jdm/kooks header install
jdm/kooks header install
Bought the JDM/Kooks full exhaust and didn't want to install it so I took it to a corvette shop by my work. He said it was the worst header install he has ever done. Nothing was lining up from the midpipes back. Had to bend all the hangers and force some of the pipes closer together from the mufflers out. Everything bolted in and the tips were too far in so they modified that.
He was saying it would have helped if they at least had some basic directions for installing the two headers as far as recommended way to insert them. It was like a big puzzle. He figured he put about 10hrs into it. I read on here were some people say they did it in 3.5hrs. Just wondering how? Maybe yours lined up better? All of the slip fit joints were too short also judging by where the clamp/hanger brackets needed to go. They wouldn't clamp on both pipes.
All said and done I am at least happy with the sound. I will try to get a vid in the next couple days. It sounds awesome. Glad I didn't install it..lol
He was saying it would have helped if they at least had some basic directions for installing the two headers as far as recommended way to insert them. It was like a big puzzle. He figured he put about 10hrs into it. I read on here were some people say they did it in 3.5hrs. Just wondering how? Maybe yours lined up better? All of the slip fit joints were too short also judging by where the clamp/hanger brackets needed to go. They wouldn't clamp on both pipes.
All said and done I am at least happy with the sound. I will try to get a vid in the next couple days. It sounds awesome. Glad I didn't install it..lol
Bummer dude! They usually send directions with thier parts. You should have called and had them send you some. As for the alignment, your the first person I heard say that. Hehe...makes me feel better that I let JDM install mine instead of laying on my back on my day off!
I asked for directions and was told the full exhaust does not include directions since it is a full replacment and it should be obvious how it goes.
Yea I haven't read of any problems either. I was there and he was showing me all the ****. I work just next door so I stopped in a couple times while it was being done.
Yea I haven't read of any problems either. I was there and he was showing me all the ****. I work just next door so I stopped in a couple times while it was being done.
wow
i've installed 3 sets and the only problem i had was on one truck, he had a muffler shop put in new mufflers before hand and they made a mess out of it so after we CUT EVERYTHING off, nothing would line up because it wasn't a lightning specific catback in the first place.
Otherwise it's cake.
Here's some directions if anyone needs them.
1)Raise vehicle, much easier if you have a lift but can be done on jackstands.
2) Remove both front tires.
3)Remove both inside fender liners.
4) Remove stock catback
5)Disconnect O2 sensors. Frtont connections are up between fire wall and engine. Can be a pain in the ***. I used a long skinny screw driver to un clip the connection then worked it it easily to get them undone.
6) Removed stock midpipes, then removed sensors from pipes. Don't mix up the front and back and don't damage them
7)Undo ground strap on passenger side.
8)Unbolt stock manifolds. Note, i have used hardware that comes with headers and have reused the studs. The stud system can be re used but there's are alot of little tricks to getting them to work. I believe the nuts on the studs were 10mm or 7/16. Then use a 4mm socket to take the studs out.
9) Removed the dipstick on the drivers side. Put something to cover the hole so nothing falls in.
10) Remove the component covered in foam (condensor or evap?)
You'll see it.
11)Clean up manifold mounting surface. I used an air operated wire bush
12) Fish passenger side header down between engine and frame. It will fit, some go in easier then others. Fasten hand tight with 2 bolts to hold in place.
13) Fish drivers side header up from underneath. again, put bolts in to hold in place.
14) Take a marker and maark the heat shield where to cut out to be able to put o2 sensors in. I used an air cut off wheel and cut it clean. Some guys used hole saws but i couldn't get the hole saw to work. Kept biting and snapping my wrist.
15) Un bolt headers and move to cut heat shields
16)Reposition headers AND GASKET and fasten to engine. NOTE. you need a 10mm wrench and a 1/4 drive 10mm swivel socket with a coulple of 1/4 extentions. The swivel socket is mandatory to save you hours
17)Bolt up high flow cats. NOTE, the hardware that comes can be brutal. They are lock nuts and once they are on, they DO NOT COME OFF. Having experience this once, i decided to used grade 8 bolts, and i used regular nuts and double nutted them. The top bolts are tough to get tools on. Use LONG extentions but it will work.
18)put mid pipes in place and leave loose.
19)Hang cat back on hangers and position on to mid pipes.
20)put clamps on loosely and positions exhaust tips as needed. Start tightening clamps from the headers and work your way back to the mufflers.......re checking the tips as you go. NOTE if you are re using the stock cat back, or reusing any cat back that was clamped, the problem is the pipes are crimped that that's why nothing is fitting right. Trust me. I headed the pipe and used a large punch to try and take the crimp out. Then used a barrel grinder to clean the inside. I'm sure there are better ways but before you go nuts trying to get the pipes on, make sure your pipes from the previous cat back aren't distorted. You also may have to bed and modify your hanger brackets to get your exhaust tips where you want them. All trucks are different. My tips were a PITA to get right. My old man's lined right up.
