MOP,

That's BS they told you about the timing setup being part of your problem. The default Diablo and SCT tunes have slope timing. I've had both tunes and datalogged them extensively. The SCT tunes seem like they slope a little more than Diablo.

My SCT tune would drop to 11 degrees of timing at the bottom of the gear in 1st (1000 rpm) and slope up to 18 at the top of the gear in about 500 rpm increments. Every gear change the timing would drop from 18 degrees to 14 slowly climbing back to 18 at the top of the gear.

My old Superchips programs would hit a hard timing number at boost and that's what I had through the whole gear. The only draw back with this setup was it would cause tipin ping on some trucks. Slope timing solves the tipin ping problem but will rob you of torque at the bottom end and some horsepower toward the top until the timing peaks.

What RWTD did with your tune from 3400 rpm up was a good thing. Shifts usually drop your RPM to about 3600 rpm and it climbs back to redline. In 2nd and 3rd you are holding a steady timing instead of it dropping off.

Slope timing is good for the street and a hard timing number is good for the track. Your timing was a combination which would cut out tipin ping on the street and make you a little faster at the track. This is GOOD.

The default slope timing that comes in these programs will cost you .15 - .2 seconds at the track. I have the timeslips to prove it. The RWTD setup would probably cut that ET increase in half.

I run a slope program for the street and a race program with 18 degrees from 1250 rpm to redline.

If you are making 20#'s of boost like most of the others that run the Magnum Powers blower then 15 degrees of timing is probably about all you can stand on 93 octane.

I can't speak for the rest of your tune but the timing setup is not your problem unless you need it to have more timing. Depending on the boost and the truck.

 

Very informative post. I always wondered why the timing drops on shifts at WOT. I wish there was an option in the Predator to allow you to lock out your timing.

 

man, I got Chris Johnson when he was in Houston. Ive have 5# lower, JLP Cold air, C&L cold air pipe, Electric fans/Cobra R water Pump, 170 therm and Flowmaster. Im making 435/527 RW with a street tune. Then didnt dyno tune the race tune. ALso, im using xcal2

 

Mop

I have basically the same set up except with a 8lb lower

Magnum Powers
MP Bracket
2.7 MP upper
8# lower
C/L Plenum
SBTB
PSP Intake
Maf Extender
50lb injectors
NGK BR7's
Hypertech 160F stat
Long Tubes, Hi Flo Cats, Flowmaster Catback (Single Muffler)
SCT Chip w/PSP 16 Degree tune

444/556 SAE
458/573 uncorrected
AND I AM NOT HAPPY WITH THOSE #'s

(we once got 475/596 uncorrected out of it, but my stock pumps were
just running out on the top end and it was going a little lean in the high rpm's.)
Once we changed the pumps and flatened the AF we ended up 444/556)
This is my current 24/7 street program using 93 octane pump gas

We have found that for some very strange reason we cant gain any HP
by adding any timing. WTF right ??? Here I use to run 19 degrees on a
N20 program on pump gas, and now I cant run it more than 16 even on
race fuel ???.
One night we tried 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 + 21 (I had 100 octane in it
that night) we progressively lost more and more power as we went up
the timing chart. Lost a total of @ 30 HP, put it back to 16 and WAM 444/556.

I'm going to have to rule out a few things soon and try and figure it out ???

BTW
If you had an Eaton, I would DEF blame it on timing,
Most Eatons want a good 18 degrees, and up to 21 for a race program,
but for a Mag I agree with LTNBOLT, I dont think adding timing will add power.
(in my case it actually took A LOT away)

 

LTNBOLT: Great post.

 

It seems that many tuners struggle to unlock any gains with the MP, however, I made 450hp and 550 tq on my 12* winter tune. I would go to a tuner with extensive time with the MP(I chose JDM), and feel the SCT software is the way to go.
MP/6# lower
full exhaust
twin 255s/SCT MAF
Jim

 

Where did you get those dyno numbers (dyno location) and are those STD?

-Mark

 

If you are losing power up top when you add timing then something isn't working right. Might it be that the MP is making to much heat to make those boost numbers, not flowing enough volumn of air, robbing to much HP.....

 

Rob your numbers seem a bit low, have you had any track time yet? timeslips are all that really matter anyway. And don't want to start ***** but isn't gator making 560 hp with basically the same setup with the addition of ported heads/cams? I didn't think heads/cams were worth 100hp

 

Yes Gator has the identical set up, plus heads and cams
He does have the newest and best Ported Patriots, with other work,
oversize SS Valves, ported, and the newest Stage III Cams
Everything else is the same, and YES I AGREE MY NUMBERS ARE DEF OFF
&@$%*@$%(@*$%@($%@($%@$*%@$(%$(^@$

 

have you run it though Rob? or dyno'd with the nitrous?

 

We HAVE NOT dyno'd it with the Juice YET
I only got to make one pass so far, and since it was the first I only hit it
with @60-70 HP, BUT only for 6 sec's of the run.
Ran a schitty 11.9 at 111

Actually worse than I've been doing for 2 years on the stock block,
BUT I should add that was full weight, and my Batt was dieing so I couldnt even heat the tank, it had an easy 11.6 / 11.7 in it that day.
And of course I usually hit it with 100HP for the full run (and heat the tank)
It'll go 11.5's like that I'm sure.

 

I would figure that even in the heat he should be making the same numbers.

450/550 is not alot to ask out of his combination.

With basic bolt ons, full exhaust, 4lb lower and ported eaton i made 437/532 STD......Sae was slightly lower by a few points. This was on a 65 degree day on my 3rd pull with an 11.8 max a/f and conservative timing table because it was my street tune.


I would figure with the additional at least 3, maybe 4 lbs of boost to my set up which is pretty common among alot of us here, i would be VERY DISAPPOINTED with those numbers.

Might wanna try a new tune from a tuner and redyno.

 

try different plugs. yours are way too cold, and may be fouling. get some tr6's to try out. it is worth a shot.

 

???

My plugs aren't fouling, the insulators look tan