Tim, I made no personal attacks on you! I simply re-stated what you said about loosing IQ points!!

 

Rich,

thanks for the info ... I will try to get a shot of what I did
so far tonight ... So an M12 instead of the M10 ??? That
will mean a new bracket for the slider.

fomoco ... If you can't fathom what we are discussing without
trashing someone, why not just say nothing ? My original
post was good enough for everyone that had any input on the
problem to understand, just not your nipickiness (Like your
HIGHNESS, I guess!)

I stand by my statements ... Wearing ANY harness other than
stock without a rollbar is damned dangerous. Most people
use the "harness" bars for light auto cross duty only. The HPDE
folk that cruise tracks at 140 MPH + need a bit more. And as
for your needless "dig" about my truck not being fast enough?
I think it stands for itself..... Top 100 on NLOC ...

Thanks to all the helpers here ...

Cliff

 

LOL...
I never trashed anyone there Bud!

I simply asked why the call it a harness bar if it isn't good enough to attach a harness too...it didn't make sense to me, so I asked!!

I never slammed your truck...I simply said it obviously isn't fast enough to reguire a harness and roll bar!

Don't be soo sensitive!

 

If you pull loose the cover on your seat belt from the bottom
(it just unclips) you will see how the shouldered bolt supports
it and allows it to rotate.

Here's where I'm at now ... the brass is 1/2 " diameter thick
walled sleeves. I intend that it would reduce the moment
at the bolt where it passes through the vertical piece (Pic 3)

 

SVT-KY:
To eliminate the moment and shear at the bolt, would it be possible to take a piece of hollow steel bar in a 1x2 size and cut it to the width of the harness bar mounting plate. Then drill a second hole similar to the hole you have the seat belt hole in now and bolt the bar to the mounting plate. Drill a new mounting hole on the opposite side of the bar and bolt the seat belt slider to this. This could create the offset you want and eliminate the shear on the mounting bolt. Plastic end caps could be inserted to hide the mounting bolts and square stock could be painted to match the harness bar. If this makes sense and sounds doable let us all know because I am going to mount my harness bar this spring and will have the same problem you are. Good Luck!!!

 

I was thinking about a thick, solid steel post tapped on the end.

With a good weld, how strong is a post welded to a plate versus a bolt as shown? I know that to answer the question precisely you would need to know material compositions and the like, but I'm just talking in general terms. Engineers?

 

Tim,

Maybe a post with a rear facing gusset?

 

I've not been following the details of this thread....

If this is more than a 3 point harness then M10s up in the torso area is fine. grade 9.8 or higher!

btw: We NEVER rely on a weld to take the load during a crash. Always make some sort of mechanical lock. A nut is fine, a 90 degree tab is ok too. Just never rely soley on a weld to hold the body back during a frontal crash.

Rich

 

It's ok that way. however... What most people never know is that the slower the rate of acceleration the less trama to the body. As long as the bolt is a 9.8+ and there is a solid hex flang nut or nut with washer on the back side? It'll be fine and actually the deflection of the bracket will aid in not accelerating the body so quickly.

(for all you non-techies... replace the word "acceleration" with "deceleration" and it'll make more sense)

Rich

 

That brass bushing is a very bad plan. You have created a leverage point on that bolt. The bolt needs support not tjust a sleeve. The joint is a shear strength application. If it were a tensile it could work. More than likely the extra leverage will cause the female threads to fail. It would either "jack" out the insert/nut or buckle the sheet metal around it. Of course this is from a worst case scenario stand point. But in a worst case scenario ytou dont't want this joint compromised.

 

Silver-Bolt

Naw... I don't think so Tim. As long as that joint/sleeve is undercompression from the treads and the bolt/nut is 9.8+ the bracket will deform or even yield first.

Keep in mind that the load gets spread between the other attachment points. Assuming this is a 4 point or a 5 point harness he's not even close to stripping the treads off the nut.

Rich

 

Rich,

It's the STOCK belt ... No 5 point without a rollbar for me ...

 

That's true ... The "sheet metal" is 1/4 " plate, so I doubt it would
ever fail. The bolt on the other hand ... That's why I thought
about the "collar" to provide support.

 

I wish I had a better solution for you. If I could see it in person it would be much easier. The bolt needs more support. The "bearing" surface of the bushing is too small. In the event of a hard impact my bet is the joint will fail. For me I will not compromise on safety. Assuming both sides are the same you may also be putting a passenger at risk as well.

Just a quick look at the photos I would remove the bushing, weld on a piece 1"x2" rectangle tubing (.120 wall or thicker), drill an oversized hole that will accept a bushing with the proper I.D., weld the bushing to the tubing and use that in place of you current setup. Again very hard to design from the photo but hopefully it will give you some ideas.

Then again many people are happy with "good enough". No rip intended just reaffirming my safety paranoia.

 

The "bushing/collar" should be at least 1 1/4" in diameter (1 1/2" would be better) and a backing plate of the same diameter should be on the other side. If you do the calcs with the bushing/collar added, the bolt doesn't govern the design - the steel that it's bolted to will fail first, unless you increase the diameter of the bushing/collar.

The better solution would be to drill the harness bar and weld in a sleeve. Then you could thru-bolt the belt tab directly to the bar and not worry about the belts binding.