21)Reinstall dipstick and make sure seated correctly. Reinstal cable and other components removed except tires and fender inserts.
22)Reinstalled o2 sensors with front extention harnesses. Make sure they are tied up away from the headers. Same on the back.
23)Start truck and let run and check for leaks. After letting run and got hot, i retightened the header bolts, then rechecked them a week later. If you use the swivel socke, you can re check and tighten them without even taking the wheels off!!!!
There might be some things i missed but it's not bad. Plan on a 5 hour install. I've done it in less and the cat back night mare took all day.
The last one i did i had the headers and midpipes on in an 1 1/2.
Otherwise it's cake.
Here's some directions if anyone needs them.
1)Raise vehicle, much easier if you have a lift but can be done on jackstands.
2) Remove both front tires.
3)Remove both inside fender liners.
4) Remove stock catback
5)Disconnect O2 sensors. Frtont connections are up between fire wall and engine. Can be a pain in the ***. I used a long skinny screw driver to un clip the connection then worked it it easily to get them undone.
6) Removed stock midpipes, then removed sensors from pipes. Don't mix up the front and back and don't damage them
7)Undo ground strap on passenger side.
8)Unbolt stock manifolds. Note, i have used hardware that comes with headers and have reused the studs. The stud system can be re used but there's are alot of little tricks to getting them to work. I believe the nuts on the studs were 10mm or 7/16. Then use a 4mm socket to take the studs out.
9) Removed the dipstick on the drivers side. Put something to cover the hole so nothing falls in.
10) Remove the component covered in foam (condensor or evap?)
You'll see it.
11)Clean up manifold mounting surface. I used an air operated wire bush
12) Fish passenger side header down between engine and frame. It will fit, some go in easier then others. Fasten hand tight with 2 bolts to hold in place.
13) Fish drivers side header up from underneath. again, put bolts in to hold in place.
14) Take a marker and maark the heat shield where to cut out to be able to put o2 sensors in. I used an air cut off wheel and cut it clean. Some guys used hole saws but i couldn't get the hole saw to work. Kept biting and snapping my wrist.
15) Un bolt headers and move to cut heat shields
16)Reposition headers AND GASKET and fasten to engine. NOTE. you need a 10mm wrench and a 1/4 drive 10mm swivel socket with a coulple of 1/4 extentions. The swivel socket is mandatory to save you hours
17)Bolt up high flow cats. NOTE, the hardware that comes can be brutal. They are lock nuts and once they are on, they DO NOT COME OFF. Having experience this once, i decided to used grade 8 bolts, and i used regular nuts and double nutted them. The top bolts are tough to get tools on. Use LONG extentions but it will work.
18)put mid pipes in place and leave loose.
19)Hang cat back on hangers and position on to mid pipes.
20)put clamps on loosely and positions exhaust tips as needed. Start tightening clamps from the headers and work your way back to the mufflers.......re checking the tips as you go. NOTE if you are re using the stock cat back, or reusing any cat back that was clamped, the problem is the pipes are crimped that that's why nothing is fitting right. Trust me. I headed the pipe and used a large punch to try and take the crimp out. Then used a barrel grinder to clean the inside. I'm sure there are better ways but before you go nuts trying to get the pipes on, make sure your pipes from the previous cat back aren't distorted. You also may have to bed and modify your hanger brackets to get your exhaust tips where you want them. All trucks are different. My tips were a PITA to get right. My old man's lined right up.
21)Reinstall dipstick and make sure seated correctly. Reinstal cable and other components removed except tires and fender inserts.
22)Reinstalled o2 sensors with front extention harnesses. Make sure they are tied up away from the headers. Same on the back.
23)Start truck and let run and check for leaks. After letting run and got hot, i retightened the header bolts, then rechecked them a week later. If you use the swivel socke, you can re check and tighten them without even taking the wheels off!!!!
There might be some things i missed but it's not bad. Plan on a 5 hour install. I've done it in less and the cat back night mare took all day.
The last one i did i had the headers and midpipes on in an 1 1/2.
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Originally posted by Certified Drunk
Your first mistake was taking it to a Corvette shop!
Your first mistake was taking it to a Corvette shop!
Last edited by Fast95Z; Apr 23, 2005 at 10:54 AM.
headers
IMO the only thing a ford specific shop would have been able to do easier would be finding a way to get the damn headers in. From there on it should be easy as **** if everything lined up.
Re: headers
Originally posted by tallimeca
That's 90 percent of it. A friend of mine had a shop do his headers and it took like 10 hours. They jacked the motor up to put the headers in
That's 90 percent of it. A friend of mine had a shop do his headers and it took like 10 hours. They jacked the motor up to put the headers in


