Well after this past weekend I am really excited about how great these trucks are and want to take mine to the next level.

I dyno'd 400/500 last Friday and the truck nearly ran a 7.xx in the 1/8 mile on Sunday. I know low 8's are not amazing buy any standard but it was 80+ degrees and there was a good bit of humidity. I was at at full weight (less hitch only) on drag radials. The truck has 7 second (mid 12's) potential I would think

I have been on cloud nine and just grinning for a few days now but I am wanting to run faster. However I am having a hard time deciding on how I want to accomplish my goals and still drive the truck daily while keeping the stock rods in her. I do drive the truck daily because I want to not because I have to, so if it decides to let go I will build the motor but would rather not spend that coin at this moment and take my chances. I believe with a good tune and seeing what others have accomplished (cough Casey cough) has given me confidence in the motor to handle 500/600 and run in the 11's.

My goals are to run 7.40 - 7.50 consistently in the 1/8 mile with should net me an easy 11 second 1/4 mile. My truck has the following performance and monitoring mods.

6lb lower stock upper 14.5 psi
Predator - dyno tuned by RWTD.
Tr6's
C&L inlet
REM intake
Dynatechs with cats
Magnaflow cat back
Nitto drag radials
FTVB
Wide band in the truck all the time.
Boost - FP - Water temp gauges
Metco billet idlers / gator back belt
Cleaned intercooler and PCV mod - (no oil)

The tune is real conservative with 16deg of timing and A/F in the mid 11's going 11.8 on top. I have been driving blown and turbo cars for nearly ten years straight and understand that the tune is everything when pushing it. I have set aside about 5K (max) to get truck making the power I want but I would like your opinions!!!

First scenario :

1. Efan
2. Apten port and drop to 4lb lower
3. racetested progressive nitrous kit (75 shot) - track mainly
4. LFP traction bars.
5. drag rims and slicks
6. drive shaft loop
7. drop weight (spare - jack ect)
8. retune

Second scenario :

1. Efan
2. KB at 16psi
3. SCT maf and 50lb injectors
4. LFP traction bars
5. Drag rims and slicks
6. drive shaft loop
7. drop weight (spare - jack ect)
8. retune

Any thoughts?

Bob

 

go route 2

ive done 1 now trying 2

 

Route 1-

Racetested progressive systems seems to be just what your looking for according to what you wrote.

Fast at the track , but reliable to drive around.

2 things about the KB and a stcok block I do not like. First is the constant temptation to get into the boost more then you should and a nice cool night were you get in it and that dreaede detonation occurs. Second is the constant abuse on the tranny.

At least with the race tested kit w/ the progessive systems you have many choices of how you want to run nitrous. 100% all the time or leave at 80% and then 100% or whatever you want.

then when your not at the track you still have a fast reliable daily driver.

VINNIE

 

I'd have to agree with V

And for good logical reasons:
And mine have always been simply this, why put the extra stress and cylinder pressure through the stock block 24/7, when your not going to use it 99% of the time anyway on the street.
I find a mid 12 sec daily driver is MORE than enough to win pretty much 100% of the street races I run into, and then on track day you simply hit a switch, and WAM take another second off.
(any only put the xtra stess on it for 11-12 sec, a few times a yr)
Plus with the RT Kit, you truly can use it on the street 24/7 in a very safe manner, using a min amount of n20, and giving you all the power you can possibaly ask for BUT ONLY WHEN NEEDED.
You would be amazed on how little n20 you can use and still add
PLENTY of power when spraying on the street with the RT System and Control. You can truly dial in your desired HP.

A KB is Def the schitt, and will DEF mean some of the other upgrades as you listed, Injectors, Maf, possible Pump Upgrade etc..... And although Yes this will bring you your 11 sec passes, it will also be putting the STOCK Motor under MUCH MORE stress EVERYTIME you WOT it, (not just a few times a year)

Now don't get me wrong, once I'm built motor, I would Love to run Both, but while still Stock, I feel MUCH MORE at ease only using the extra HP WHEN NEEDED, and not everytime I stomp it.

I had a Dyno of 501/615 with 25 less N20 HP than I currently run, so at this exact moment I'm pushing prob @ 525/640 on the stock Block, and feel much at ease doing it ONLY when spraying, and NOT everytime I decide to have a little fun on the street.

 

Ok thanks for the input, I will think about it.

I have got to much going on right now with work to worry about the truck. It should be easing up by late December and I will make the decision on what to do.

Bob

 

Bob, spray that pig and be done.

Just my opinion.
Joe

 

How about both

 

No question

KB it.


Have the power all the time. Run 14 lbs boost on the street,

totally safe and then switch out pulleys for more at the track.

Every time I dip into the throttle, I break out in a huge grin. My

only regret with the KB is that I didn't do it sooner.

 

KB. with meter and pumps you won't have a problem til past 500 at the wheels. I use the same tune all the time whether I'm at the track or on the street. 30* or 98*. Never have any detonation.

 

Do you guys scan for KR (knock retard) like with the Supercharged 3800 Wbodies?

 

Both

 

Lightnings don't have factory Knock sensors.

 

Yes they do... pull the lower intake and look in the valley of the motor.

 

It's there; just not turned on.

 

Damn, no knock sensors?

That sucks. I own a 98 Regal GS, and thats what he use to check and see if we can drop a pulley size or not. Required for a step down from 3.8" to 3.4" would be an intake, autolite 104 plugs (or another colder range plug) and 180* tstat. Usually the ubend removed from the exhaust also.

We need supporting mods to step down.