My Lightning is slow...please help
i think something is wrong with your truck, probably the tune and octane like everyone's saying. you need a custom tune for 93+. get that and THEN see how it runs. mail order is fine from a good tuner, you don't need a ragged edge A/F absolute perfectly dyno-tuned tune to run 12.8 w/ chip filter pulley. don't run higher octane than you're tuned for, not much anyway. a WS6, stock, does not make 300 RWHP. the LT1/LS1 crowd used to be my "boys"
maybe 260, 270 max rwhp bone stock. driveline loss on those cars is more like 18-21%, lower side of that for a manual, at least 20 for an auto. simple stuff first, good plugs gapped right, fuel filter, good fuel with good BTU... don't run the cheap crap. good luck
maybe 260, 270 max rwhp bone stock. driveline loss on those cars is more like 18-21%, lower side of that for a manual, at least 20 for an auto. simple stuff first, good plugs gapped right, fuel filter, good fuel with good BTU... don't run the cheap crap. good luck
Originally Posted by Slick_Sammy
...a WS6, stock, does not make 300 RWHP.
Yes, now im getting somewhere. Thanks for the help guys.
Odin's Wrath
Tell me more about this data logging idea. I understand how to use the Predator to datalog a run, but I don't understand how I would "send" it to Sal?
Rob_02Lightning
Hey Rob, I just loaded up the Predator 93oct tune. Im going to call up the WS6 guy and have a rematch. This time I will try him from a 10-15mph roll. This rolling start should eliminate my traction issue's.
I always run 92-93oct in my truck. I was just using a 91oct tune, because I wanted to be extra safe. I found out that "safe" and "fast" don't belong in the same sentence.
"I went 3 years of racing on mail order tunes and ran consistent 12.8's on a filter chip n pulley (even on F-1's). By season two I was running hi 11's with the Nitrous (still on a mail order tune), and did that through season three 3 (still on a mail order tune)"
This paragraph is like a breath of fresh air. This is what I always thought!!! I know that a "custom dyno-tune" is best, but I didn't think it was necessary to run 12.8's.
Rob, sorry to hear that your "new" set-up isn't working out. I wasn't aware of this?? Last I heard, you just got it back from Sal and it was running great. I take it you took your L to the strip?? Sorry to hear about your troubles. I would be mad to!
Thanks for the help guys. Im not exactly sure what to do from here, but your advice helps. It makes me feel better to see that you guys have problems along the way to. I thought the world was picking on just me
Odin's Wrath
Tell me more about this data logging idea. I understand how to use the Predator to datalog a run, but I don't understand how I would "send" it to Sal?
Rob_02Lightning
Hey Rob, I just loaded up the Predator 93oct tune. Im going to call up the WS6 guy and have a rematch. This time I will try him from a 10-15mph roll. This rolling start should eliminate my traction issue's.
I always run 92-93oct in my truck. I was just using a 91oct tune, because I wanted to be extra safe. I found out that "safe" and "fast" don't belong in the same sentence.
"I went 3 years of racing on mail order tunes and ran consistent 12.8's on a filter chip n pulley (even on F-1's). By season two I was running hi 11's with the Nitrous (still on a mail order tune), and did that through season three 3 (still on a mail order tune)"
This paragraph is like a breath of fresh air. This is what I always thought!!! I know that a "custom dyno-tune" is best, but I didn't think it was necessary to run 12.8's.
Rob, sorry to hear that your "new" set-up isn't working out. I wasn't aware of this?? Last I heard, you just got it back from Sal and it was running great. I take it you took your L to the strip?? Sorry to hear about your troubles. I would be mad to!
Thanks for the help guys. Im not exactly sure what to do from here, but your advice helps. It makes me feel better to see that you guys have problems along the way to. I thought the world was picking on just me
Originally Posted by fast1
Odin's Wrath
Tell me more about this data logging idea. I understand how to use the Predator to datalog a run, but I don't understand how I would "send" it to Sal?
Go to www.diablosport.com and obtain a copy of their data viewer. Once you've done this, you can use the "Log Upload" option from the Options menu on your Predator to upload a data log file to your PC. You should then be able to send this info in an email.
Originally Posted by Odin's Wrath
Go to www.diablosport.com and obtain a copy of their data viewer. Once you've done this, you can use the "Log Upload" option from the Options menu on your Predator to upload a data log file to your PC. You should then be able to send this info in an email.
Originally Posted by fast1
Hey thanks. Just downloaded the data viewer. Hey SAL, will this be a helpful device? If I do some 3rd gear WOT data-logging and email it to you, using this Predator program, will you be able to do some fine-tuning for me?
The other thing is, you should have not asked for a 91 octane tune, if you aren't tied to 91 octane. If you would have told me off the bat what you posted here, I would have told you that you didn't need to do that, and we could have done a nice 93 octane tune that would have been plenty safe. But that's in the past, let's just deal with what we have now.
Originally Posted by LightningTuner
From a WOT standpoint, there's really nothing I need to know from a Predator log, on your specific truck. The big thing we need is A/F numbers. Instead of spending thousands to ship the truck to me in NY (and yes, people do that)i would suggest spending $500 and ordering a wide band commander off our site. THAT is the info we need. With a WBC, you can log your A/F on a WOT blast, and then I can adjust based on that.
The other thing is, you should have not asked for a 91 octane tune, if you aren't tied to 91 octane. If you would have told me off the bat what you posted here, I would have told you that you didn't need to do that, and we could have done a nice 93 octane tune that would have been plenty safe. But that's in the past, let's just deal with what we have now.
The other thing is, you should have not asked for a 91 octane tune, if you aren't tied to 91 octane. If you would have told me off the bat what you posted here, I would have told you that you didn't need to do that, and we could have done a nice 93 octane tune that would have been plenty safe. But that's in the past, let's just deal with what we have now.
