Did someone say 32 Valves???
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Joined: Dec 2000
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From: Auburn Wa
Originally Posted by LightningTuner
Honestly I would reconsider the D1SC. It's a great head unit, but I don't think it's going to support the kind of power you are after. I would suggest something larger, like an F1R or D2. I ran the F1R on my Lightning. I made 705 rwhp with it, on a race tune. That was at 22 psi. I really don't think the D1SC will made the power you want, even with the 4V heads. Just my 2 cents.
Also, you're not going to like this if you haven't done it already, but you ABSOLUTELY MUST double key the crank. The modular crank snout is very small, and the keyway design is very poor. I started to roll the keyway out of the crank under the load of the Whipple, and the Procharger just ripped the whole balancer and pulley off. You need to double key the crank, and use an ARP crank bolt.
Hope this helps. I've been down this road already.
Also, you're not going to like this if you haven't done it already, but you ABSOLUTELY MUST double key the crank. The modular crank snout is very small, and the keyway design is very poor. I started to roll the keyway out of the crank under the load of the Whipple, and the Procharger just ripped the whole balancer and pulley off. You need to double key the crank, and use an ARP crank bolt.
Hope this helps. I've been down this road already.
Dale
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From: Dallas
Sal, I hear what your saying about the key way and understand 100 percent. I personaly think after following your build up closely with Derek that the reason the keyway sheared was more than likely the added stress of the cog setup along with the F1's 5 to 1 step up ratio. I also think that the F1 was robbing a considerable amount of HP just to turn it, but without a side by side no one will know. The cog setup has got to be a heck of a lot harder on the crank than just a 6 rib belt that can slip when it needs to. But if and when mine does break I know what will go in in its place.
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From: Dallas
The intake is a sullivan intake that I am going to cut a butcher very soon. I'm going to cut the water crossover off and weld in an fittings in its place, and run a evans remote thermostat.
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Joined: Aug 1999
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From: Palm Coast, FL
Originally Posted by ScrewOnBudnik20
Sal, I hear what your saying about the key way and understand 100 percent. I personaly think after following your build up closely with Derek that the reason the keyway sheared was more than likely the added stress of the cog setup along with the F1's 5 to 1 step up ratio. I also think that the F1 was robbing a considerable amount of HP just to turn it, but without a side by side no one will know. The cog setup has got to be a heck of a lot harder on the crank than just a 6 rib belt that can slip when it needs to. But if and when mine does break I know what will go in in its place.
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From: DETROIT, (formerly Eaton County, Michigan)
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Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Shelton, Connecticut
Looks like a NASTY setup.
I am going to have to agree with Sal though. Double key the crank! You are gonna be very mad at yourself when you have to pull it back out and apart over a broken key way. -Mat-
I am going to have to agree with Sal though. Double key the crank! You are gonna be very mad at yourself when you have to pull it back out and apart over a broken key way. -Mat-
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From: S FLA
Originally Posted by ScrewOnBudnik20
The intake is a sullivan intake that I am going to cut a butcher very soon. I'm going to cut the water crossover off and weld in an fittings in its place, and run a evans remote thermostat.
Looks good BTW.
Eric