Same here only re-check if they were new alluminum rims thats about it tight is tight...
I never sceen a mechanic use a torque wrench...or anybody for that matter They all use an air gun with some sloppy azz socket
Hell this works for Nascar and I think those rims are pretty heavy with high heat and definatley working alot harder than a daily driver
I would put some never seize on the studs and the back plate of the rims so they don't fuse together over time (Dissimilar metals)

Slick

 

i only read 2 or 3 replies, but IMO 100 is pretty standard, never heard of 150.

 

Thanks for contributing.

 

FYI- actually its in the ford shop manual that the 12 mm is 100 ft.lbs and the 14 mm is 150 ft.lbs

The superduty tourque is at 165 ft.lbs (from prev spec of 150 ft.lbs) (the've also switched from coarse thread 14 mm to fine thread 14 mm)

Maybe Superfords can share any info he has or some other tech with access to ford shop manuals.

I just don't wish for anyone to lose a wheel from not properly tourqing their wheels.

If anyone is unsure of the proper procedure and tourque then they should phone their local dealership as the net does not always have the correct information, sometimes just opinions on what is correct.

 

HaHa. I pretty much always go by feel also. But about the 150LB comment, I torque the lug nuts on my Avalanche to that EVERY time the wheels come off. Everything else(lug nut wise) is either by feel or on steel wheels an impact gun. Torque sticks are pretty damn nice too(those fruity colored extensions some of you may see getting used). As far as no mechanic using a torque wrench ever, I hope that guy doesn't do all the work on your vehicle. -Mat-

 

I will check on the computer at work tomorrow what Ford says they should be torqued to as a double check. -Mat-

 

Watch tourque sticks - they are not highly accurate, if you have a pos impact it will undertourque but with a high tourque inpact they will overtorque.

If in a hurry i will use my 100 ft.lbs tourque stick and then manually tourque to spec when vehilce is on the ground.

 

I have a 4 way that is over sized - made for RV or something...

I twist it once good and its really close to 150 the couple times I tested it

Doug

 

I work at a tire shop.

100 ft/pds will be plenty. Always cross tork. Takes some strain off your rotors. Check after 100 km. Hell check them every once and a while. Only takes like 20 seconds. While your at it. Get a nice breaker bar and ratchet to do your spare if you ever need to. Also grab a good bottel jack. Its not that much more money and changine a flat isnt such a bitch.

Ray

 

Tork sticks work well. Mostly because they over tork them. They are color coated because you have so many different ones. U can use them but i always recheck with a wrench.

Also DO NOT go over 120 for your lightning. Your just gonna twist strech or even break. 120 if for a F350 or dually or some fullsize truck. 100 is fine for a L

Ray

 

120 is not for a 99-current superduty - even the old style 3/4 ton and 1 tons with the tapered seat nuts was 140 ft.lbs

the superduty is 165 ft.lbs - if you work at a tire shop you should check with ford as you are not tourquing them properly.

Also the 12 mm stud expeditions is 110 ft.lbs.

Studs/nuts are a wear item and do need to be replaced peridoically.

Personally if i drag raced my truck I'd probably replace the studs at least every season or more - especially if i was taking my tires on/off each time at the track.

 

I was told by my Dealer, 150ftlbs. My first rotation I did before I found out the correct number was 120. I use 120 as I never had a problem. 150 seems awful high and the lug nuts quit turning somewhere around 110.

Chris

 

SB, That's not true. Lubricating the threads will give you a more accurate torque reading, as well as preventing rusty threads. If the lugs are tightened properly, the wheels aren't going to fall off. Dry threads=bad, Lubed threads=good

SL

 

I hope you guys don't have the same disregard for torque figures when it comes time to assemble an engine or transmission....

 

Many of you are saying to torque the lugs from 80-120, while others are saying they must be torqued to 150. Does anyone who changes their own wheels actually torque them all the way to 150? Have any of you ever heard of someone having a wheel fall off? And, is anyone absolutely positive what the lugs should be torqued to? There are a lot of mixed answers on this thread.