OK guys I have read alot about porting blowers and what not. There seems to be alot of old post about it. I have decided it is time for me to port my blower. With that said what have all of you guys learned from porting you own blower? I have seen about 10 different port jobs and want to know what? Where? And how much from there do I need to port it, and what is the best tool to use, or what all tools should I use doing the job? Thanks for any help guys.

 

WASP port worked for me just fine untill i went to a KB

 

DONT YOU ALREADY HAVE A 10 SECOND TRUCK???
i saw your post on nloc, i think......what kind of blower do you have?? are you just spraying with a stock eaton....

BTW: if your gonna do the porting yourself, your gonna need a machine shop, or atleast a milling machine to do the outlet port. i suppose you could do something at home with a dremel or something, but i wouldnt recommend it.

 

1. Generally, You gain HP and lose a little torque. (It appears this is the majority, however others have gained both HP and trq)

2. The I/C air discharge temperature is lower than non-ported eatons.

3. It will require a reburn of your chip (if you have one) as it will be leaner.

4. That's about it for now

 

Pick up the phone and call Apten/Stiegemeier.

Apten's website

 

not to flame Menace, but my friend jayson(chimshady1) ported his own blower and picked up 20rwhp and 20rwtq. Most do lose a little torque, but his didnt.

 

Stiegemeier is offering a special right now on SVTPERFORMANCE for i think $395.

 

If you are machanically skilled it can be done fairly easy.I self ported my eaton. On a dynojet with S.A.E. #s i went from 422 to 445 with just the exchange of the ported blower.My torque went up by 22 ft.lb.In my opinion in lenghting the hole you are releasing more of the charge off the rotors more easily and also seeing more charge across the intercooler.I took out my rotor packs and covered my holes for my bearings with duct tape.I then marked out my blower and drilled a starter hole on each of my corners to be cut.Carefully applying wd40 to keep things cool during the process.I then used a jig saw to cut from hole to hole again using oil to keep thins cool.Heat is a major issue hear i believe due to the tight tolerances.After my cuts were done i used a dremel to angle and smooth all my cuts.The intake side i had previously port matched and ported to my plenum. Total cost=$3.00 for one new jigsaw blade.

 

Yeah I do have a 10 but just barley. And yes I'm just spraying on a stock eaton and a stock plenum. I will have to figure out what to do with the plenum but I think I may just run the stock one until I have the money to buy that new one out.

And thanks for all the help guys I have learned alot really fast due to you guys. Thanks again.

Now someone tell me what not to do so I can be better informed.