That was the reason for my post. I know for a fact that the heads are wider and I know for a fact the the intake gap is narrower, but I don't know how it affects the exhaust ports. The heads could be wider at their furthest point at the valve cover rail, while still having the flanges in the same place (or similar), but I don't know.

I'm not stirring anything up for Shawn, just trying to be helpful with something that I assume could be an issue. My complements on the project and the 'out-of-the-box' thinking for something new.

Herb

 

Just curious what is involved/how is it going to work if you remove the ABS box?

 

Awesome ShockTherapy
Cant wait to see more

 

It will be like any vehicle that doesn't have ABS. All I am going to have to do is get a union fitting, T fitting, and reflare and plumb some brake lines. Very simple actually. Oh, and remove the lamp that will probably cause an ABS light on the dash.

 

ABS really just pulses or modulates brake pressure to prevent brake lock-up. Removing it would be fairly simple:

the ABS unit has two inlet - one from the master cylinder front, one from the rear
The ABS unit has three outlets - one for each front wheel and one for the rears.

The best use of space would involve fabbing new lines, but essentailly, you're just repalcing the front portion of the ABS unit with a Tee and the back portion with a coupling. A proportioning valve would need to be added to meter front-to-rear brake bias and this could be installed as the coupling for the rear line.

There may be some ECM stuff to deal with but I think the ABS has its own processor. Simply unplug the ABS light in the dash and no more warnings.

Herb

EDIT - Damn the timing Shawn - we were typing at the same time

 

i never cared for abs brakes

shock, you got a monster set of you know whats

 

Shock, Good luck with your project!

Twin turbo monster!

Johnathan

 

Bank accounts?















LOL


Nice project Shock!

 

Oh...For those that were concerned about the width of the engine, don't worry. The exhaust manifold ports will be in the same location as a stock L engine. Measurements have been made and there are no concerns in that department.

 

Dive off into it!!!!!!!!

Thanks for the continued updates. Good luck

Vince

 

When clearancing for the manifolds don't forget to take into account the flex of the motor mounts. Hate to see it fit when static but rock over when you get on it. Looks like a fun project.

 

Shawn,

Would it be possible to snap a few pics of the driver side manifold showing where the outlet for the lower rad hose is in relation to the Navi exhaust manifold?

JMC

 

Actually I will be using a Cobra Oil Filter/Cooler assembly when I put it back in. That will put the lower radiator hose outlet below the power steering pump (nowhere near the manifold outlet) so I'll have a little extra room. I'll take a pic of it when I get to that point of the reassembly.

 

Thanks. I will look into the Cobra arrangement.

JMC

 

Check out this page under the section titled Water Outlet / Oil Filter Mount.

http://sullivanperformance.com/YVS450/tech/tech1.htm