magnum powers all the way for me

i really doubt there are any L's out there running a kenne bell only and hitting 11's

 

YA MAN

If I every had to do it over, I would DEF go straight for
the Aftermarket S/C (AND NITROUS OF COURSE)

DO IT Steve

 

I disagree - the ONLY thing the boost bypass kit does is DISABLE the stock boost bypass - There is NO way that is REQUIRED for anything. THe only thing that does is save the embarrasment of a no boost run down the track, and save abuse on the engine and blower. NOTHING else. All it does is disable the booost bypass safety circuit that Ford built in. The safety features are in my opinion worth keeping on a street truck.

FRPP Whipple is advertised as a 20% increase in power -no chip pulley or filter required. - Assuming you start at 350 stock thats 70 hp - Safe Chip, reasonable pulley and filter will NOT in most cases get you to 420. and it will cost you at least half the cost of the blower. PLUS 20% is as you said the ENTRY power level for the aftermarket blower. And with the Blower upgrade you wont be superheating the intake air by running an open filter and over spinning the eaton.

Its all in the approach you choose to take. On my old truck I spent months and many more than 4k and most of the parts didnt add crap. The throttle bodies, exhaust, filters, breathers, none of it added significant results.

 

I agree to a point with you...It's probably less hassle to do "just" a blower upgrade, even though it's more $$ than the alternatives...
Meaning, whatever you have to do to make 420 hp is still gonna be cheaper than a KB...but to each his own!!

However, I do not agree with the not having a boost bypass...I mean it's only a $2 part anyway... But, I don't see the point of adding more power and not doing the bypass?? The ECM will sense overboost and dump...at that point what is the purpose of having 420 hp???
Either you want power or you don't???

I could be wrong on this, it's that I don't know the boost pressure on that Whipple setup...if they are making 420 hp at stock boost levels and the ECM is compensating for the extra air, then fine, you are right, it does sound like the way to go...
But let's see if that actually pans out...A lot of companies make claims that don't really come true!


You have to keep in mind that as good as the whipple may be, in design it is not too radically different then other twin-screw models.
It is not a miracle blower, if an aftermarket blower designed for a stock L is gonna actually put out 420 is yet to be seen.

anyway, I don't mean to argue about, I'm just alittle skeptical I guess.

 

It baffles me how many people think the boost bypass is a "controlled" boost leak. I've NEVER had the boost dumped on my truck by the factory computer. And I'm probably at least 15 pounds boost, if not more.

 

Thats NOT what a boost bypass does - You are saying that anyone running above stock boost runs the chance of having the truck "sense" more boost and therefore dump it ...

As I understand it thats NOT what the boost dump does. It IS controlled by the PCM but it is used when the PCM in emergency under distinct conditions. In my opinion when Im pushing my truck past stock with aftermarket Boost I would rather have a slow run or 2 down the track in excahnge for safer overall function...

 

That is what i was told it worked. I remember a lot of people were having trouble with dumping boost years ago, not so much lately though...
I don't claim to be an expert on the subject and as I said I may be wrong...
Regardless of how it actually works, if it does not allow the engine to reach full boost then it should be bypassed to allow full boost...my point is, why would put a $4000 blower on a truck and then leave a device hooked up that limits the boost or whatever...it doesn't make sense??

If the boost bypass isn't needed on a truck, then why were they created???

I don't have the answer here, only questions??

I do know that my diesel does release boost when in "overboost"!

I have had that happen before.


BTW, if anyone whats to jump in and explain how it works, please do...
Comments such as "I can't believe anybody thinks that" doesn't help...for almost as many letters you could have explained it,rather than post a comment like that...

Maybe, just maybe tuners used to explain it that way to people as a sales tool?? But, that WAS once the way they were supposed to work???

 

That maybe, but with my MP my truck made 467 RW HP and 566 ft of RWT with just a 4 lb lower stock fuel system, stock cams, bassani shorties, and stock heads. The heads were ported and had bigger valves. My exhaust was a flow master 2 in 2 out with out cats.

Suavy

 

If I were to start all over from the beginning, I'd go with the KB or wait for the new 2.3 Whipple. I'd add full exhaust as well; but, only because I'm very happy with that part of what I've done with the truck. The sound was well worth the expenditure to me. I still have the stock stereo, since the real music is coming from outside the vehicle.

 

I have a few other things but the lack of conv, slicks and exhaust is saving alot more than the $1600 price difference in blowers. And I'm only having to run 15-16#'s of boost to do it. With Cold air, efan, ftvb, and Nitto's along with the KB I ran 12.02. I added a tb and ran my 11.86. I would have run quicker the next day but we were only running the 1/8 due to rain.

