it's too lose not only will you burn gas, your burn your motor up too
Jim of JDM can tell you how quick a lose Convertor can cook a Plug, Valve, or Piston. It happen on Bills old truck, the White Beast BEFORE the rebuild

AS you saw in my early vids, that sucker was so got dam lose that even at 60-80 MPH it was floating all over the RPM scale as you got off and on the Gas, HOWEVER if I stomped it in 1st, it would lock up and go down the block sideways, WOO HOO.........

The only way your REALLY going to know how it flashes, or your flash point,
is to put slicks on it, go to the track, leave from a dead idle, foot on brake,
and jump out the MF seat and stop that SOB through the floor board.
And try and see how high the RPM's go before it hooks

On the street you can test it easy enough too MAYBE (just be careful)
Put the shifter in first
roll out of a light or stop sign
and PUNCH IT (WHILE LOOKING AT THE TACH)
see where it hooks (if you dont just roast the tires off the rims)
and of course get right off it, "no pedal" and shift the shifter back into D

 

I would be really curious to see what some other people are getting for their slip (not stall) through the gears at WOT before the lock up occurs in 3rd. The way to monitor this is to datalog Enginge RPM and Turbine speed sensor (TSS) or the Input Speed Sensor (ISS) both together. There is also a TCCRATIO that would probably tell the same thing as a single parameter, I haven't tried it yet.

Maybe a couple of people could datalog this with and without aftermarket converters and could post up how a converter is supposed to run?

 

Rob,

Can you give me an idea of what's going on with your tuning changes as it relates to the TC lockup? Are you locking it up during part throttle and leaving it unlocked during WOT or are you locking up at WOT too? Speed?

 

Just to make sure the basics are covered... And I say this because I've seen it first hand.

Is the proper fluid installed? Has it been over heated?

Just a thought,

Rich

 

Good advice, In my case I think it's just a loose converter because it had the problem from day one about 6 months ago and doesn't seemed to have changed very much. I use the factory fluid at $2 per quart from the dealer, and because I have a pan seal leak with my cast alum pan I check it every week or so, the level has been good and the smell is good.

 

Unfortunately you may be right, and just have a lose one : o (


Lets hope Sal pops in, cause he's the Doctor, I only tell him the symptoms.

When I fist got the truck back I complained a lot about the loosness, he'd pull the chip and make a change and say try it, I would and report back.
He's also street driven, data logged, and made adjustments many times since,
which has helped a lot. AMOF he has my truck right now for over a week, and will for another. Last night I went there and the first thing he said is, wow your truck feels like it's dragging when I drive it, (aka the Convertor).
I also noticed a little less rubber on the F-1's &@$^(@$%@($&^@$

Point being, they DO drive differant with a Convertor, especially with one as aggressive as the Fac Tech Forged Billet Total Domination Convertor,
and if your not use to it, it is def differant than what you are use to. Remember this convertor is sold as a RACE convertor NOT a street convertor. However we have DEF found the best of both worlds with mine and I do credit Sal and his magic for it. AMOF many have had them installed by Sal and found the same results as me, "happiness with it on the street too".

What I like the best is I have the ability to drive it like a Stick, I can hold a gear at any time, and without even getting on it, I can shift ALL gears as high as 4000 - 4500 RPM, OR I can drive it normal and let is short shift as it did stock. This is all done by simply applying diff pressure to the pedal.
I think my finalized settings are honestly a combo of learning how to drive the Convertor and Sal working his magic on the tune.

I can tell you he has the nitrous tune set up so the Convertor locks up IMMEDIATELY at the shift points. But on my 24/7 Gasoline Tune it is loser, (and works as I descibed it above).

I'll try and get him to reply here

 

Please do... I have some questions for sal before I yank out my FT total domination TC

 

My FT TD converter was way loose also, I'm most likely going to pull it and have it restalled, sucks having to do that though. Converter is flashing at 3200-3400rpm, a bit higher than advertised.

 

I pose some questions for you...

Why would someone do that much tuning to get a TC to work... shouldn't the torque converter when installed basically do it's job... If you are locking it earlier that it wants too, aren't you sort of defeating the purpose and design of the torque converter itself... I mean they are meant to stall in a certain range for a certain reason... I mean, they are mechanical and you get the stall you want and plug it in... At least that is the way it was explained to me... A tuner can fine tune it, but the basic mechanics should be correct upon install with no tuning. Or am I wrong here...

 

Pony

I do hope Sal pops in, cause even with all I just said, I dont think he really did much tuning to it, I think it was more a matter of learning how to control it, and a few tiny changes in the tune that gave me that compromise that made it perfect for both Street and strip

In those Vid's you can hear how frigging lose the thing was ORIGINALLY, jesus at like 60-80 MPH I would press down and almost go redline, look at some of those Vids again. AND MIND YOU I WAS NOT WOT IN ANY OF THEM, that is honestly just normal driving on the street.

[EDITED below to make more sence)

HOWEVER NOW by simply shifting OD at exactly 55, and then immediatley locking the convertor up, it changed everything. This is where we spent the time I spoke about test and tuning, we tried many diff MPH before I was totally happy with it. FOR ME 55 works perfect because my truck is now as loose as I want it in 1st 2nd and 3rd, or as tight as I want it with a little diff pedal movement, and then once I hit 55 it makes a nice transfer into OD and all lockes up giving me nice tight ride with decent economy on the parkway.
Slow to below 45 MPH, and it un-locks and back into the fun zone I go

To tell you the truth I think Sal may even currently have me set at STOCK shift points. It's just the OD and Final Convertor Lock Up I believe we messed with. But as said on the Race Tune the convertor is set to lock up with the shift point of each gear.

Once again I can not stress how much I frigging love this Convertor
Maybe some just happen to be looser than others ???

 

I hope there is not an issue with a Factory Tech Forged Billet Total Domination Convertor... Guess what kind of TQ I have? Oh boy....