Had a similar problem with my 2000 and Sal's chip. When I put headers on (full length) my ET went uip. Worked wih Sal and finally changed the spark plugs to Denso's. Then I could do 12.6 with ET Streets and did not remove my hard bed cover. Had fun with beating a few C-5 Vettes,,,, The unmodifiel f body's would not line up to race. Could not beat the ZO6 Vettes without having to build a bullet bottom end and run more boost.. Just left it stock internally add a good tune with add ons. Now have almost 90,000 miles on the truck and still strong. Work with a tuner and think about different plugs. My 2 cents
Last edited by Masterloggie; May 30, 2005 at 01:11 AM.
Originally Posted by fast1
.....This paragraph is like a breath of fresh air. This is what I always thought!!! I know that a "custom dyno-tune" is best, but I didn't think it was necessary to run 12.8's.
Rob, sorry to hear that your "new" set-up isn't working out. I wasn't aware of this?? Last I heard, you just got it back from Sal and it was running great. I take it you took your L to the strip?? Sorry to hear about your troubles. I would be mad to!
Rob, sorry to hear that your "new" set-up isn't working out. I wasn't aware of this?? Last I heard, you just got it back from Sal and it was running great. I take it you took your L to the strip?? Sorry to hear about your troubles. I would be mad to!
As for me, dont take it wrong, THE TRUCK HAS BEEN RUNNING AMAZING since the day I picked it up. The PSP Motor is simply perfect and flawless, NOT ONE ISSUE THERE.
Ya I went to the track, and ran the usual 11.9 : o (
The prob is POWER.
I guess I just assumed adding Long Tubes, HF Cats, Cat Back, Pumps, Inj, CL Upper, 8lbs of extra boost, and a Mag would give me more than 15 HP
)$%)@#$%)@#$%#)$%&@$)@%$@&%$)@$@$%)@(&$%()@$*%@(&$ %@^$%(@#$%@()$%@($^%(@$%@)$%@$%@)$%@$%@$)@%$^@%$)@ $
NOW I HAVE TO FIND 50 HP SOMEWHERE ???
and I already know it isn't going to be cheap (^%)@$%)@$%@$
Originally Posted by Rob_02Lightning
I guess I just assumed adding Long Tubes, HF Cats, Cat Back, Pumps, Inj, CL Upper, 8lbs of extra boost, and a Mag would give me more than 15 HP
My guess is that without better flowing heads, our exhaust investment was a waste. The MP went back for a ported eaton and I now for the same price I have Denny's nitrous kit. Just installing it now, but I'm sure it will make power.-Mark
Oh it'll make power all right
WOO HOO, CONGRATS Mark....
This Mag has my stumped, I have a huge seat of the pants diff,
massive boost and low end torque, aaaaaaah and that sound.
Yet I'm not getting the extra power I expected on the Dyno ?
Yet Gator has like 140 more HP on his street tune with the heads and cams ??? (he also has a Race Tested n20 kit, once that goes on, expect some extremly low 10's from Gator, MAYBE BETTER)
I dont want to give up on it, I truly love the Mag, but we are having one hell of a time trying to get a race tune out of it. For some reason it simply will not take any timing ??? I use to run 19 for a n20 program, and 21 for a 24/7 street tune (on pump gas) For some strange reason we can not get any power out of it over 16 degrees of timing, (that right there seems to be the whole issue). My Lightning has always loved timing "and responded quite well to it HP and Tq wise, " NOT NO MORE ???
Either we'll figure it out, or I'll part it out and lose it
OR SOMETHING....
WOO HOO, CONGRATS Mark....
This Mag has my stumped, I have a huge seat of the pants diff,
massive boost and low end torque, aaaaaaah and that sound.
Yet I'm not getting the extra power I expected on the Dyno ?
Yet Gator has like 140 more HP on his street tune with the heads and cams ??? (he also has a Race Tested n20 kit, once that goes on, expect some extremly low 10's from Gator, MAYBE BETTER)
I dont want to give up on it, I truly love the Mag, but we are having one hell of a time trying to get a race tune out of it. For some reason it simply will not take any timing ??? I use to run 19 for a n20 program, and 21 for a 24/7 street tune (on pump gas) For some strange reason we can not get any power out of it over 16 degrees of timing, (that right there seems to be the whole issue). My Lightning has always loved timing "and responded quite well to it HP and Tq wise, " NOT NO MORE ???
Either we'll figure it out, or I'll part it out and lose it
OR SOMETHING....
Originally Posted by LightningTuner
From a WOT standpoint, there's really nothing I need to know from a Predator log, on your specific truck. The big thing we need is A/F numbers. Instead of spending thousands to ship the truck to me in NY (and yes, people do that)i would suggest spending $500 and ordering a wide band commander off our site. THAT is the info we need. With a WBC, you can log your A/F on a WOT blast, and then I can adjust based on that.
Originally Posted by Odin's Wrath
Sorry for the bad info. I was under the impression that the Predator gave you A/F measurements when data logging. That's the main data I would be interested in for tuning purposes. My bad. 

Originally Posted by LightningTuner
No problem Roger. On more complex trucks, Predator logs are usefull. But it doesn't read A/F, as that still requires a real wide band A/F sensor installed in the truck.
Sal, while you're on the Wideband topic.... what's your opinion on the accuracy of the WBC gauge vs. a sniffer at the dyno. I get a difference of 11.5 on the gauge and 13 w/ a sniffer at the dyno.
Originally Posted by fast1
I had a "mail order" tune from one of the "big three tuners," but it only put down 368/455 to the rear wheels. No dyno around has a air/fuel wideband. So, right now im running the 91 octane Predator tune(revised)