 

fomocofan, I just arbitrarily put ~450rwhp as _my_ own limit to what I would do before feeling uneasy about things breaking (block, trans, fuel system limitations, etc).

As I said (in this post or others), there are plenty of ways to "skin the cat" and make good power while maintaining the integrity of the stock block.

The KB and Whipple are more efficient than an Eaton, ported Eaton or MP. You can run less boost and make more power. This = a safer combination.

I could get a ported Eaton, long tubes, high flow cats (I live in a smog regulated area), and all the various "smaller mods" (e-fan, Cobra water pump), etc and spend nearly as much as a $3-4k blower upgrade. Would I make the same power? Maybe. Would it be as safe? I doubt it. A more efficient blower = more power per psi. Those who say all boost is the same (not saying you are) are wrong. Air charge temps are _critical_. A more efficient blower is safer, AND it has more potential in the future if you decide to do that other mods + turn up the boost.

 

I ran consistent mid 11's w/ a KB on my stock block for nearly a year before upgrading to a built motor(shortblock only), because I came across a "once in a lifetime" deal.

I started with the chip, pulley, and filter bit, just like most everyone else who modded an '02 and earlier L. I never ran a "boost bypass". I simply unplugged the solenoid on the driver's side of the blower, and I never once had an issue. My truck had between 200 and 300 or so 1/8 and 1/4 mile passes on it, with nary an issue. I'm not saying a boost bypass isn't a good idea, and is done easily enough. However, in my personal experience, the lack of a (mechanical) boost by-pass never caused an issue.

My best ET with the Eaton and a host of bolt-ons was a 12.37 @ 109 mph in PERFECT 50*air(which we don't get too often here in DFW). This was with a 4psi lower, factory upper, CAI, T-body, E-fan, slicks, 2400rpm converter, and Bassani Hi-flow Cat-pipe and cat-back. I saw a max of 13psi with this set-up(11-12psi on average).

Adding the KB, with a 2psi lower, and 3" upper netted 15psi on average(17psi max), on the same combination. So, with the blower spinning slower, it produced more boost. The truck responded by running consistent 11.90's and 12.0's @ 113mph in 80* weather at the TX Motorplex in Ennins. With the addition of Long Tubes, that same combo yielded a best ET of 11.64 at 117mph in 50* air.

Just stating my experience. IMHO, the KB is superior in every measure to the MP(as well it should be per $$$), and will work fantastic on a stock motor, as long as you keep the boost under 15psi, have a SAFE tune, stay out of full boost in O/D, and drive maturely. If you stray from any of those parameters, all bets are OFF! Stay within them, and you will LOVE the KB. I know I did.

I will say that the new Whipple 2.3 is supposed to be a really quality kit. You may want to hold off, and see what it brings to the table. It may be worth waiting for.

Sorry so long....

 

I do understand, and it sounds good, but...

Is the whipple rally THAT much better/different to be worth over $2,000 more than a MP??

I'm just asking...

Let's say you have an MP blower and running it at "safe" boost levels and a KB (which is was asked about in this post) at "safe" boost vs. a Whipple...

I want to see actual hp differences vs. cost differences.

Sure the concept sounds great of less boost more air...but how much do you want to pay for a concept??

Let's say the whipple makes 20 hp more than a MP running at the same boost...is it worth it???

maybe, but let's see the numbers!


Another question would be, what boost/hp does the standard pulley on the whipple produce vs. the standard pulley on the MP AND how much more boost would it take to make the MP produce as much power??

I mean if let's say the Whipple is setup for 10 psi and the MP makes the same kind of hp with 12 psi is that 2 pounds of boost "safe", I think so...Just my opinion!

I want to see some data, before I spend $2,000 + more dollars on a blower that I'm not gonna take full advantage of, but that's just me,lol!


BTW guys, I hope nobody thinks I am argueing here, some boards don't like guys that bring up these points for discussion, if anyone thinks I am of base here just let me know.

 

SLVRNBLK, I am not saying that people need to go BUY a boost bypass kit...

Weather you buy one or disconnect it, it does the same thing!

What you did was to make it not work anymore, which allows the blower to make full boost and the ECM cannot do anything about it...in essence. Which is a mod, which means that you "had" to modify your boosy bypass system inorder to run that kind of boost...

That is what I was saying, and I was under the impression that a modification was needed to run higher boost levels, however you do it.

Doug was saying that a boost bypass mod was not needed with the Whipple, I assumed that it was because the Whipple runs at a lower boost level as it comes in the kit...am I correct here??

 

I see your point, and it's well taken. It also comes down to budget. If a fella is on a tight budget, then the MP is an excellent alternative to its more expensive twin screw cousins.

However, if you're prepared to spend $3K-$4K on a blower, then you have something you can grow into as your HP appetite increases, which it almost inevitably does.