I have a 4#lower and RWTD tune. What can I do to get into the 400/500? Maybe port the blower? Is there anything less (down time) to do....it's a daily driver. How much would a 90MM MAF do. I think I might be pegging my80MM.

 

I highly doubt your peggig the 80mm MAF!

A ported eaton will definitely get you there! Apten may have some in stock, where you leave a deposit and then they refund it upon receiving your blower. only a few hours of down time.


Full Length headers will do the trick, but they are a PITA to install.

Nitrous?

 

I-menace, what can of price would I be looking at? I have seen and read many of your post's , but this is the first one of mine that you have responded too.

Thanks!!

 

A complete Exhaust system? $1200-1500
there was a complete system on Ebay for $1500

Ported Eaton?
http://www.apten-us.com/performance/lightning/eaton.asp



Reason I say ported Eaton is that Wydopnthrtl has a 4# lower, ported Eaton, and some other bolt on mods and went 12.4
However his tune is perfect for his truck. he is around 42Xhp and 5XX Trq at the rear wheels.

 

I-menace, what about those guys like LFP that say they have two-three day turn around? I live in Texas and think the price would be a littler lower going that route. I'm not sure the $$ but I think it would be around $350 or so. Your opinions???

Thanks

 

You are most definatly pegging your 80mm maf. My truck was close to pegging with the 90mm maf with 402/509 at the wheels. I actually saw this while RWTD was dyno tuning my truck. The 90mm maf's can be has cheap on Ebay BTW.

Bob

 

Bob,

Thanks again for the input. I was told never to buy a used MAF by Mike Troyer. Any truth to this??

 

I dont see why buying a used MAF would a be problem. There are new ones on ebay also from time to time.

Bob

 

If you buy a MAF, make certain is an OEM FORD MAF!

You can go to autozone and buy cheap ones, but they will cause headaches (been there done that).

If you decide to add a 90mm MAF sensor, do NOT install it until you are on the dyno ready to be tuned. (again been there done that) I literally was yelled at by my first tuner ( www.paulshp.com ) because the 90MAF reads different than the 80mm and I was EXTREMELY lean. He said he was surprised I didn't blow it up.

So from that point on I tell everyone to spend 5 minutes and swap them out when you are going to get tuned. Now, it isn't as easy as it seems. I spent a few months and a few hundred dollars figuring out what was wrong with my car when I had Jerry from SCT re'tune my truck. (added a bunch of mods). I kept getting SES lights and various codes. Jerry travels around the USA tuning, and the local shop never passed the word to him that something was wrong with my tune. I replaced a bunch of O2's that were fine, I replaced my cats that were supposedly clogged, nope they were fine. I changed plugs, cleaned the MAF and a bunch of other things.
Swapping from a 80 to a 90mm is actually a big deal and requires someone who knows what they are doing.

SO I drove 2 days to New York and had SAL from PSP dyno tune my truck and it has been awesome!




Porting.
I choose Apten because they spent the R&D money designing the Eaton port that everyone is using. Plus there was a HUGE group purchase and I couldn't beat the price.

Pretty much all the tuners do the same thing nowadays! Just make sure when you get your Eaton back that it has OIL in it BEFORE you install it.

LFP seems respected by their customers. You hear about it when a tuner messes up. (the good thing about these boards, you know who to stay away from). I think I have a LFP changable lower pulley on my truck. (I forgot where I got it from)




One thing to keep in mind is that the Porting will lower your IAT temp reading. the extra (small) port allows more utilization of the innercooler, resulting in a lower discharge temperature. (that's a good thing).

I think Everyone has noticed an increase in Horsepower from the porting, however I have read that a few have noticed LOWER peak torque. That is not necessarily a bad thing when you think about it for 2 seconds.
I'm not interested in PEAK numbers! I want the overall curve to be higher. The more space under the curve, the more power I am making and the faster I'll be.

Think of a Heart monitor, it has Peaks and Drops. (think Honda at 9000 rpms)

Think of a Bell curve, it has a peak and is smooth. (think Lightning)

The Bell curve has more "space" under the curve on the graph and has overall more power than the peaks and drops of a heart monitor.

(kinda confusing but I think you'll get it)

 

I'd put more trust in Sal than Jerry, my personal opinion.

Jody