My chip had been in the truck for quite a while also before it started doing it. It was taped in place, took it out and re-installed it a couple times, never did figure it out.

Jody

 

Yup. Sounds like chip. It happened to me the other day on the freeway. My buddy had his foot up near the computer and must have caught a wire. It did the same thing as you. Instant dead and lights on the dash. But, I was able to restart it and keep going. It was shifting all funny though and the idle was off. I disconnected the battery, reseated the chip, and powered back up. Back to normal.

BD

 

This is why you need an ECU programmer rather than a card-edge chip!

 

Now that everyone is talking about the chip, that could be the culprit (man I'm quick, huh?).

Back when I had my truck, my chip caused some problems. I'd been running it for about two years when it started acting up. I'd be driving down the road and my truck would completely shut off - no power, no headlights, no nothing. As quickly as it'd die, it'd fire right back up. It happened about three times and I finally figured it was the chip. Had to be internals, though, as I KNOW the points were clean. If nothing else, it may not have been making good contact from all the times I took it out and put it back on.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=98680

 

these problems with a chip are easily remedied and careful first install usually takes care of all problems. Chips still have there place but i agree for most people they should go the programmer route. i have never been "most people" though. if a programmer would hold 4 tunes instead of 3, i'd gladly have bought one. as it is, i need all four on a regular (use all 4 almost weekly) and do not want to fool with pulling programs off my laptop and dumping them to a programmer and constantly keeping up with the programs, etc. it makes life much easier when i already have enough to do switching from race form to tow form. it is nice to to just reach over and turn that **** to change tunes while rolling down the highway.

 

same exact thing happened to me.

My chip came loose.

Now it's Duct taped in!

 

That happened to my 01 L twice; both times running the 1/4 mile. It was NOT too much coating on the PCM contacts. It was the chip. I changed chips(another brand--I have three different ones) and it's never done it again. I believe some chips don't have enough clamping force for a good electrical connection. Going to WOT with the tremendous torquing of the L may cause that connection to break just for an instant and then shut-down happens. And that's a very scary situation when drag racing at night and they're lined up ready to go with me 3/4's of the way down the track. Mine also started right back up.

Dan

 

Watch out for the Cadilac CTS "V" as well. I just bought one and they can get down the road in a hurry, but have bad wheel hop and most will race from a roll. Don't forget they come with the Z06 engine from the Corvett, and there some with SCs on them as well as Juice. The ones that have mild Mods are running 400 RWHP and there are a few that are doing 480-500 RWHP. These cars will pull hard pass 150 MPH, and if I did not have one I would raise the BS flag......Now it will never be as quick as my Cobra or Lightning, but if you happen to be stock or close to it........Watch out.

 

The GTO is known to be quick, my truck will absolutely molest one at the track. I have never seen one get out of the box very well. From a 50 roll they will scream. My truck isnt the fastest L but it is pretty damn quick. I am the type to never turn down a race, after all, you never know until you try it. I had no doubt that I could take him....ha, Suprise. I would have walked him like a dog on the race side of the chip and good gas, Im positive of that. If he's at the track tonight I will get more of the blue GTO. Win, lose or draw I'll post it here. One thing is for sure, they will roll from 50 + and I have seen it.