LOVE the coil pack screw mod, hate the...
I like your idea, the first thing I thought when I saw a set installed on a truck, is boy they are kinda big. For me (a show truck), I don't want coilpack screws to be the center of attention on my engine. Thus, I set out to create a set that is much smaller and less noticeable.
I like doing my own chit anyway.
I FULLY understand the reasoning for your price.
I like doing my own chit anyway.
I never apologize for my prices
Originally Posted by madferraristi
I spent a lot of time doing what you are doing and I'll make these comments.
I never apologize for my prices, but in order to do it right, you need custom or special parts. The screws are M5 x 0.8 thread.
They'll be a bear to get started in the holes properly without the plain tip on the end of the threads.
As LightningMike said, the one under the Fuel Pressure Regulator is the most important one.
When all is said and done, you spend $35.00 for materials, probably two hours making them, suddenly the price doesn't seem so bad??
I never apologize for my prices, but in order to do it right, you need custom or special parts. The screws are M5 x 0.8 thread.
They'll be a bear to get started in the holes properly without the plain tip on the end of the threads.
As LightningMike said, the one under the Fuel Pressure Regulator is the most important one.
When all is said and done, you spend $35.00 for materials, probably two hours making them, suddenly the price doesn't seem so bad??
There is no doubt the ones you make are higher quality and a well designed part. You have done the work to design, build and market them.
The price is quite fair when you figure how much labor will cost when added.
That is the only thing a do it yourself guy can save is the time.
This is a hobby to most of us and that is the only way to justify our (free) labor.
I built a drive shaft loop for my truck. If I added my time to the material it would be more than what the shops sell them for, but that to me is part of the fun of the hobby.
OH-MAN,
I understand completely, been there done that. I raced on a budget for 35 years. Yeah, I'm probably old enough to be your father, maybe more.
My next project is a manual shift override selector for the transmission in my truck.
I understand completely, been there done that. I raced on a budget for 35 years. Yeah, I'm probably old enough to be your father, maybe more.
My next project is a manual shift override selector for the transmission in my truck.
Originally Posted by madferraristi
OH-MAN,
I understand completely, been there done that. I raced on a budget for 35 years. Yeah, I'm probably old enough to be your father, maybe more.
My next project is a manual shift override selector for the transmission in my truck.
I understand completely, been there done that. I raced on a budget for 35 years. Yeah, I'm probably old enough to be your father, maybe more.
My next project is a manual shift override selector for the transmission in my truck.
Keep up the good work your stuff is top quality.
Immitation is the sincerest form of flattery. I wish I could make a set as nice as yours.
Originally Posted by TampaBlack99
My moto is "Do it right or don't do it at all". You need a set screw, nothing else will work PROPERLY.
Finally found all the pieces. Found 5mm x 40mm set screws at the local fastern store. I then had trouble finding the 5mm flange nuts, everyone only carries down to 6mm. Then I remembered the black flange nuts to my r/c car wheels are nylon flange nuts, worked great. Installed one and like the look, there small and not very noticeable which is what I was going for. I had to install the high strength green thread lock on all the screws to prevent the bolts from coming out of the shaft.
I made several extra for when I drop them in the engine bay down the road. I also made 2 smaller screws for the fuel regulator, I will try and install them and if they don't work I plan on just using the oem screws there. I had to use hex heads on these screws for clearance issues. I can only get a small wrench in that space. There's noway of getting a socket in there. I plan on getting all these polished soon before I do my plug change.
I made several extra for when I drop them in the engine bay down the road. I also made 2 smaller screws for the fuel regulator, I will try and install them and if they don't work I plan on just using the oem screws there. I had to use hex heads on these screws for clearance issues. I can only get a small wrench in that space. There's noway of getting a socket in there. I plan on getting all these polished soon before I do my plug change.
That's why I figured people would want to avoid the 10-32!
One last thing, the set screws I got are steel so need to have a coat of WD-40 on them until they get installed to prevent rusting. When I get ready to install them I will install some anti-seize on the threads so there easy to remove during my next plug change.
Originally Posted by TampaBlack99
Do I have to figure everything out? Hell, just make a smaller bolt for that one. Or do a search online for flexible thread shafts, I can't find jack when I do the search.
Nice job.
One thing you are missing and that is the unthreaded tip or "dog point" to help get them started in the hole when you are working blind installing the back ones.
I use stainless steel studs so that they don't rust.
One thing you are missing and that is the unthreaded tip or "dog point" to help get them started in the hole when you are working blind installing the back ones.
I use stainless steel studs so that they don't rust.
One thing you are missing and that is the unthreaded tip or "dog point" to help get them started in the hole when you are working blind installing the back ones.
I use stainless steel studs so that they don't rust.
Last edited by TampaBlack99; Jul 12, 2005 at 12:54 AM.
calm down man i was jsut asking what you were doing with it. i wasnt asking you to build a set for me or asking for more part numbers. just being nosey on what your plan was


